Convertible Cutting/Welding Table

[BukitCase]

Pat, you shouldn't have had a lift-off under those conditions; I bought mine (same model 917) partly BECAUSE it was heavier than others - my reasoning was that for drilling horizontal parts, the stronger magnets should hold better on thinner stock - so far I've successfully drilled 5/8 holes in steel as thin as .125" with no lift-offs. I hardly ever use mine on vertical pieces. I'm wondering if you either "leaned into it" a bit more than necessary, had a small "bb" under the magnet, or??? I've drilled .120" wall 2" tubing with the drill sitting right on the tube, no "magnetic amplifier", still no problems.

I DID take a 12" long cutoff of 1/2"x 4" wide FB and drill a 1-1/2" hole near one end, so I could clamp THAT to thinner stock and get better holding, but I've only used it a couple times.

" If I can make a table that is completely rigid and designed to minimize the hassle of positioning and clamping"

Gee, I wonder where I heard THAT before - Oh, right; it wuz IN MY HEAD :laughing:

Twist drills - my "kit" included the same adapter, but (knowing my patience level when I'm in "git-r-done" mode), I decided I didn't wanna dis-assemble half the dang drill just for a couple holes, then hafta put it BACK - so I ordered these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069LGEO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIHS0XQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The GOOD news - those let you just install the 3-jaw like it was another annular cutter -
The BAD news - makes the twist drill need a taller, more ADJUSTABLE table for the mag drill, and I haven't found that "round tuit" just yet

That's why I'm still looking for a table top DP with a dead motor; once that happens, it'll get integrated to the existing "MDVT/dual vise/XY table with integrated mini-jib crane" thingy :laughing:

I also saved a piece of 3/4x3 FB, long enough to make a "diving board" for mounting the mag drill to the existing reinforced C channel top, but haven't figgered out a slick way of making it height adjustable - also, that'd require that I replace those two allthread supports on the rear with THRU the table ones (and extra lock nuts) so the vise table doesn't wanna lift off EITHER

Glad you liked the dual vise idea, it does help in some uses - with mine being on that xy table, I found out early on that the two vises MUST be mounted so their FIXED jaws are parallel to the table travel, or you can make some really weird "jack stands" - easiest way I've found to do that so far involves a straight piece of stock clamped in both vises (but slightly loose mounting bolts into the dovetails on the table) - then a few trips along the table's X axis while measuring to a fixed point alongside, combined with slightly snug mounting bolts and a small hammer, then tighten up the mounting bolts and NEVER take the vises off once they're "calibrated".

Gotta go, I think it ALMOST warmed up enough to work on my little Toyota ...Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

It could be "leaned into it" was a factor. :confused3:

 

[Big Barn]

.

Twist drills - my "kit" included the same adapter, but (knowing my patience level when I'm in "git-r-done" mode), I decided I didn't wanna dis-assemble half the dang drill just for a couple holes, then hafta put it BACK - so I ordered these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00069LGEO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIHS0XQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The GOOD news - those let you just install the 3-jaw like it was another annular cutter -
The BAD news - makes the twist drill need a taller, more ADJUSTABLE table for the mag drill, and I haven't found that "round tuit" just yet

...Steve

OR explain to MRS Bukit how much more quality time you two could have together if you had a DEDICATED mag drill with the Jacobs chuck attached.

 

[Big Barn]

It could be "leaned into it" was a factor. :confused3:

The GOOD news is you don’t know your own strength.

 

[BukitCase]

Maybe - being a musician, I probably tend to listen to "pitch" a bit more than some; so especially if I'm trying to "get away with" something (like thinner than recommended, etc) I "tune in" to the pitch of the drill motor, then "lean into it" just enough to drop the pitch a bit less than a "half tone" - IOW, if it starts (un-loaded) at "F sharp", I'll lean til it's ALMOST down to "F",,,

That's worked so far, but truth be told I've probably just been LUCKY and really SHOULD use that clamp-on plate I made more often than I do... Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

After seeing BB's nice Makita saw table I thought I needed to pull up my socks at least somewhat. So invested in some DupliColor Machinery Gray. Also added a small fence at the back, to keep rogue chips in the table.

I meant to mention before, there is a second thing that can lead to a slanting cut. There is a build up of hard black gunk between the saw blade and the inner and outer flanges. How it gets there I have no idea. But eventually it makes for vibration and inaccurate cuts. A bit of emery cloth takes it right off and all is OK for months at a time.

 

[Big Barn]

Interesting about the “black gunk”. I’ll have to check my blade occasionally.

The table looks awesome. I like the gray paint.