confused

[PA hayseed]

Read several threads here, which sometimes break into a GM vs. Ford vs. toyota vs. dodge discussion. I am sure some knowledgeable poster can answer this simple question.

2008 2500HD 4x4 (gasser) with 3.73 gears - what can it tow?

Got a real good deal on this truck, will only tow maybe two times per month. Towing dk45 filled rears, loader, and maybe an implement (PHD or BB). Been saving my nickles for an 18ft appalachian trailer (10K didn't want 7k version) which weighs in the neighborhood of 2k. I figure the trailer weight with the tractor loader and implement weight will top 7k.

Second question, truck has tow package, looking at aftermarket brake controller. Question: is the stock hitch good enough? Once again, only towing about 2 times a month, short distances no longer than 40 miles. Will be climbing at least two hills (mountains in PA terms, hills in colorado terms, bumps in Himalayan terms) .

For those who need to know such things, I could not justify the increase in price for the diesel for the little use it will really get. The truck runs fine enough with about a ton and a half in the bed up and down the mountains. It has already hauled it's fair share of topsoil and gravel, and wood pellets.

 

[doall]

Your truck should do just fine towing that load. As far as the hitch read on it what its cap. is. tongue weight and towing weight. Would definitely ad brake controller.

 

[MaJYk]

Stock hitch, and trucks ability will be plenty for what you described, make sure your drawbar and ball are also rated for 10k loads.
If you're new to brake controllers, i recommend you get one that automatically adjusts and that will be "plug and play", simply plugs in under the dash as opposed to older trucks requiring they be wired up. Look in ur manual, I think there's a fuse in the under hood panel that needs to be moved, added or removed for it to work.

 

[timswi]

What engine do you have?

Everything else you mentioned should be just fine. Do check the hitch, ball and drawbar for weight ratings.

You can get a nice controller from pep Boys for around $130. You can get the manufacturer harness to plug it into the harness. hardest part is finding somewhere to mount it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Ok, we know its a 6.0 2500 4x4 HD with 3.73 gears. What cab and bed does it have? I have a book that list all tow ratings for every truck and SUV made in the last 10 years. Give me that info and I can look it up but I can tell you the range is 9,600# to 10,200# just making a quick glance at the 2008 model year.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

What engine do you have?

Everything else you mentioned should be just fine. Do check the hitch, ball and drawbar for weight ratings.

You can get a nice controller from pep Boys for around $130. You can get the manufacturer harness to plug it into the harness. hardest part is finding somewhere to mount it.

He has the 6.0. They canned the 8.1 a few years prior. The truck should do everything he needs it to do but much more weight and the 4.10 gears would be much nicer.

Good advise on the draw bar and ball. Its often overlooked. My uncle broke one and I have bent them before.

Any brake controller will do what you need. I buy all my stuff from these folks. Best in the business and can get you everything you need to hook it up correctly.

http://www.randpcarriages.com/

Chris

 

[timswi]

He has the 6.0. They canned the 8.1 a few years prior. The truck should do everything he needs it to do but much more weight and the 4.10 gears would be much nicer.

Good advise on the draw bar and ball. Its often overlooked. My uncle broke one and I have bent them before.

Any brake controller will do what you need. I buy all my stuff from these folks. Best in the business and can get you everything you need to hook it up correctly.

R and P Carriages Trailer Sales, Service, Parts and Rentals

Chris

Agreed that 4:10's would be better. For what he's talking about (limited use) he should still be fine. I assumed the 6.0, just confirming.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Agreed that 4:10's would be better. For what he's talking about (limited use) he should still be fine. I assumed the 6.0, just confirming.

I agree. For his current weight towing the 3.73 gear is fine. Any heavier and the 4.10 would be nice.

Chris

 

[jcmseven]

Didn't the 2008 2500 come with integrated TBC??? I know it was and is an option, but I have never seen a 2500 ordered without it. Also, assuming the rear hitch is the same as the one on my 2500 diesel GMC (2009), it should be rated for 13K without a weight distributing hitch. It is tough to find this on the hitch; on mine it is in little stamped print on the bottom of the hitch receiver.

John M

 

[HHR]

Didn't the 2008 2500 come with integrated TBC??? I know it was and is an option, but I have never seen a 2500 ordered without it. Also, assuming the rear hitch is the same as the one on my 2500 diesel GMC (2009), it should be rated for 13K without a weight distributing hitch. It is tough to find this on the hitch; on mine it is in little stamped print on the bottom of the hitch receiver.

John M

The 2007.5 to 2010 hitch on the 3/4 ton is rated 13K WITH a weight distributing hitch.
About half that without the WD setup.

 

[RobertN]

The other thing I find is worth a close look, is the ball and receiver insert.

I have noticed, that the rating of the ball, and the receiver insert, can be all over the place. It is really easy to grab one off the shelf, and then find that while you may have a 5, 7, maybe even 10klb frame mount receiver, the ball/receiver insert might be 3.5, or 5klb rated.

Kragens/Checker had a receiver insert that had enough drop to match up nicely with my utility trailer. I just grabbed it off the shelf, and a ball. Turns out, it is really rated low. The utility trailer only weighs 2500lbs loaded(GVWR). So, it is not a big deal. I do not tow my flatbed with the tractor using that ball/hitch.

Good advise on the draw bar and ball. Its often overlooked. My uncle broke one and I have bent them before.

 

[PA hayseed]

Yes, I have a 6.0 engine. The truck is a crew cab regular bed.

The truck was a deal because it wasn't a diesel (add 6k onto the price), and didn't have some other gadgets I didn't care for (sliding rear window or sunroof/moonroof). My truck did not come with the built in brake controller, but my buddies did.

I talked to the GM guys about a WD system, and they recommended it. Didn't know if it made a bit of difference with it being GM or some third party manufacturer. I am sure that, like everything else, there are differences. I am not very knowledgeable about these. I just wanna tow my tractor a couple of places, as driving down the road is ok in nice weather but takes forever to get anywhere. I would also like to haul my pellets and topsoil by the trailer load instead of the bed load.

For those who need to know, I couldn't get 4.10 gears on the 2500's they had in a gasser (I am sure I could have ordered it in). my sticker on this truck was 40k new, and I got it for about 29. I managed to get two dealers to fight over selling me a truck (think two years ago when noone was buying trucks with gas about 4 a gallon). I can live without the diesel, and for the little towing I plan on doing, I figured the 3.73 would be fine. I got rid of my old 1/2 ton, because I knew it would never haul my stuff AND be legal. I have bad luck, I WOULD get caught. This truck, at the price and trade in I got, seemed to fit my needs. If only it got better gas mileage when empty.

I'm guessing with a WD system I should be legal. I am not sure and have looked around alot for this info.

Any help would be great.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The 2007.5 to 2010 hitch on the 3/4 ton is rated 13K WITH a weight distributing hitch.
About half that without the WD setup.

That is the hitch rating only, not what the truck can tow. In this case due to the 3.73 gears and gas engine its about 3,000# less than that.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

OK, with all the info I have on your truck now, 2008 4x4 Crew Cab Reg Bed and the 6.0 gas engine with 3.73 gears, according to my towing book the max tow rating is 9,900#.

It should do all you need it to do just fine.

As for the WD hitch I provided a link to R&P Carriages. Call them and talk to Robbin or Paul and they can get you a good quality WD setup, brake controller, and the proper wiring harness plus instructions to install it yourself. They are good people. Do not forget to ask for what is called the Maxi-Fuse. It must be purchased and installed in the GM fuse box to allow your truck to charge the battery on your trailer for either dump function or just the electric brakes.

Chris

 

[PA hayseed]

OK, with all the info I have on your truck now, 2008 4x4 Crew Cab Reg Bed and the 6.0 gas engine with 3.73 gears, according to my towing book the max tow rating is 9,900#.

It should do all you need it to do just fine.

As for the WD hitch I provided a link to R&P Carriages. Call them and talk to Robbin or Paul and they can get you a good quality WD setup, brake controller, and the proper wiring harness plus instructions to install it yourself. They are good people. Do not forget to ask for what is called the Maxi-Fuse. It must be purchased and installed in the GM fuse box to allow your truck to charge the battery on your trailer for either dump function or just the electric brakes.

Chris

Thanks a lot, it helped.

 

[hawkeye08]

I recommend the Tekonsha P3 brake controller, it is easy to setup and use (if your truck does not have the integrated brake controller). If I recall, you will need to splice it in (take your time and solder the connections, then shrink wrap). It only takes about 30 minutes to install. You will probably need to connect the wires under the hood (one to stud for charging battery on trailer, one for powering the electric brakes and add the fuse if it needs it).

WDH (weight distribution hitch) are fairly easy to install and setup.

I got my controller and WDH from Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924, they have good prices, free shipping (when over dollar amount) and helpful folks if you have a question.

Article covering how to install brake controller (what you will need to do depends on what your truck has).
Brake Controller Installation on a 2008 GMC Sierra and Chevy Silverado | etrailer.com

 

[timswi]

I recommend the Tekonsha P3 brake controller, it is easy to setup and use (if your truck does not have the integrated brake controller). If I recall, you will need to splice it in (take your time and solder the connections, then shrink wrap). It only takes about 30 minutes to install. You will probably need to connect the wires under the hood (one to stud for charging battery on trailer, one for powering the electric brakes and add the fuse if it needs it).

WDH (weight distribution hitch) are fairly easy to install and setup.

I got my controller and WDH from Trailer hitch, hitches and bike rack (800)298-8924, they have good prices, free shipping (when over dollar amount) and helpful folks if you have a question.

Article covering how to install brake controller (what you will need to do depends on what your truck has).
Brake Controller Installation on a 2008 GMC Sierra and Chevy Silverado | etrailer.com

With the harness connector, you don't need to do any soldering or shrink wrapping...Just plug it in under the brake pedal. Doesn't get any easier than that.

 

[Diamondpilot]

With the harness connector, you don't need to do any soldering or shrink wrapping...Just plug it in under the brake pedal. Doesn't get any easier than that.

Not that easy on newer GM products. They took a step backwards on then new body styles and do not have a plug in adapter. It just has wires bunched up under the dash and then again under the hood, usually near the master cylinder. You must get a metric nut sometimes to make the connection in the power box(fuse box) to get the power to the controller and the rear 7 pin plug for battery charging. A sure step backwards for GM. Probably save $.07 per truck.

Take a look at my link below and the link posted above to get the skinny.

2007 GM Trailer Brake Controller install

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

gotta love it...

soundguy