Cold TC45D

[Anonymous Poster]

New Holland has told dealers to cure the cold running problem on the class III tractor by installing a valve as yours did. The problem is that the drain hose acts as a bypass (not designed to) for the thermostat and allows the antifreeze to start circulating with out the engine warming up.

 

[JJones]

Well I have now bought two B&S Fuel Shutoff valves (PN 493961). Both have leaked. I finally just plugged both hoses and the tractor warms up nice to normal temp. I maybe wrong but I swear this tractor has a lot more power at the correct temp.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I have the cold engine problem in my new TC-45 with about 30 hours and have arranged for the dealer to make the fix. My question is this -- does anybody know how running cold for the first 30 hours affects the normal break-in process? Is there anything I should do differently during break-in?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color=blue>...anybody know how running cold for the first 30 hours affects the normal break-in process?...</font color=blue>

Now... you'll have a beautiful cold-blooded tractor... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[ForceTen]

My brand new TC35D...

I was reading this thread, and decided to check out my TC35D, which was built on 09/19/01 - 09/21/01, and it does NOT have a shut-off in the line. FYI to all Class III boomers buyers out there - it looks like this is STILL not being incorporated at the factory. Does anyone know of a good place to get the B&S in-line valve? And a part number?

Thanks!



There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.

 

[djradz]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

The B&S valve that I have seen is a little too small for the 5/16" hose on the coolant line, but I guess some have got it to work. Also, the valve is plastic, not suitalbe for pressure and I think with continue use may fail. Instead I used a small 1/4" brass ball valve with 1/4" threaded x 5/16" brass barbed fittings. It's a little larger but there's no chance of failure as it's suitable for the temperature, pressure and coolant chemicals. Bought both from McMaster-Carr Online.

 

[dieselpwr]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

You don't want to use the B&S valve. Make sure you find a valve rated for the temp & pressure. The plastic B&S valve the dealer installed in mine failed... Not a good thing & now they won't stand behind their solution. /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif

 

[ForceTen]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Thanks, guys - looks like this weekend's project!

There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.

 

[kcbarnes]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

I went the same way as djradz did and just fixed my TC40D with a ball valve and barb fittings bought from McMaster-carr online. It seems to work good. the parts I used were:4912 k47 ball valve and a pack of 5346 k16 hose barbs. Total cost with shipping, 13.64 plus the clamps I had on hand already.

 

[Fullthrottle]

Does anyone know if the Plain TC45 models have the too cool problem? The plain janes don't have a temp gauge. Mine has a drain valve where you guys installed the ball valve. I'm concerned because the owners manual says running too cool will cause engine damage.

 

[ForceTen]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

I have also modded my tractor - no more cold problems. Ordered the valve and barb fittings from McMaster, they were here in two days. That's service!

There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.

 

[ForceTen]

My understanding is that al the Class III boomers do. Mine was newly constructed in September, and came with only a drain valve. I installed my shut off valve in between the drain valve ans the radiator.

There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.

 

[mikim]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Do you think that here in Texas --or in Ga for that matter - that we need to worry about a cold engine? I can understand it for in the snow country but I haven't seen so much as a hard freeze in 4 years. This whole discussion of a cold engine makes me wish I had a temp gauge on my 45 (non-D). I'm really hoping that the only time the motor doesn't get to operating temp is in weather colder than 30 deg.
mike

 

[mikim]

oops --- BTW steve --- got that model # for the woods 60" toothbar and answered you on the other post -- CETB600
mike

 

[jinman]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Mike, this summer in N. TX, I noticed my temperature on my TC45D was in the lower normal zone, but the last couple of uses it has been below that zone, so I am going to add the cutoff valve. I work my tractor hard, so if it doesn't heat up, I can't imagine anyone could get it too hot. Also, I can't believe that you non "D" types don't have a temperature gage. I can't imagine running any water cooled engine without a gage or at least "idiot" lights. Do you have any indication? /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

JimI

 

[mikim]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

yeah.... "idiot" lights are well named ain't they? That's it - a light to tell me when it's too late - I've over heated. I think I'll look into getting a gauge. I have an empty area where it sits on the D models - dontcha think I oughta be able to install one? Maybe if I ordered a gauge and sending unit that goes in a D ? I do worry about it 'cause I've had the hose that goes to the drain get snagged on brush and torn off - water was running out when the wife noticed it. I've since put on a skid plate to keep it from happening - or help - but would just as soon get rid of the problem all together. I was thinkin' of just removing the bypass hoses and pluggin' at each end - radiator and block. But in such a way that I could still drain the system by unplugging both -- or just remove the bottom radiator hose? still need a gauge tho'
mike

 

[ForceTen]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Mike,

My father-in-law is a diesel mechanic, and he says that for optimum life, the tractor should only be worked heavy when it is properly warmed (he stated it should be at or near the bottom of the green before heavy loads are applied). I have noticed that my tractor was only getting into the bottom of the green when I was working it hard. Now, it gets into the middel and stays within the green consitantly. Yay! Also, thanks for the toothbar part number: My dealer didn't have much of a clue, and I am going the custom route. I'm also thinking about adding beefy cutting edges to both sides of the bucket, all the way to the top, as I am bending the sides of the bjucket when side cutting. I'll post pictures of it when I get done...

Steve

There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are very, very few old bold pilots. And they get scarcer every day.

 

[jinman]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

Well, at least you do have "I"-lights. I think you should be able to order the temperature gage, but I think I would first to check out a standard gage from Tractor Suppy. The sending unit always comes with these gages and if it will fit into your block I bet it would be much cheaper. Oh well, maybe the "official" gage doesn't cost too much. Doesn't it irritate you that they call such a thing "deluxe"? It seems that a temperature gage is much more important than lights, but then I hardly ever do any night work and there are probably plenty of folks who would disagree. Bottom line...you need both, I guess. I'm sure glad I got all the "deee-lux" stuff with mine.

JimI

 

[mikim]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

I had to remove the tail lights that came on it or the branches would've - and my fel blocks the headlights - but I don't work after dark either - I've generally had a full day by then anyway so I would most certainly swap lights for a full compliment of gauges. I wanted the deluxe stuff but with a standard tranny -- didn't work that way --
mike

 

[mikim]

Re: My brand new TC35D...

kc -
The hoses on my TC45 run at the same place as in your pic ... where you put that valve ...which is exactly where the brush caught and ripped the hose off the drain valve one time - I am so thankful my wife was there to notice it.
Instead of putting in a valve and then turning it off... does anyone think it would hurt to just remove the bypass entirely?
mike