CK30 sticky throttle

[Duckdogs]

It seems like I read about this but now can't find it. The throttle does not move smoothly away from idle. Fact is, it sticks and requires force. as a consequence it jumps from idle to 2000 or higher. Not at all smooth. Is there some adjustment to the tension ?

 

[VictorW]

Mine was a little stiff but doesn't sound as bad as yours. If you look under the dash on the righth side, you'll see the rest of the throttle rod. There's nuts to loosen and adjust the tension but I didn't have anything that would get into the small space. If I remember right, it was a double nutted affair. Maybe one of the dealers might have the trick. I just lubed up the friction points on the rod with some spray lithium grease and used a cable grease adapter that I had for motorcycle cables and lubed the entire cable from the injector side. Mine still has tension but is nice and smooth acting and doesn't creep from vibration or use.

 

[Highbeam]

Mine is sticky too and has been getting worse with time. I like to warm up at half of pto speed and I find it difficult to get to a particular RPM without overshooting and the undershooting. I just lubed the HST pivot, should have remembered to hit the friction parts of the throttle.

 

[Kiohio]

Work it back and forth a bit if it is still sticky, you can back off the friction nut or lube it a little.
When they set they tend to rust a little under the friction washer.
If you back it off too far it won't hold it at the correct RPM and will slowly return to idle.

KO

 

[WeldonEquip]

As others have mentioned, you can adjust the tension by backing off the 2 nuts on the tension point. But it is difficult to get to without loosening the plastic cover around the dash. Begin by removing the four studs from the plastic panel under the steering wheel and removing the panel. Then there are 6 or 8 studs holding the plastic dash cover in place. Once you have the dash cover loose but not taken off entirely, you have just enough room to get to the two nuts. Once adjusted to the proper tension, the second nut is a jam nut to keep the first nut from creeping. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Kiohio]

My wife has small hands!
My girlfriends hands are even smaller!
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

KO

 

[MotorSeven]

DD,

Before i took the dash apart, i would grease the pivot points and cable. My tractor new wouldn't hold rpm due to loose throttle nuts so i took it apart and tighened them. And that was much more frustrating than having to sometimes use 2 hands to "set" the throttle, which is what i do now. I find the throttle lever to be at an odd ergonomic angle and would much prefer an up & down lever like i had on my old Yanmar. I am getting used to it, so it may just be the fact that it is new.

RD

 

[wallace]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My wife has small hands!
My girlfriends hands are even smaller!
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

KO )</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Batche33]

Hope your wife doesn't check out this site /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[VictorW]

Your girlfriend's hands might just work. I hope you have a small wrench for her to use. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Highbeam]

Let me offer a trick I discovered for lubing your throttle. You can easily pop off the little boot on the dash that covers the joint where the throttle lever enters the dash. The boot uncovers a rather large hole, large enough to allow you to shoot lube on all the necessary parts from above. I also shot some from below but found it very difficult to work down there.

My throttle is smooth like new now. I only used wd-40 so I may need to do it again sometime but it is no sweat from above.

 

[Steverino]

Highbeam, You always have the best ideas. I have been reading all about the sticking throttle and went to the storage shelter to check on mine and sure enough it will barley move. So I was just thinking about trying to spray some WD40 up there and I see your post. Thanks for all your contributions, they are very helpful! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[DAVE9FL]

I have found that spray delayed viscousity grease is the best.

I sell the stuff and farmers, oh heck everyone, love it.

Unlike WD that goes away real quick it penetrates and stays once it thickens.

Dave

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I have found that spray delayed viscousity grease is the best.

I sell the stuff and farmers, oh heck everyone, love it.

Unlike WD that goes away real quick it penetrates and stays once it thickens. )</font>
I agree. The WD 40 doesn't last very long. I use the spray white lithium grease that goes on easy and thickens to the proper viscosity, and stays on a long time. Don't put it on your electronic contacts though, you need the dielectric grease for those areas.
John

 

[sodamo]

Update.

I've not applied any of the "fixes". Here is what I've observed. My throttle does NOT stick IF I don't lower the RPMs under 1200 (approx), but will stick even time I go 1000 or less. Today, I wanted to attempt a bit more hydraulic pressure to curl my pallet forks and thought I might mometarily raise the RPM's pass the PTO red line. I felt the throttle stick about 2800. So my guess is the sticking throttle is perhaps a feature to keep us from too low or too high RPMs. Just my casual, non engineer observations /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

David

 

[Noodlearm]

I have the exact opposite problem. The throttle won't stick at anything over 1800 or so RPM's, it just keeps falling down to that range. I just use a bungee for now but I may try to remove the plastic and tighten it up now that I know.

 

[MotorSeven]

Noodle,

Take it apart and tighten it up, only took about 15 min, and man what a difference! You will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.......

RD