Choosing my First Tractor

[Karnawgie]

Over time I'm running into more and more situations I'd like to have a tractor. Since I am currently buying a new home with 4 acres and want to maintain and grow a small homestead, it's time.

I first fell in love with the older sub compact b6 7 8000 tractors with a fel. As i do more research and hear more things, people say do not under buy and go a size up from what you want.

I'd like a good all around compact tractor. Id like to do things like pull cars and trailers around, some grading and leveling, move brush, pulling engines, use some other implements.

I believe a sub compact could do most of these things but if I'm gonna buy one and keep it for a long time... might as well make sure it's up to the task.

I like older tractors, cheaper, I see plenty, and I don't mind a repair here and there. I'd like something that can work in tighter spaces, a big plus of the b series to me.

I've been watching marketplace and Craigslist for some time. New, and old, it seems hard to judge the sizes between the many models. Not to mention hp, fel and rear loader capacities, 2wd vs 4wd, power steering? Tractor data is a useful resource, and I'd like to go look at some but don't wanna be a tire kicker.

I see L175, 185, 245 are common and there are so many models in general. I'd like a 4wd model with a fel and ofcouse rear 3pt and pto. Budget 10k max. Wanna be educated and decisive. I like imports, leaning orange.

Can someone just drop some knowledge on me? Do smaller L series numbers inherently mean smaller? How do some of these newer and older series compare? Are there any resources that could shared with me? Located in NC.

 

[Roadworthy]

The B and the L series are frame sizes. The numbers are related to horsepower. Tractor Data is a big help. Avoid older "gray market" tractors, parts can be hard to come by. If you'll ever need a loader look only at tractors with loaders. It will be expensive to add one later and possibly difficult, too. Be aware that two wheel drive is one wheel drive until you engage the differential lock - that makes a big difference, almost as good as four wheel drive which also must be engaged, it's not full time. Check the hour meter when comparing tractors.

 

[airbiscuit]

The only Kubota I ever heard should be avoided was the B3350 (dud emissions system). It will take you a bit of time to find a CUT and loader for less than $10k, but it can be done. The search will help educate you as to models and features.

 

[JasperFrank]

Tell us a little more about your land. Soil Type, Topography, Climate, etc. How much of the 4 acres are you going to mow? How big of a food plot do you want to create and cultivate? Whats the heaviest thing you want to lift with the FEL, or drag?
10K is a bit on the low side, for a functional SCUT with an FEL. 15K and you'll have many more options and newer tractors to consider.
I'm not in the camp that says buy the biggest tractor you can afford.
Once you have three or four that fit your needs, then look up availability of parts. You might just find one of those in your three or four, have parts you can't get anymore. The seller already knows this, and that's why it is being sold cheap.

 

[WinterDeere]

Buying "up a size" is usually good advice, many here end up looking to upgrade after their initial purchase. But on the flip side, many here also realize how much they learned without killing themselves or their wallet on a smaller machine, before upgrading with better experience and knowledge.

You will almost never lose money on a used tractor. In fact, I have resold every tractor I've ever bought for more than the original purchase price. I mention this because, if buying used, there's much less importance in getting the machine size right. If you made a reasonably wise purchase, you can always resell it later for exactly what you have into it, and upgrade as needed.

What I would watch out for if buying an older machine, is the parts availability. This is going to limit you to just a few brands (Deere, Kubota, Ford), much more than if you were buying a new machine.

And for 4 acres, I'd be buying a 60" zero turn mower plus a 35 hp CUT. Hey wait... that's what I did! Mowing on a CUT is for those with more patience than me.

On my own 4 acres, I went from a 1965 Cub Cadet (10 hp), to a 1986 Deere CUT (23 hp) with FEL, to a 2019 Deere CUT (33 hp) with FEL. I don't need high horsepower, I'm not plowing crops or doing anything other than spreading fertilizer at PTO speed, 99% of my usage is for FEL.

 

[scootr]

Determine what size you need, like 30-40 hp. Friend bought a JD3830E for $15k with 1k hours on it. Nice little tractor does everything he needs to do on 5 acres. Get rear remotes or add them later.
When it comes to buying used buy as new a tractor as you can afford with the lowest hours. More hours means more repairs. Stick with the name brands. Good Luck

 

[kneedeep]

Buy the biggest SCUT /loader you can afford for 4 acres.
A box blade, grooming mower and a pallet fork will do most all you would need.

 

[WM75Guy]

Frame size and weight makes a difference. Trying to stay away from emissions I bought a NH Workmaster 25S 25hp subcompact last year. It had a midmount mower and FEL. This year I added a Land Pride 4' cutter. It felt like the tail was wagging the dog, not enough weight on the front end. Traded it in on the NH Workmaster 25, which is still 25hp but is a compact tractor. Now it feels stable, I have more lifting capacity, and larger tires. Something in that range would probably do most tasks for property maintenance for your 4 acres. If you needed something bigger for a project you could rent bigger equipment or hire it out.

Here are pics of both for comparison. I now think of a subcompact as a garden tractor with a loader and 3 pt hitch.

 

[airbiscuit]

Frame size and weight makes a difference. '''

Here are pics of both for comparison. I now think of a subcompact as a garden tractor with a loader and 3 pt hitch.

View attachment 3712600View attachment 3712601

 

[Karnawgie]

Happy to see some replies. Research and knowledge are never ending. The search and taking notes of what I'm finding are definetly an aid in my decisions and knowledge.

The B vs L makes a bit more sense now, the size difference between the different L series tractors in my budget and scope aren't very significant it seems.

I do have a normal 46" mower for now. Probably closer to 2 acres will be mowed at the moment. Not a bad slope across land, some brush. As far as the food plot and other farm space, it's undecided.

Very interesting and good point about these machines holding value. I'm not 100% sure what my heaviest or hardest tasks will be, but a CUT seems it will be more up to the tasks than a SCUT. I enjoyed the first hand experience and comparison of the NH.

I come from a background of junk, the newest car I've really owned is a 1996 and I drive older. I am not afraid to go newer as needing fewer repairs, having more parts, and a more efficient machine sounds great. I'd rather buy a good machine and get to work.

Talking old, 70s and 80s. I've seen some awesome operating FEL CUT for 3500-7k. L1801DT, L225, L245DT.

I have seen some awesome packages on something like a newer L2501 for 15-20k but I'm just not in the range.

90s/2000s seems to be where it's at. Seemingly better machines around that 10k range, with more parts availability. 98' L2350, 99' L2500dt, 96' L2900, 2000 L3010. Varying hours and conditions.

I'm willing to travel, and I believe I'm narrowing in on something I'd really like. Now I've just got to try to score a deal.

I'm really lliking the looks of a 98-2000 l2500dt. Id prefer a straight drive and I see two out there. Not to get off topic and start the common 'is this a good deal' type thread, but.

There's a Craigslist ad for one with 620 hours. New fluids, front tires, hoses, and looks clean. Asking 11.5k with a bushhog.

The other has 670 visibly rough hours. Bent bucket and 3 point adjuster, missing hood parts. It was recently serviced with some new hoses, battery, seals. But after seeing a video of it operating there is some visible blue smoke when warm, he's asking 7500$.

Wise to stay away from that? I'm not afraid of smoke but I'm looking for a good buy. Any other advice from you guys?