Changing hydraulic fluid?

[Jerry#1]

Here’s my ‘96 JD 1070. I use it primarily for snow removal on my long, gravel driveway and it’s never let me down. I enjoy the heated cab. My only complaint is with the manual transmission and bucket controls it’s hard to enjoy my hot coffee!
The tractor was owned by a local school district, kept indoors and used primarily for mowing the athletic fields. (It came with a 72” belly mower if anyone’s looking)
Now, my question. It just rolled over to 1,000 hours. I didn’t get any maintenance history when I bought it, but I’m assuming they followed the recommendation to change hydraulic fluid every 500 hours. It had 800 hours when I bought it and I’m going to change it now before next winter, but never having done it, I’m a little concerned about things like air lock, etc. I have the maintenance manual describing the steps and I bought a new JD filter and ten gallons of aftermarket hydraulic fluid.
Any tips, tricks, normal problems with doing this?
I’m working alone, so I want to get it done on my own.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[rScotty]

Here’s my ‘96 JD 1070. I use it primarily for snow removal on my long, gravel driveway and it’s never let me down. I enjoy the heated cab. My only complaint is with the manual transmission and bucket controls it’s hard to enjoy my hot coffee!
The tractor was owned by a local school district, kept indoors and used primarily for mowing the athletic fields. (It came with a 72” belly mower if anyone’s looking)
Now, my question. It just rolled over to 1,000 hours. I didn’t get any maintenance history when I bought it, but I’m assuming they followed the recommendation to change hydraulic fluid every 500 hours. It had 800 hours when I bought it and I’m going to change it now before next winter, but never having done it, I’m a little concerned about things like air lock, etc. I have the maintenance manual describing the steps and I bought a new JD filter and ten gallons of aftermarket hydraulic fluid.
Any tips, tricks, normal problems with doing this?
I’m working alone, so I want to get it done on my own.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Very nice tractor. And the right previous owner. That series of JD/Yanmars is one of my favorites, and we've had a dozen tractors here.

The hydraulic can't air lock. It's an open hydraulic system and always vented. The air will be swept out by the moving fluid in a matter of minutes at most. You probably won't even notice. Working the loader will help that, but again I doubt that you will know.

Check and see if you also have a cleanable screen type hydraulic filter on the side of the transmission (sump). I believe that yours did. That will definitely need a cleaning at 1000 hours. The additional hydraulic spin-on filter is like any other. Use a genuine spin-on, it is heavier built for a reason.

On the hydraulic fluid, if you got JD Hy-Gard trans/hydraulic oil you are good to go. BTW, DO NOT use hydraulic oil. Hydraulic fluid will ruin it. What you want is dual purpose transmission/hydraulic fluid. Your transmission and hydraulics share a common sump.

That dual use fluid is much more expensive; it has to be thin enough to be hydraulic fluid but have the shear strength of a gear oil. That magic is done with additives - which is why it is so much more expensive. This isn't some sort of conspiracy; good trans/hydraulic oil will go a thousand hours but it is costly. The JD Hy-Gard is a proprietary formula - as are all the trans/hydraulic oils. There are no lubrication or additive standards for trans/hydraulic oils, so there is no way an after market oil can meet a spec that doesn't even exist. The JD Hy-Gard has the specific additives for the internals of your transmission & hydraulics. It isn't the only good oil on the market, but the all cost about the same. Part of that cost is in the additives. The high dollar oils have an additive formulation that protects brass and bronze alloy bushings, Look it up if you are curious. There are other good transmission/hydraulic oils. I'm not pushing JD products, if you know what you are looking for, Chevron makes one and so does New Holland, Caterpillar, Kubota sells one that they don't make, and there are lots of others. But they all cost about the same.

You have found a tractor that should last a lifetime. If you would rather use aftermarket oil to save a few bucks I'd stop and question the whole project. Maybe just change the filters and call it good. There's a way to do that which kinda works. Why gamble?
rScotty

 

[ericm979]

Tractor fluid also has additives to make it work correctly with wet clutches and brakes. Hydraulic fluid does not.

The owners manual probably lists a few fluids that are recommended. Many manufacturers including Deere have their own fluid standard. I think for Deere the current one is J20C and the (very) old one is J20A. Oil makers can claim they meet those standards but there is no independent testing or verification. Reputable companies probably don't fudge it too much. (there is also a J20D which is low viscosity for cold weather)

I recommend replacing the oil and filters. Branson does not sell oil and I could not find the oils they list in the manual, so for my tractor I have used oils whose specs line up with the ones they list. It's worked fine so far.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

I bought a new JD filter and ten gallons of aftermarket hydraulic fluid.
Any tips, tricks, normal problems with doing this?
I’m working alone, so I want to get it done on my own.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Just make sure the aftermarket fluid has the same specifications as the specified fluid in the manual.
I have seen this not go so well before.

 

[rScotty]

It would be nice if we could compare specs on Trans/Hydraulic fluid (tractor fluid) like we can for engine oils. But we can't; unlike engine oils, hydraulic and trans/hydraulic oil specs are not public info. The mixture and performance data are carefully guarded trade secrets. JD probably does a lot of testing....at least we hope so.... but the only specs from John Deere for their J20 oils that they report are viscosity and flash point. Nothing about lubrication, additives, breakdown ,or compatibility.

So all an aftermarket oil provider has to do is match the viscosity and flash point to say it meets JD's J20A,C, or D specs. It doesn't even have to be oil....it could be anything. It could be old used motor oil without any additives for instance. As long as the viscostiy and flash point are within (unpublished) bounds they could say their fluid meets J20s specs - or anyone else's specs. A decent chef could probably mix up a BBQ sauce or salad dressing that would meet viscosity and flammability specs.

Maybe the aftermarket oils are perfectly good. We hope so & they might be. They just don't have to be.
Frankly, the 12 gallons of trans/hydraulic fluid that comes out of my own tractor sure looks and feels good to me. It is clean and clear. I sure can't tell the difference from new. Especially if it sets for awhile.

rScotty

 

[Jerry#1]

Very nice tractor. And the right previous owner. That series of JD/Yanmars is one of my favorites, and we've had a dozen tractors here.

The hydraulic can't air lock. It's an open hydraulic system and always vented. The air will be swept out by the moving fluid in a matter of minutes at most. You probably won't even notice. Working the loader will help that, but again I doubt that you will know.

Check and see if you also have a cleanable screen type hydraulic filter on the side of the transmission (sump). I believe that yours did. That will definitely need a cleaning at 1000 hours. The additional hydraulic spin-on filter is like any other. Use a genuine spin-on, it is heavier built for a reason.

On the hydraulic fluid, if you got JD Hy-Gard trans/hydraulic oil you are good to go. BTW, DO NOT use hydraulic oil. Hydraulic fluid will ruin it. What you want is dual purpose transmission/hydraulic fluid. Your transmission and hydraulics share a common sump.

That dual use fluid is much more expensive; it has to be thin enough to be hydraulic fluid but have the shear strength of a gear oil. That magic is done with additives - which is why it is so much more expensive. This isn't some sort of conspiracy; good trans/hydraulic oil will go a thousand hours but it is costly. The JD Hy-Gard is a proprietary formula - as are all the trans/hydraulic oils. There are no lubrication or additive standards for trans/hydraulic oils, so there is no way an after market oil can meet a spec that doesn't even exist. The JD Hy-Gard has the specific additives for the internals of your transmission & hydraulics. It isn't the only good oil on the market, but the all cost about the same. Part of that cost is in the additives. The high dollar oils have an additive formulation that protects brass and bronze alloy bushings, Look it up if you are curious. There are other good transmission/hydraulic oils. I'm not pushing JD products, if you know what you are looking for, Chevron makes one and so does New Holland, Caterpillar, Kubota sells one that they don't make, and there are lots of others. But they all cost about the same.

You have found a tractor that should last a lifetime. If you would rather use aftermarket oil to save a few bucks I'd stop and question the whole project. Maybe just change the filters and call it good. There's a way to do that which kinda works. Why gamble?
rScotty

Great info! Glad I asked because I want to do it right. I'll go with the JD Hy-Gard. Thank you all very much for taking the time to educate me.

 

[oosik]

DON'T make the mistake I almost made when changing my hydraulic fluid. My M6040 has 16+ gallons. I was going to use four - five gallon pails. Then it hit me - how will I move a full five gallon pail and not have the fluid still draining out on the ground. Before I can get an empty one under the tractor.

My wife has many 20 gallon Tupperware "quilt tubs". Worked like a champ. I got the wife two new ones for letting me use one of hers.

If you drop the drain plug in the "soup" - because it and the oil are so hot. Don't panic. You can always fish it out after all the oil has drained.

 

[zzvyb6]

On my 1070, the hydraulic dipstick is clearly imprinted with "USE LO-VIS JD Hy-Gard."
BTW: I have an 80 loader and found out that the QA loader kit work great on this tractor. Only a slight modification needed and easy to make. Even the bucket level indicator works with the kit. Now I use forks 10 times as much a the bucket. I also got an electric 3rd function valve kit from Summit for a snow plow.

 

[rScotty]

Great info! Glad I asked because I want to do it right. I'll go with the JD Hy-Gard. Thank you all very much for taking the time to educate me.

We've all been there. When I use a different engine oil, my old ears can't hear any difference in how the engine sounds. But from reading and following the threads here on TBN for 20 years, it's pretty common for guys to be able to hear the difference in their tractor with some trans/hydraulic oils - especially with HST.
With JDs Hy-Gard you have a choice between lo and regular viscosity. The choice is a compromise. JD says to use the Lo viscosity (winter) Hy-Gard year round if you do winter tractoring in a cold climate. My JD service manager - for the yellow JDs - says it's OK to mix them & is what they do.

Be sure to clean that cleanable filter. They do catch a lot of particles and clog up after a few decades.

rScotty

 

[rScotty]

DON'T make the mistake I almost made when changing my hydraulic fluid. My M6040 has 16+ gallons. I was going to use four - five gallon pails. Then it hit me - how will I move a full five gallon pail and not have the fluid still draining out on the ground. Before I can get an empty one under the tractor.

My wife has many 20 gallon Tupperware "quilt tubs". Worked like a champ. I got the wife two new ones for letting me use one of hers.

If you drop the drain plug in the "soup" - because it and the oil are so hot. Don't panic. You can always fish it out after all the oil has drained.

Don't you wish someone would come up with a better scheme for changing oil? Something nicer than crawling under the machine with a wrench and a bucket? Our Kubota is the worst - even worse than our JDs. Kubota put all the hydraulic filters are under there too! They could just as easily be at waist level on the side of the tractor.
rScotty

 

[RjCorazza]

DON'T make the mistake I almost made when changing my hydraulic fluid. My M6040 has 16+ gallons. I was going to use four - five gallon pails. Then it hit me - how will I move a full five gallon pail and not have the fluid still draining out on the ground. Before I can get an empty one under the tractor.

My wife has many 20 gallon Tupperware "quilt tubs". Worked like a champ. I got the wife two new ones for letting me use one of hers.

If you drop the drain plug in the "soup" - because it and the oil are so hot. Don't panic. You can always fish it out after all the oil has drained.

I also use the large Tupperware style tubs when draining the hydraulic / transmission fluid. My machine holds 11 gallons, and I drain the differential and main case separately so it's easier to deal with the old fluid.

 

[oosik]

Another point. Loosening the drain plug. I assume you are lying on your back. Under the tractor. Reaching UP and slowly loosening the drain plug. You might want to crawl out - before it's completely loose. Reposition yourself so you are reaching DOWN and under the pan.

This way as you pull the plug - VERY HOT oil will not run down your arm and grease your arm pit. BTDT.

 

[5030]

Myself, I use an old aluminum diesel truck tank I plasma cut to fit. It holds at least 40 gallons and I TIG welded on handles. Nothing worse than an overflowing drain pan.

 

[rScotty]

I just don't like handling something flat enough to slide under a tractor and filled with 10 to 15 gallons of oil. That's a formula for a mess. How do you empty it?

I wonder if a person could use some of that fairly stiff plastic tubing and a battery powered pump to pull most of the oil out through the filler hole. That is how Generac generators recommend changing the engine oil. In fact, our Generac came with the pump and tubing.

rScotty

 

[SuperHerb]

I bought something similar to this at my local Fleet Farm:

Amazon.com

Worked like a champ to change my 11 gals of hydro fluid plus the tractor oil change and the wheels and handles made it relatively easy for my wife and I to transport and dump at our local waste oil recycling facility.

 

[ericm979]

I bought something similar to this at my local Fleet Farm:

Amazon.com

I got one of those too. I put it on the edge of the barn slab and tilt it down to pour into 5 gallon buckets for transport. Putting it in the loader bucket would work also.

 

[5030]

Got you all whipped. I paid 10 bucks at the scrap yard for a 150 gallon aluminum fuel tank off a wrecked truck and I plasma cut 1/3rd of it apart and added aluminum bar stock handles (TIG welded on). Fits under both tractors and holds at least 20 gallons of oil which I put back into the 5 gallon pails the new oil came out of.

I use a 10 buck Harbor Freight D cell battery operated pump to suck it out of the pan and back into the pails. Being the enterprising individual I am, I replaced the D cell batteries with rechargeable Li-Ion D cells and I already had the charger.

What was left of the dented fuel tank went back to the scrap yard and got 15 bucks credit so the tank made me money in the end.

I roast ALL my drain oil and brake fluid and contaminated diesel fuel in my Clean Burn waste oil furnace that helps heat the shop. I'm cheap or as my wife says.... Frugal.

if it has scrap value it always gets 'recycled'. Even bad bullets and dented brass. I do have to recycle the used AF but I put that in the local truck dealership's tank and Safety Kleen handles that. Not sure where it goes but I imagine it is cleaned and reused or maybe sold in bulk. I don't believe AF ever wears out.

Get my engine oil in 55 gallon returnable drums (5-40 Rotella T6) used oil goes to the oil burner. I use Rotella T6 in everything 4 stroke. Have for years now.

I'd get my hydraulic fluid in 55's as well but I cannot. Only comes in 5's even though 2 tractors is 2/3rd of a 55 gallon drum (15 gallons a change times 2). I use Chevron All weather THC synthetic. it's not cheap but for me, works excellent.

I use 85-140 gear oil as well, but not enough to warrant a bulk buy. A 5 gallon pail of 85-140 Spirax works fine.

 

[Captain Dirty]

. . . When I use a different engine oil, my old ears can't hear any difference in how the engine sounds. But from reading and following the threads here on TBN for 20 years, it's pretty common for guys to be able to hear the difference in their tractor with some trans/hydraulic oils - especially with HST. . .

I haven't been on the forum as long as rScotty but concur that most relevant posts support the better results from the manufacturer's fluid. I have only used Kubota's SUDT2 in my Kubota, had no problems, and will endorse the common wisdom despite the premium price. The fact the OP asked the question indicates he is not the alchemnist to brew up a better replacement fluid.

That said, an oil analysis from a reputable lab will cost around $30 (about the cost of a gallon fo fluid). You (OP) could analyze what came in the tractor or make the change and analyze in around 500 hours; then follow the lab's recommendations. Do make the scheduled filter changes including servicing any cleanable strainers. As 5030 noted, ATF doesn't go bad. It may become contaminated with water, particles, or spent additives that may be noted by milky fluid at implement changes (expecially with not your own), prevented by religious filter changes, or noted on lab analyses.

Many have suggestions on holding the quantity you will drop on a total fluid change. There are threads on using a shop vac to hold fluid back while making filter only changes.

 

[beenthere]

Don't you wish someone would come up with a better scheme for changing oil? Something nicer than crawling under the machine with a wrench and a bucket? Our Kubota is the worst - even worse than our JDs. Kubota put all the hydraulic filters are under there too! They could just as easily be at waist level on the side of the tractor.
rScotty

They do make them. Put in "transmission fluid extractor and filler pump" and Amazon pumps will show up. Pretty slick.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=transmission+fluid+extractor+and+filler+pump&crid=15P40MLERQ3PT&sprefix=transmission+fluid+extractor+pump%2Caps%2C161&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_33