Rocksprings
Silver Member
Another rookie question. When I drain the hydro. fluid.... will all of it drain or will some stay in the lines ? and... At what position do I put the FEL when I drain the hydro. fluid ?
Changing Hydraulic fluid
- Thread starter Rocksprings
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AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
only oil in tank will be drained from bottom plug in tank.....rest of system is confined oil and will need hoses disconnected to be drained....
why do you drain the system?
If just a maintenance so many hour routine, you do not need to get it drained out of lines. If you had a major component failure then you would probably need to clean lines. Observe on reservoir, some tractors have more then 1 area that has a plug for draining. If more then 1 spot, you may leave a little extra old oil that could not drain well. Check owners manual for location(s).
OP
Rocksprings
Silver Member
kennyd
Advertiser
The MOST important part of the first 50 hour service is the filter and screen. Just replace the fluid in the sump-no need to worry about what's left in the hoses and such.
EddieL
Member
I am about to change the fluid and was wondering the same thing. The fluid looks cloudy so I think it should all be drained out so that what is left in the lines and cylinders doesn't contaminate the new fluid. How would I do this?
RobertBrown
Elite Member
How many lines do you have? If it's just a loader I would'nt worry about it. if it's got to happen then I would change the oil twice about 10-20 hours apart. It will cost you an extra 30-50 bucks but I would rather do that then break all those line apart.
J_J
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You can drain the cyl and hoses, but it gets kind of messy. After you change out the fluid, start the tractor, and don't touch any levers. The new fluid will follow a path through the FEL valve back to the 3pt and to tank. If you have drained the cyl and hoses, the new fluid will enter the hose and cyl, and expel the air. You may have to cycle all cyl several times to get all the air out. Then check the fluid level in the reservoir.
Leejohn
Elite Member
Have your bucket all the way back, loader all the way up, and 3 pt up. Tractor off, drain oil, when all out let the 3pt down, let bucket fall down, and then let the loader down without starting the tractor. That should get out all the oil that you can without unhooking everything and blowing out lines.
You well have to cycle all cyl several times to get all the air out. Then check the fluid level in the reservoir.
You well have to cycle all cyl several times to get all the air out. Then check the fluid level in the reservoir.
EddieL
Member
This sounds like a good plan to me. Unless someone tells me this is a bad idea I will use this method.
Thanks,
Ed
RickB
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That is the best method to get the most oil out without going nuts chasing the last drop.
CloudyBright
New member
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If I could piggyback another question onto this thread. . . .?
I broke a hydraulic line metal adapter fitting on my B7500 Kubota while busting brush.
The new replacement fitting is installed now.
So, do I have to bleed the lines? Or can I simply top off the hydraulic reservoir and run it and hope that hydraulic pressure will return?
I broke a hydraulic line metal adapter fitting on my B7500 Kubota while busting brush.
The new replacement fitting is installed now.
So, do I have to bleed the lines? Or can I simply top off the hydraulic reservoir and run it and hope that hydraulic pressure will return?
J_J
Super Star Member
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- Sep 6, 2003
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- 18,973
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- JACKSONVILLE, FL
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- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
The air will be forced out of the hyd system with use.
boggen
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awesome thread!!! never thought about it
i most likely could do same thing for my ford 555c loader/backhoe.
assuming all cylinders for FEL and 3pt have 2 hydraulic hoses running to them this trick should work out. at least how i am thinking about it.
raise loader and bucket all the way up. raise 3pt hitch up. shut off tractor. drain oil.
when ya come to step to let down FEL and 3pt. instead of the cylinders drawing in more oil, they draw in air into the lines and into the cylinders.
and once the remaining oil drains out after letting them down. what you have afterwards is old oil that is remaining in the cylinders. and some oil here and there that would take for ever to drain out.
when you put new oil back in. start tractor back up. operate the FEL and 3PT. when i say operate. don't go around trying to move some dirt or hooking up to something. but raise and lower the FEL and bucket along with the 3PT. and keep an eye on the resevior level. i am guessing initally the resivior will go dry rather quickly. and need multi refills.
i am also going to assume. that once ya operated FEL and 3PT enough times. that you will need to shut down tractor and let it set overnight. and then recheck resivior and operate FEL and 3pt hitch again a few times. to make sure all the air has been worked out. ((or am i wrong i thinking there might be air mixed into the oil, and will need some time to let the air get out of the oil?))
i am assuming the 10 to 20 hour doing is to deal with air but also getting the old oil that was still left in. all mixed up with the new oil. and also get the new oil all worked into the system. so any containments will be absorb by this new oil.
then a complete new oil change. removes any old oil that was initially in the system. and any other contaminates.
=================
on older tractors were there is only one hydrualic hose going to the cylinder. or any cylinder that only had one hose going to it. then i would assume. that would be the hyrualic line and cylinder. that would have to be pulled. and manually operated with line in a bucket to get old oil out. then line in bucket to get new oil in. and get the air out of it. or less the cylinder had a bleeder valve located on it.
(scratchs head while thinking about it) ya i think that makes since at least to me.
i most likely could do same thing for my ford 555c loader/backhoe.
assuming all cylinders for FEL and 3pt have 2 hydraulic hoses running to them this trick should work out. at least how i am thinking about it.
raise loader and bucket all the way up. raise 3pt hitch up. shut off tractor. drain oil.
when ya come to step to let down FEL and 3pt. instead of the cylinders drawing in more oil, they draw in air into the lines and into the cylinders.
and once the remaining oil drains out after letting them down. what you have afterwards is old oil that is remaining in the cylinders. and some oil here and there that would take for ever to drain out.
when you put new oil back in. start tractor back up. operate the FEL and 3PT. when i say operate. don't go around trying to move some dirt or hooking up to something. but raise and lower the FEL and bucket along with the 3PT. and keep an eye on the resevior level. i am guessing initally the resivior will go dry rather quickly. and need multi refills.
i am also going to assume. that once ya operated FEL and 3PT enough times. that you will need to shut down tractor and let it set overnight. and then recheck resivior and operate FEL and 3pt hitch again a few times. to make sure all the air has been worked out. ((or am i wrong i thinking there might be air mixed into the oil, and will need some time to let the air get out of the oil?))
i am assuming the 10 to 20 hour doing is to deal with air but also getting the old oil that was still left in. all mixed up with the new oil. and also get the new oil all worked into the system. so any containments will be absorb by this new oil.
then a complete new oil change. removes any old oil that was initially in the system. and any other contaminates.
=================
on older tractors were there is only one hydrualic hose going to the cylinder. or any cylinder that only had one hose going to it. then i would assume. that would be the hyrualic line and cylinder. that would have to be pulled. and manually operated with line in a bucket to get old oil out. then line in bucket to get new oil in. and get the air out of it. or less the cylinder had a bleeder valve located on it.
(scratchs head while thinking about it) ya i think that makes since at least to me.
EddieL
Member
I changed the oil about a week ago. I put the front wheels on a retaining wall so the bucket would go all the way down, then raised everything and drained the oil. After the oil quit flowing I dropped the 3-point and FEL, then filled it up. Then I raised the 3-point and topped it off, swiveled the bucket up and topped it off, and raised the bucket and topped it off again. After that I cycled everything several times and checked the oil again. It didn't go down significantly.
