Changing attachments

   / Changing attachments #11  
For a standard, and recently built, tractor, you can either resort to the multitude of quick hitch setups available, or do it the old fashioned way. The latter involves backing the tractor slowly into the implement, and aligning as nearly as you can both lifting (lower) 3ph arms, but with preference to the non-adjustable (non-telescoping) arm. If you can get that one lined up, you can crank the adjustment on the other arm to get that side finessed.
As to minor front/back (anterior/posterior or whatever) misalignments of the lower 3ph arms, you can usually get an inch or so fairly easily (if a small tractor) by just leaning on the rear tire with your shoulder, or pulling up or down on one of the cleats on a R1 or R4 tire - tractors will budge a bit without too much effort if out of gear and on level ground.
The center link is irrelevant, as all adjust readily to ANY position the receptor might be in when the lower arms are attached the implement (mine telescopes on both ends of the shaft).
As to the pto shaft, good luck. I have a medium duty Woods brush cutter with a pto shaft that must weigh 60 pounds, and it does not want to telescope onto the pto takeoff of my tractor (have to lubricate it, the coupler, and cover the pto shaft with grease to have any hope of joining them - my buddy has a light duty brush cutter, and the shaft is such a featherweight my wife could slide it on). Oh yeah, if the coupler on your implement shaft has bearings which are supposed to retract when you pull back the collar and slide on the shaft - before you exert yourself, slide the collar back and make sure the bearings retract fully - if they don't, squirt grease around them and jar them loose with a screwdriver or something - darn near got a hernia before learning that lesson when I tried to attached an old implement to my tractor.
Anyhow, flat garage floors, implements on dollies, quick hitch devices and the like are great, but most of us just back up the tractor to the implement, fume a bit (yes, I have a 5 foot crowbar and large hammer, but usually don't need them), and get it done.
 
   / Changing attachments #12  
i store my back blade on a dollie, and the RFM is already on wheels. this makes the task a whole lot easier. i keep a 6ft length of pipe around as a pry bar when i need it. my strenght ain't what it used to be either , /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Changing attachments #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've been thinking about welding a chain hook or two near the balance point of each implement so they could be suspended from an overhang where I store them- like a limb, rafter, or "swingset" frame made out of 4 X6's. When mounting, lift the implement with a chain hoist, come-a-long, etc, then back up close. While suspended, the implement can easily move several inches in any direction as well as rotate.

1,000 lb hunks of steel hanging from limbs? Rafters? or 4x6's?
hope you don't have any kids running around. Or pets. Or other human beings! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'll have to admit that most of my ideas work best from the armchair.

John )</font>
 
   / Changing attachments #14  
EXTENDABLE links and put the implement down on pieces of 4x4 so the height can't be too low. Wouldn't ever think about quick attaches after those 2 factors combined. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Changing attachments #15  
Absolutely on the links! Our old JD had fixed links and a crotchety PTO, i had busted knuckles & a bad back! The new tractor has adjustable length links, as well as a pull-out/locking feature to hook up. The PTO can be set to "free-wheel" from the back of the tractor (a lever) to make that part easier. I have not had a single headache from this set-up and can change over in a couple of minutes. FYI: Box blade, rake, Woods tiller, RM snowblower, 60" rotary cutter - some of it's pretty heavy!

Put the attachments somewhere they stay level, like Grimreaper sez, i use old lengths of PT wood to set/level the implements on and they are easier to line up to when time comes to use 'em. I just line 'em all up off the side of the yard, works fine... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / Changing attachments #16  
I set the brush hog on a fence post (at the front) when I take it off, so at least its not too low when I put it back on.
 
   / Changing attachments #17  
I set all mine on old wood pallets,it makes them a better higthand and they move around a little better

PS don't forget the 5ft. roosterbar
 
   / Changing attachments #18  
Mlb,

I think the key here is that the implements are stored on the ground and lifted an inch or two only while loading. Yes, you could smash your toe if your foot happened to be under the load just as the chain or frame failed- Simultaneous unlikely events. But I think your true risk goes up when you hop on the tractor.

As far as kids and pets, they have no business ricocheting around there no matter how you mount your implements.

And I would be very selective about where I hung a 1000 lb implement, if I had any thing even close.

John
 
   / Changing attachments #19  
Since I have a cement floor I store all of my implements on dollies. Most of the dollies are made with 2X4 and heavy duty casters that I got from TSC. They are inexpensive to build and make it easy to attach and unattach implements to the tractor.

Attached is a picture of the dolly that I built for my tiller. It's made from two pieces of steel channel and it works great.

John
 

Attachments

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    321720-Tiller Dolly 4.jpg
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   / Changing attachments #20  
The main thing I have found that speeds up the process is to be sure to drop off implements on a <font color="blue">level surface </font>. It doesn't matter if it's rock, asphalt, dirt, grass or whatever --- as long as it's level.
A 4-6 foot persuader (bar or pipe) can also help position the implement.
My .02.
 
 

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