Oil & Fuel Change coolant every 2 years

[RalphVa]

I was reading the B2301/2601 owners manual online. Even Kubota recommends changing the engine coolant every 2 years.

What is different about a tractor's coolant vs. car/trucks that go 10 years or 100k miles now on coolant? Think NOTHING.

There is really nothing different about a tractor's engine vs. one on a car/truck either. It's just that you HEAR it more loudly and you tend to think it's working harder. No. No harder than a car/truck engine going about its life. They're just very well noise isolated.

I'm not changing the coolant on the JD 2025R. It'll be well less than 10 years old before I trade it off (probably for a B2301). I also went to biyearly oil changes. Silly to change out every year (on a synthetic anyway). May even not change it on our JD walk behind because its dipstick has always shown crystal clear oil.

Went to longer drain periods on the 1983 after initially following those "every 2 years" recommendations way back then. Same for oil changes. Switched to synthetic and doubled the interval.

If the vehicle doesn't have one of those chambers to vent off excess or suck coolant back in, add one. I added one to my Isuzu diesels radiator. That's the main source of not being able to go longer before turning the coolant a bit acid. As far as I've experienced so far, all the new tractors have these overflow chambers, e.g. little plastic containers where you replenish any needed coolant and can easily see the level without removing the radiator cap (another source of air).

Ralph

 

[Roadworthy]

I don't think you'll find any car recommending coolant change at ten years though five may be pretty common. Most tractors seem to still be using ethylene glycol for a coolant while many cars have moved on to something safer for the environment. (propylene glycol?) Whatever length of time you choose for your coolant changes (or not) I cannot stress too strongly using only distilled water for mixing with coolant. Tap water has too many unwanted minerals to build up in there. Also be sure to add only distilled water to any batteries which still give the option.

 

[dodge man]

They have upgraded coolant in cars and they are usually funny colors, red, kind of a pink etc. They are designed to run much longer but the Kubota I used to have was the green stuff, which doesn't last as long.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I NEVER change equipment coolant. Surely, one would think if something becomes absent, you should just be able to add a little something.

I mentioned it elsewhere, how amazed I was, when I wanted to use "Genuine" Kubota Coolant in one of my generators, my Kubota Parts guy tells me they don't have their own coolant. What! Unbelievable!

 

[dodge man]

Coolant does deteriorate over time and radiators can become plugged and you can lose the anti freeze properties of it.

 

[cdaigle430]

I was reading the B2301/2601 owners manual online. Even Kubota recommends changing the engine coolant every 2 years.

What is different about a tractor's coolant vs. car/trucks that go 10 years or 100k miles now on coolant? Think NOTHING.

There is really nothing different about a tractor's engine vs. one on a car/truck either. It's just that you HEAR it more loudly and you tend to think it's working harder. No. No harder than a car/truck engine going about its life. They're just very well noise isolated.

I'm not changing the coolant on the JD 2025R. It'll be well less than 10 years old before I trade it off (probably for a B2301). I also went to biyearly oil changes. Silly to change out every year (on a synthetic anyway). May even not change it on our JD walk behind because its dipstick has always shown crystal clear oil.

Went to longer drain periods on the 1983 after initially following those "every 2 years" recommendations way back then. Same for oil changes. Switched to synthetic and doubled the interval.

If the vehicle doesn't have one of those chambers to vent off excess or suck coolant back in, add one. I added one to my Isuzu diesels radiator. That's the main source of not being able to go longer before turning the coolant a bit acid. As far as I've experienced so far, all the new tractors have these overflow chambers, e.g. little plastic containers where you replenish any needed coolant and can easily see the level without removing the radiator cap (another source of air).

Ralph

I never change my coolant. My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 130,000 miles (almost 15 years old) still runs like new with original coolant. My 2004 Honda ATV also has original coolant as well as my 2010 MF.

Now that being said-my last two Jeep Grand Cherokees did have coolant replaced per manufacturer warranty-both had major issues with radiators, water pumps and head gaskets. Not saying to neglect the cooling system but make sure when the coolant is replaced it is done correctly or you could get water pump and radiater clog issues like I did. I also had a Chevy Blazer and two other chevy cars had same cooling issues even though I spent big $$ performing recommended maintenance.

 

[Ortimber]

Generally, I change coolant in everything (cars, tractors, mowers) every 4-5 years. So far, I've never had any coolant related failures over a 30 year span.

 

[MaineGuy1]

Just because recommended maintenance on something is not followed and no problems arise, does not make it correct. I will agree, I am sure there are many people that haven't changed it.

 

[TractorGuy]

I test mine annually and change it every so often but not on any particular schedule.

It used to be common to see clogged radiators but I'm pretty sure that was due to water quality as much as anything else. You hardly ever see it any more.

 

[big bubba]

personally, 2yr interval coolant changes are way too frequent. but i would never consider leaving it in for the lifetime of vehicle or tractor.

something to consider beyond the cheap temp range gauge:
Coolant Testing with a Multimeter | Family Handyman

 

[Industrial Toys]

Interesting, but I am a little confused. He says do a conductivity test, yet he is reading voltage potential in the coolant itself. Like a wet battery. I have a couple of loss of coolant sensors on generators, and I will have to remember this in case I get weird results, because I am just looking at coolant resistance in a non-isolated circuit.

Are you sure this isn't the guy that says take apart a car battery because there are hundreds of AA cells in there? lol He even showed it!

 

[big bubba]

you could absolutely be right. & prob know more than i re:multi meter capabilities. ran across this method in a few write ups, never tried myself.
guess i should post that disclaimer.
but if a person is really interested in the cond. of existing coolant, one shouldn't merely rely on the floating ball or arrow temp gauge, etc.
frequency of coolant change lies somewhere between the "if it ain't broke do nothing" and the preventative maintenance school of thought.... thx

 

[wheelbuilder]

Some diesels need coolant that prevents an issue called cavitation, which can destroy the cylinder bores. The additives in such coolant does deplete in use.
Best bet is to test heavy duty coolants to ensure that these additives are at an appropriate level, if your engine requires such a coolant. Some can easily be remedied with diesel coolant additive refreshing the coolant.

 

[RjCorazza]

The vast majority of coolants are ethylene glycol based for auto, truck, or heavy machinery use. The environmentally friendly propylene glycol based coolants are available from some manufacturers, but its use is more of a rarity.

Kubota's 2 year interval is based on the standard green coolant, which has been the factory fill on all 4 Kubota machines I have purchased. There is no reason one can't replace the standard green with a compatible extended life coolant. I personally use Zerex G05 (HOAT, (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology)) in the Kubota machines, which has a 5 year interval.

 

[RalphVa]

Good point. Maybe do the conductivity test and replace it. Cannot understand why Kubota, JD, etc. (how many others say to replace every 2 years?) don't pay maybe another $1-2/gallon and put the extended fill stuff in. Or why not just offer an additive pack. Don't think the ethylene glycol breaks down; it's the additives (sorta like the old mineral oil that had a lot of additives).

Admittedly, it's easy to do on tractors, if you do what I used to do on the Benz and 1997 Tacoma: remove the thermostat vent bolt. That's the only way I could get the stuff to come out on the JD 4010. Easy to refill with the bolt vent out, too.

Ralph

 

[jimmychew]

Some diesels need coolant that prevents an issue called cavitation, which can destroy the cylinder bores. The additives in such coolant does deplete in use.
Best bet is to test heavy duty coolants to ensure that these additives are at an appropriate level, if your engine requires such a coolant. Some can easily be remedied with diesel coolant additive refreshing the coolant.

What he said.

High compression diesel engines require additives in the coolant to protect the coolant side of the cylinder walls from destruction resulting from cavitation.

One form is SCAs which are found in most green coolant. SCAs require regular testing and additives to maintain protection and filtration to prevent coolant system clogging.

There are plenty of modern Extended Life Coolants that do not use SCAs, require no testing or additives, no filtration and will last far longer than conventional green coolant.

 

[Jstpssng]

I never even thought about this. The worst part to me is that every two years you need to get rid of 4 (?) gallons of coolant; possible if it's clean, yet I have several contaminated gallons down in the shed which were drained from my 8N after the head gasket let go.
There was a time when every vehicle I owned was switched over to propylene glycol; the problem I encountered was that it's the same color as the ethylene glycol, and "helpful" grease jockeys would top it off, contaminating it and charging me for the "privilege."

 

[jpm]

I would think a hour rate would be better than a calendar timing . In two years some may only have 100 hours others could be 1000s

 

[Jim Nelson]

Several years ago I had a boat with twin Cat engines and at that time Cat said to use only de-ionized water with the anti freeze mix and also in their batteries. I don't know if this is still the case but it makes sense to not add minerals in either case. At the time my slip neighbor and I went partners on a de-ionizing tank to use for a spot free rinse and it worked great and as I recall wasn't too expensive. Of course "too expensive" is a relative term in boating.

 

[Cougsfan]

I think the need to change coolant has more to do with the water you used to dilute it than the antifreeze itself. If you are using hard water with a lot of minerals you will need to change it more often than if you use a soft water. I think the best check of antifreeze is just observing it's appearance. If it is dark or murky, full of little bits of rust, or has changed color it is in need of replacement. If it is clear and the looks the same as new coolant, there is probably no need to change it. I am not sure I'd buy into the multi-meter voltage test procedure. That seemingly has too many variables to be reliable. Blindly changing coolant every two years seems to me to be a manufacture's "cover their *****" recommendation. In my experience, some engines seem to ruin the same antifreeze/ water mixture that works a long, long time in other engines. That probably has to do with the materials used in the construction of the engine and cooling system, how hot some parts of the engine gets, water pump impeller cavitation, or other subtle differences..