Change clutch
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greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
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- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
First, what symptoms cause you to believe you need to change clutch and TOB? Under normal usage, a properly adjusted clutch and bearings should last hundreds of hours.
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Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
There is not a step by step instruction book, alot will depend on your owm mechanical ability. To replace the clutch you must have the tools and equipment to split the tractor at the bell housing.We can help you with some of the procedures and sequence but the rest is up to you.We do have any replacement parts you may need as well as a splined clutch alignment tool ( that we ship with our clutch assemblies at no extra charge)
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Let's start by stating that these tractors use a dry clutch system, and that what you're calling "trans fluid" is actually (or should be) gear oil. There's a set of seals in place to prevent gear oil in the mid-connect box from seeping forward into the bell housing. Occasionally these seals fail, but in this case it would seem unrelated to your getting stuck in the mud. FWIW, if/when enough seeps through to "wet" the clutch pack, you'd see clear evidence of it at the weep hole. And if that phrase is new to you,look for a small hole int the bottom of the bell housing. It's there to let the housing breathe (assists in the evaporation of interior condensation). That said, it wouldn't hurt to make sure that hole isn't blocked with mud.
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LD1
Epic Contributor
No disrespect intended with this post, but if you have to ask for step by step instructions on how to change a clutch on a tractor, I'd say it probably isnt in your mechanical ability to do the job.
Again, no disrespect. But it is straight forward. You have to split the tractor. You can easily look at it and see what all accessories and sheetmetal needs removed to do so, and then its just bell housing bolts and the tractor is split.
You also need a nice assortment of lifting tools/jacks, overhead hoist or engine hoist, jackstands, etc.
Again, no disrespect. But it is straight forward. You have to split the tractor. You can easily look at it and see what all accessories and sheetmetal needs removed to do so, and then its just bell housing bolts and the tractor is split.
You also need a nice assortment of lifting tools/jacks, overhead hoist or engine hoist, jackstands, etc.
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Having split my own 304 Jinma, I'd have to disagree with that assessment. I had never done any major work on a tractor before and managed it with some helpful advice from a couple of fine dealers and others on these forums. Could I have done it with no guidance? Perhaps, but certainly not as easily nor as well - it only made sense to ask for help and pay attention to the advice. I did it without using an engine hoist or overheard hoist, though I do have one. Also, the initial split is not at the bell housing but at the mid-connect box to bell housing joint, then the bell housing is removed. Some of the removal sequence on tinware and electrics and hydraulics was not immediately intuitive, though I've done many clutches on trucks and cars before, so it was very helpful to have some guidance. After all, that's what these forums are for, isn't it?
If you want to see what I went through on splitting mine, you read about it here: Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS I managed to get the job done just fine in a weekend's worth of time, working by myself. It would have definitely been easier with a helper, though.
If you want to see what I went through on splitting mine, you read about it here: Major Tractor Woes in Paradise | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS I managed to get the job done just fine in a weekend's worth of time, working by myself. It would have definitely been easier with a helper, though.
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
I'm with Rich on this one, I split my tractor by myself having never done it before. My instructions are in this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...35-jinma-304-tractor-running-low-2-print.html
The instructions start near the bottom of the page.
I will agree that there aren't really step-by-step instructions, every one of these tractors is a little different, depending on what they had on hand in the factory on the day it was assembled. But the basic principle is the same: disconnect everything that crosses the center of the tractor, support both halves, take the bolts out and roll the two halves apart. Fix what needs to be fixed and roll the two halves together again.
Where you will probably get hung up is when you hit an individual wire, cable or tube and you don't see how to disconnect it (or even whether you need to). That's when you come here and plumb our collective wisdom.
The instructions start near the bottom of the page.
I will agree that there aren't really step-by-step instructions, every one of these tractors is a little different, depending on what they had on hand in the factory on the day it was assembled. But the basic principle is the same: disconnect everything that crosses the center of the tractor, support both halves, take the bolts out and roll the two halves apart. Fix what needs to be fixed and roll the two halves together again.
Where you will probably get hung up is when you hit an individual wire, cable or tube and you don't see how to disconnect it (or even whether you need to). That's when you come here and plumb our collective wisdom.
Add me to the list of people who "disagree with the assesment." We who have limited experience like to get as much information as possible before undertaking a major repair.
Call Nothern Tool and ask to speak with a mechanic. They may have the procedure you want.
LD1 is correct about needing the proper tools. Some parts are very heavy and need to be alligned properly. My only advice is go slow and always think of how to do it safely. I am currently working on my Kubota L245DT which has a cracked rear axle cover. Several times I have told myself, "That was dumb". Be prepared to stop and start fresh another day.
Call Nothern Tool and ask to speak with a mechanic. They may have the procedure you want.
LD1 is correct about needing the proper tools. Some parts are very heavy and need to be alligned properly. My only advice is go slow and always think of how to do it safely. I am currently working on my Kubota L245DT which has a cracked rear axle cover. Several times I have told myself, "That was dumb". Be prepared to stop and start fresh another day.
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
One caution that is often overlooked is to block the front axle so it cannot flop over when the two halves of the tractor are separated. Some chunks of 2x4 will be sufficient, just sip tie them in place between the axle and the frame members and you'll be safe.
If you need parts, Tommy at Affordable Tractor is a great source for them as well as helpful info on the procedures you should follow. You'll definitely want order one of his clutch alignment tools, though if you buy your clutch assembly from him I think he throws one in on the deal. Whatever, it is well worth whatever it costs in order to get the dual stage clutch all aligned to go together properly.
If you need parts, Tommy at Affordable Tractor is a great source for them as well as helpful info on the procedures you should follow. You'll definitely want order one of his clutch alignment tools, though if you buy your clutch assembly from him I think he throws one in on the deal. Whatever, it is well worth whatever it costs in order to get the dual stage clutch all aligned to go together properly.
LD1
Epic Contributor
No I really didnt mean to be disrespectful. But over the years, you would be surprised at some of the questions asked like this, by someone who has never turned a wrench a day in their life, dont even know how to change their own oil, and the only tools they have are a $5 crescent wrench set and a $5 pliers set.
To my knowledge, there isnt any manuals with step by step instructions like there is with cars and the haynes/chilton manuals.
If you are indeed a millwright for the last 30 years, I am sure you are more than capable of doing the job right. And since I dont know the specifics of your model, I cannot offer much advise that you need. Only thing I will say, you should change the pilot bearing while you are in there as well, and good luck.
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Absolutely! YOu'll have no issues that can't be resolved with a question or two, if even that. Once you start looking at it, it becomes very little different that addressing a problem on one of those big presses - identify the issue, plan the the steps, execute the plan, adjust as necessary, salt to taste. Serves one.
SPIKER
Elite Member
there are a few sources of information "Johns Tractor Site" (not sure if it still is up) was one where one of our CTOA /TBN users compiled a lot of good information on these simple tractors with photos etc. Not sure if the CTOA is still up with my limited time I lost track of a lot of the people...
Looks like Johns site is still there, better copy what you want tho as I think a few years back he was not going to fund it when the Domain ran out...
JinmaInfo4
some of the LINKS he has here are old and no longer there but a lot is still there... the Parts INFO has a break down still there and bear in mind this was built maybe 10 years ago so if you have a NEW tractor it may not be as accurate but probably similar construction...
Mark
Looks like Johns site is still there, better copy what you want tho as I think a few years back he was not going to fund it when the Domain ran out...
JinmaInfo4
some of the LINKS he has here are old and no longer there but a lot is still there... the Parts INFO has a break down still there and bear in mind this was built maybe 10 years ago so if you have a NEW tractor it may not be as accurate but probably similar construction...
Mark
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I recommend changing the pilot bearing as part of this job also. Once you unbolt the clutch pack from the flywheel, you can see (and remove) the pilot bearing as well. I also recommend that you buy an entire new clutch pack. There are some bench adjustments you have to make to an out-of-the-box replacement. Alternatively they can be done on the flywheel, but I found that to be harder on the back. If you do it that way, don't forget to put the new pilot bearing in first. Once you have your tractor reassembled and back to work, you now have an OE clutchpack on the bench to rebuild at your leisure. When done, stick it on your parts shelf as a hot spare.
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Keno Tractors
Advertiser
Changing a clutch can be a bit of a chore, having a little guidance always makes things come apart and go back together a lot better. You can also call and speak to our mechanic-he has changed his fair share of clutches and is always ready to give any information you might need. and when you are ready for the clutch you can call me and I can get it taken care of for you.
Nan
Keno Tractors
Parts Dept
Nan
Keno Tractors
Parts Dept
