chainsaw sharpener- would this work ?

[Shimon]

Since reading CT_TREE_GUY's posts about sharpening, I've been using his method with great success. Just use a regular round chainsaw file and the Husky guide and after a little practice you can sharpen a chain in about 3 minutes. Then use a flat file and raker guide when necessary. Fast, simple, easy to carry and you don't need and power (other than elbow grease). That little Husky file guide is small but works great.

 

[OkieG]

I ordered mine from HarborFreight a couple years ago when they were first offered. The price was almost double then, but I feel I've definitely gotten my money's worth.
Back, when I used to pay for it, the guys at the local chain saw shop would sharpen chains right in front of me. Their machine was more heavy duty, but I think it did the same thing as the one I have now.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Renze,
Don't know about shipping costs. Probably not cheap, but it only takes a phone call to find out. I paid $79 for mine a couple years ago, and feel it was worth it. If you spend $30 for shipping it will be the same total cost I had. Don't forget to order a couple replacement grinding wheels.

My personal experience with a Dremel tool (using Dremel's bit, not a Stihl) and a chainsaw file (without a Husky guide) have both been very disappointing. I'm definitely not saying those systems can't work well, but I couldn't make them work for me.

Rather than sharpening dull chains in the field, I carry a couple extra chains, already sharp. If I ever get to where I've dulled 3 chains, I'm ready to quit anyway. Sharpening in the field does have some appeal though. A power inverter plugs into a vehicle's lighter outlet and provides AC current. The chainsaw sharpener draws so liitle power, an inverter would probably power it OK.

Good luck.

OkieG

 

[Mike_C]

I use a dremel tool with chain saw stones from Home Depot. They are cheap...

 

[have_blue]

I use a dremel tool and sharpen by hand... no guide or nothing. Just a good pair of reading glasses and my thumb can tell when it's right. My neighbor has the $49 HF unit, and it works very good. The result is as good as my hand touch-up job, and both are better than factory (Oregon).

If you use your chainsaw a lot, the HF unit would be $49 well spent. Otherwise, a $12 chain can be touched up 3-4 times, then just buy a new one. The name of the game is a good sharp chain at a good price. Either way can work!

If you're a pro, even a real expensive unit could be economical after you sharpen 1000's times.

 

[Slackdaddy]

How about a file ??
I keep the 5/32 or 7/32 file with the gas, everytime I fuel up, I give it a quick pass, worked for the last 20 years.
IMHO anything else is just another gimick.

Slack

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I have tried the hand sharpening without much success for consistent sharpening. If you nick a tooth or two hitting dirt or rocks you really need to get the length of the cutters the same. Nothing beats a decent electric sharpener. It will clamp the chain in place and keep the angles consistent. I looked at the HF ones and figured I would rather spend more money and get less plastic. A good chain sharpener will give you the same angle and tooth length if you set it right. Don't burn your way through the teeth when using the sharpener. Overheating can burn the metal. Just tap the grinder down in increments. I have chains with 8-10 sharpenings on them because I don't take off a lot of the tooth unless it has been dinged up. Don't forget to take down the depth cutter after a few sharpenings as well. Some of the guys take too much of the depth cutter down trying to cut faster which can lead to the saw bogging down or getting pinched more often.

 

[Redbug]

This is the best sharpener I have used. It's all I use, now. It's a manual sharpener. You can set the angle and depth, making each tooth alike. Very accurate.

Oregon at Lowe's: Sure Sharp? File Guide

 

[Egon]

I have one of those or one very similar. It's been sitting in a box on a shelf for years now.

 

[boatyard]

Working as a climber required us to sharpen our saws in the field with a file. A little practice and it works great. A couple of tricks help. Use fresh, clean and sharp files. Bang out the filings by tapping the end of the file on the bar after each tooth. File all of the teeth at each sharpening the same number of file strokes. Nice even full length strokes. Helps to keep the teeth an even length. Just a couple of strokes for a tune-up, 6-8 if it really is banged up.We would grind all of the teeth to a nice even length and set the depth every 4-6 sharpenings back at the shop. I now just keep an extra chain or two and drop it off at my local sharpen shop for the grind and depth set. Chains tend to last longer if you file.
Very handy after our December Ice Storm when no one had power and downed trees as far as the eye could see.