Chainsaw safety

[NewToy]

While going through the manual for a new Stihl 390 saw I see where you are supposed to engage the chain brake before starting then disengage after it's running. I have had alot of saws with the brake and never knew you were supposed to engage it before starting. I guess I've had too many saws without the brake, I'm grandfathered in. (Allowed to start w/o using brake) Does everyone actually use the brake to start?

John

 

[Scooby074]

You SHOULD use the brake when starting. If im starting it on the ground then i dont use the brake. Your also not supposed to drop start a saw,but im guilty of doing that. I make sure the brake is on when doing a drop start.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I would say that I never start with the Chain brake on. I want to keep the cold saw from choking out so I am ready on the throttle. With the brake on it bogs the saw down trying to Rev it up. I do see the reasoning. If you somehow come into contact with the chain either by the saw lurching backwards when you pull on the saw or falling on it. I do occasionally drop start the saw if it is still warm.
That's my story and I am sticking to it.

 

[Deerlope]

While going through the manual for a new Stihl 390 saw I see where you are supposed to engage the chain brake before starting then disengage after it's running. I have had alot of saws with the brake and never knew you were supposed to engage it before starting. I guess I've had too many saws without the brake, I'm grandfathered in. (Allowed to start w/o using brake) Does everyone actually use the brake to start?

John

No matter how many years you have run a chainsaw if you every get a chance to go to a chainsaw saftey class by all means do it. I used them for over 35 years and I go every chance I get . Usually once a year. No matter how old we get we can always learn something, Especially where saftey is concerned.

 

[dmccarty]

I know I'm supposed to use the brake when I start the saw but I don't. My reasoning is that I want the brake to work when I need it not when I start the saw. I don't want to wear out the brake. Now that maybe complete nonsense and not something to worry about but its my story and will stick to it.

I never drop start the saw and I don't like starting the saw on the ground. My left hand is on the handle of the saw when starting with the right hand on the pull cord. I pinch the rear handle between my knees when I pull the cord. Saw ain't going anywhere.

I wish I could find a chain saw class near me. I have looked and could not find any.

Later,
Dan

 

[jimmyj]

I usually don't bother with the brake when I start the saw. However, whenever I am on uneven ground or I have any perception of added risk I do use the brake.

I was very tired once at the end of a long day and I drop started the saw without the brake on. Hit my pants and tore them. Went home after that.

Be safe.

 

[weedpharma]

.........

I was very tired once at the end of a long day and I drop started the saw without the brake on. Hit my pants and tore them. Went home after that.

Be safe.

Been there, done that....once only.

My old saw was well worn and drop started easily. Bought a new saw and tried a drop start. The engine was much tighter and the blade spun down to give me enough blood to remind me not to do it again.

As far as using the brake to start, I cannot see the sense as when it is started, you need to lock the throttle on full as you pull the cord. When the engine fires, the throttle causes the engine to run flat out until you can grab the throttle and release it. Using the brake causes wear on the clutch.

I always start the saw on the ground with my foot in the handle to keep control.

Weedpharma

 

[Shmudda]

The only time I use the brake on a saw is when I just dropped a tree, the saws running and I'm heading into and over the branches to start limbing the thing. Other then that that brake is along for the ride......

I know, not smart but old habits are hard to break!

Craig

 

[jpm1]

I never saw the need for a chain brake till I lost a finger to my saw. The Doctors were able to re-attach it and it works really well now but. . . . they put them on the machine for a reason! Chain saws could care less if there tearing into wood or flesh! there designed to cut and cut they are going to do. I have 3 STIHL saws which get used a lot and I have never had a clutch problem because of using the chain brake. Even if you do replace a clutch it's a heck of a lot cheaper than having a body part re-attached. I was one of the lucky ones and I'm not going to let it ever happen again if I can prevent it!

 

[irwin]

Anyone else wish they put the flat area (handle bottom) on the left side? It's the same with my Echoe saws and my Stihl.
When I start it on the ground, like when it's cold, my steel toe boot doesn't fit in the handle so I have to step over to secure it with my heel. I pull with my right arm, hold the wrap-around handle on the top and put my right heel on the flat face ( handle bottom) It would be easier if I didn't have to straddle it. Maybe it's just my boot that doesn't fit? Oh, I'm also getting old, not as agile

See the flat extension on the handle bottom.

 

[irwin]

I never saw the need for a chain brake till I lost a finger to my saw. The Doctors were able to re-attach it and it works really well now but. . . . they put them on the machine for a reason! Chain saws could care less if there tearing into wood or flesh! there designed to cut and cut they are going to do. I have 3 STIHL saws which get used a lot and I have never had a clutch problem because of using the chain brake. Even if you do replace a clutch it's a heck of a lot cheaper than having a body part re-attached. I was one of the lucky ones and I'm not going to let it ever happen again if I can prevent it!

Thanks for posting that jpm1, I agree safety first and always! Good that you still have the finger. I hear that's a painful healing process. Many people have not been lucky, although I'm sure when you went through it, it didn't feel so lucky.

 

[CurlyDave]

I never saw the need for a chain brake till I lost a finger to my saw...

Right there is the money quote.

I used to use the brake maybe 90% of the time. From here on out is 100%.

My Husky saw was ~$350. Even if it wears out the brake, and the clutch, and the engine, and the bar, and the chain , and the engine of my truck sooner my finger is worth a lot more than that.

 

[Deerlope]

We can all buy a lot of chainsaws and related equipment for what one body part replacement would cost.

 

[jimmysisson]

I never felt safer starting the saw on the ground, nor do I like the chain near the ground. Even when the saw is new (my biggest is 80cc and a bigger one would be harder) the drop overcomes the compression. I feel I have more control over the whereabouts of the saw, not less, when I drop start it. I always pull the rope out to engagement, lift the saw slightly, then drop and pull. I don't start the saw when I'm in among the branches of a downed tree, or anywhere else when I can't stand sure-footed.
Don't use the brake either, for reasons others stated, though that may be because my first few had none. I always wear chaps and helmet, and think about safety, but prefer to drop start as opposed to being bent over awkward.
Not a recommendation, just my habit.
Jim

 

[NewToy]

Anyone else wish they put the flat area (handle bottom) on the left side? It's the same with my Echoe saws and my Stihl.
When I start it on the ground, like when it's cold, my steel toe boot doesn't fit in the handle so I have to step over to secure it with my heel. I pull with my right arm, hold the wrap-around handle on the top and put my right heel on the flat face ( handle bottom) It would be easier if I didn't have to straddle it. Maybe it's just my boot that doesn't fit? Oh, I'm also getting old, not as agile

See the flat extension on the handle bottom.

Sounds like you'd better use that brake. One slip and .....
John

 

[PhilNH5]

I used to cut with a big box Poulan. No safety features at all. I brought a Stihl just to have safety features. The Stihl was 2.5 times as expensive as the Poulan so you can be sure I use the safety features.

Before starting the saw I give my wrist a flick while holding on to the front handle and use the back of my hand to set the chain brake on. Takes no thought and no time. I often start the saw for my wife who bucks to firewood lenght. She knows to pull the hand guard to undo the brake.

This practice works well for the both of us.

Phil

 

[SpringHollow]

I had used the same Stihl chainsaws for 20 years putting the brake on every time i start it and every time i am walking over logs etc. Never have had to replace a clutch (worn out lots of chains and bars but no clutch). The second the saw starts, i pull the trigger to release the choke, then release the brake and work the saw throttle some.

Ken

 

[BrentD]

With battery and electric motor technology being what they are nowadays it looks like somebody would come up with a simple electric-start chain saw.

 

[turnkey4099]

With battery and electric motor technology being what they are nowadays it looks like somebody would come up with a simple electric-start chain saw.

Not likely to happen, at least on professional grade saws. Those people fight for every ounce they can save in weight. I am no pro but use my saws (4 now) a lot. Bought the last one last week and the model I bought depended a lot on the weight.

Harry K

 

[NewToy]

What do you guy's think of the anti/low kickback blades they put on saws these days? The first thing I do is install a more aggressive blade on the saw. I don't know how big a taboo that is, they just cut sooo much faster.

John