Chainsaw safety

[irwin]

I never saw the need for a chain brake till I lost a finger to my saw. The Doctors were able to re-attach it and it works really well now but. . . . they put them on the machine for a reason! Chain saws could care less if there tearing into wood or flesh! there designed to cut and cut they are going to do. I have 3 STIHL saws which get used a lot and I have never had a clutch problem because of using the chain brake. Even if you do replace a clutch it's a heck of a lot cheaper than having a body part re-attached. I was one of the lucky ones and I'm not going to let it ever happen again if I can prevent it!

Thanks for posting that jpm1, I agree safety first and always! Good that you still have the finger. I hear that's a painful healing process. Many people have not been lucky, although I'm sure when you went through it, it didn't feel so lucky.

 

[CurlyDave]

I never saw the need for a chain brake till I lost a finger to my saw...

Right there is the money quote.

I used to use the brake maybe 90% of the time. From here on out is 100%.

My Husky saw was ~$350. Even if it wears out the brake, and the clutch, and the engine, and the bar, and the chain , and the engine of my truck sooner my finger is worth a lot more than that.

 

[Deerlope]

We can all buy a lot of chainsaws and related equipment for what one body part replacement would cost.

 

[jimmysisson]

I never felt safer starting the saw on the ground, nor do I like the chain near the ground. Even when the saw is new (my biggest is 80cc and a bigger one would be harder) the drop overcomes the compression. I feel I have more control over the whereabouts of the saw, not less, when I drop start it. I always pull the rope out to engagement, lift the saw slightly, then drop and pull. I don't start the saw when I'm in among the branches of a downed tree, or anywhere else when I can't stand sure-footed.
Don't use the brake either, for reasons others stated, though that may be because my first few had none. I always wear chaps and helmet, and think about safety, but prefer to drop start as opposed to being bent over awkward.
Not a recommendation, just my habit.
Jim

 

[NewToy]

Anyone else wish they put the flat area (handle bottom) on the left side? It's the same with my Echoe saws and my Stihl.
When I start it on the ground, like when it's cold, my steel toe boot doesn't fit in the handle so I have to step over to secure it with my heel. I pull with my right arm, hold the wrap-around handle on the top and put my right heel on the flat face ( handle bottom) It would be easier if I didn't have to straddle it. Maybe it's just my boot that doesn't fit? Oh, I'm also getting old, not as agile

See the flat extension on the handle bottom.

Sounds like you'd better use that brake. One slip and .....
John

 

[PhilNH5]

I used to cut with a big box Poulan. No safety features at all. I brought a Stihl just to have safety features. The Stihl was 2.5 times as expensive as the Poulan so you can be sure I use the safety features.

Before starting the saw I give my wrist a flick while holding on to the front handle and use the back of my hand to set the chain brake on. Takes no thought and no time. I often start the saw for my wife who bucks to firewood lenght. She knows to pull the hand guard to undo the brake.

This practice works well for the both of us.

Phil

 

[SpringHollow]

I had used the same Stihl chainsaws for 20 years putting the brake on every time i start it and every time i am walking over logs etc. Never have had to replace a clutch (worn out lots of chains and bars but no clutch). The second the saw starts, i pull the trigger to release the choke, then release the brake and work the saw throttle some.

Ken

 

[BrentD]

With battery and electric motor technology being what they are nowadays it looks like somebody would come up with a simple electric-start chain saw.

 

[turnkey4099]

With battery and electric motor technology being what they are nowadays it looks like somebody would come up with a simple electric-start chain saw.

Not likely to happen, at least on professional grade saws. Those people fight for every ounce they can save in weight. I am no pro but use my saws (4 now) a lot. Bought the last one last week and the model I bought depended a lot on the weight.

Harry K

 

[NewToy]

What do you guy's think of the anti/low kickback blades they put on saws these days? The first thing I do is install a more aggressive blade on the saw. I don't know how big a taboo that is, they just cut sooo much faster.

John