Chainsaw help

   / Chainsaw help #1  

Eric_Phillips

Platinum Member
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
714
Location
Rochester, NY
Tractor
FarmTrac 270DTC
I inherited a Homelite 240 chainsaw. I was out cutting up some brush and logs to be hauled away with my tractor, obligatory tractor reference. Well it turns out the chain was not getting any oil. There was some oil dripping down the front of the saw. I opened up the top of the saw and found what I think is the oiler. The first pic shows the dripping and the second shows what I think is the oiler circled in red. The two tubes coming out look cracked but I could not see active leaking when I started the saw. Is this the oiler and has anyone tried to replace these tubes? I did clear the ports in the bar to make sure that was not the problem.
 

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   / Chainsaw help #2  
Take the side of the saw off where the bar is and take off the bar and chain. Then start up the saw making sure there is oil in the tank. Once it is running rev it up for a bit and see if you have oil dripping out of the port. If you do good. What that means is the oil hole in the chainsaw bar is clogged up possibly. Take a small nail or thin screwdriver and run it down the chain groove. There is often a small hole by the back of the bar where it bolts to the saw. Oil should go in there and lube the bar. Now if there is no oil dripping out the next easy thing to check is the oil tank. See if you can hook the oil pick up in the tank. Carefully pull it out to look for it being clogged or the oil line cracked. If those look ok then your oil pump may be cracked or the hose to it damaged. That would involve taking off the clutch.
Another thing to look at is see if it has a screw hidden away topside or on the bottom to adjust the oil feed rate. Crank that up and down and then start it. That might prime the pump sort of.
You did say you cleaned the bar ports sorry about that. And yes if you see cracks in those lines then replace them. Still check inside the oil tank for the hose in there being shot. If the feed line is cracked you won't see them leaking at all.
 
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   / Chainsaw help #3  
. Well it turns out the chain was not getting any oil. There was some oil dripping down the front of the saw.


You probably know this but the easiest way to check for bar oil is to hold the saw{tip of bar} close to a piece of wood and rev it up. As long as the bar is getting oil it will splatter a fine line on the wood. With oil dripping off the front I would think it was a clogged bar{???}

I opened up the top of the saw and found what I think is the oiler. The first pic shows the dripping and the second shows what I think is the oiler circled in red. The two tubes coming out look cracked but I could not see active leaking when I started the saw.

If they're craked you might as well start there and replace them?

Is this the oiler and has anyone tried to replace these tubes?

I'd have to see your saw in person, but usually they're not that hard to spilt and/or change hoses.

I did clear the ports in the bar to make sure that was not the problem.

How about the bar itself? where the chain rides?
 
   / Chainsaw help #4  
Just looking at your photo's, that doesn't look like how the bar is oiled, but I'm just guessing since I'm not familar with your saw.
 
   / Chainsaw help #5  
I think the pipes you are idicating are part of the feul system, i do not think that it is anything to do with the chain oiling system. This wil be a simple oil pump driven off the crankshaft or similar.
Take the bar off and check the oil holes, they should lead straight into the chain guide. Have you actually looked at the chain after reving the engine some saws don't use much oil and hardly throw any off (my new one is like that).
Another tell tale sign that the saw isn't oiling correctly would be the chain guide, this will overheat without oil.
 
   / Chainsaw help #7  
I agree, my Stihl doesn't throw much oil, but it seems to work O.K.

The stihl has the adjustment on some of their models to turn oil flow up. That was the 1st thing I noticed when I switched to stihl, there bar oil consumtion.
 
   / Chainsaw help #8  
From what I can see that is part of the oiling system. Some of the older Homelites used a crankcase pulse system to activate the chain oiler. Anything that high up on the saw is either fuel or oil, and the carb doesn't need anything else but itself to provide fuel.

There is probably a diaphragm arrangement, with a pulse line going to the crankcase and a second line going to the oil feed for the bar and chain.

You may have a pulse line issue, a bad diaphragm, a stuck check valve (likely), a pickup issue, or a kinked or cracked hose going to the bar or oil tank.

Lots of possibilities, one or more of which is probably where the problem lies.

A side note, I collected old chainsaws at one time, still look out for unusual stuff. I hate to say it, but the old saws are better as wall hangers or occasional runners for nostalgia. The improvements in anti-vibration and the advent of chain brakes really does make the newer saws safer and more user-friendly.

My 2 cents,

Chilly
 
   / Chainsaw help #9  
Yes that is the oil pump on the homelite 240 and yes you should replace the lines if they are cracked. Check a site called arboristsite.com for helpful advice. I used to have two of these saws, but never had to replace the oil lines, they never dry-rotted/cracked, but they are just like the fuel line, if they show wear replace them before it's too late.
 
   / Chainsaw help #10  
""A side note, I collected old chainsaws at one time, still look out for unusual stuff. I hate to say it, but the old saws are better as wall hangers or occasional runners for nostalgia. The improvements in anti-vibration and the advent of chain brakes really does make the newer saws safer and more user-friendly."""

I have to agree its time to hang your saw on the wall,in my business we retire a power saw in 6 months,however as a casual user I would suspect a 5 year life....just my 2 cents....now I duck....:):);)
 
   / Chainsaw help #11  
The stihl has the adjustment on some of their models to turn oil flow up. That was the 1st thing I noticed when I switched to stihl, there bar oil consumtion.

I have mine turned all the way up for maximum oil flow and it still uses less oil than my dad's older jonsrud with no adjustment.
 
   / Chainsaw help #12  
I have mine turned all the way up for maximum oil flow and it still uses less oil than my dad's older jonsrud with no adjustment.

I have an older 044 with the adjustable flow rate, it is set at maximum as well. Not as much flow as I'd like for a longer bar and chain, but the Stihl's are known for that. It doesn't overheat the bar now with a 20 inch bar, but a 30 or 36 might be a problem.

One feature it has that I like is that the oiler only operates when the chain is moving, there's a dog on the oiler that engages a slot on the clutch drum. Until the drum turns, no oil is pumped. Nice not to have a puddle of oil under an idling saw.

Chilly
 
   / Chainsaw help #13  
Oldtrout makes a great point. If an old saw doesn't have modern features such as a chain brake, trash it! Not worth the risk as far as I'm concerned.
 
   / Chainsaw help #14  
I inherited a Homelite 240 chainsaw. I was out cutting up some brush and logs to be hauled away with my tractor, obligatory tractor reference. Well it turns out the chain was not getting any oil. There was some oil dripping down the front of the saw. I opened up the top of the saw and found what I think is the oiler. The first pic shows the dripping and the second shows what I think is the oiler circled in red. The two tubes coming out look cracked but I could not see active leaking when I started the saw. Is this the oiler and has anyone tried to replace these tubes? I did clear the ports in the bar to make sure that was not the problem.

One is the fuel line, the other the gas. If the 240 was a derivitive of the super 2 line, there is no oil pump. The oil pushed thru with pressure. On the Super 2, there was a little red cap on the end of the oil tube within the tank. This needs to be there for you to get oil. See if this has come loose within the tank if not there. If the tubes are cracked enough to leak, again no pressure so no oil.
 
   / Chainsaw help #15  
Oldtrout makes a great point. If an old saw doesn't have modern features such as a chain brake, trash it! Not worth the risk as far as I'm concerned.

Naaa don't trash it, give it to me :thumbsup: :p. I grew up in a time when we didn't have all these save yourself laws. We actually learned respect for what we were running:cool:. I've also seen what kick back can do even if you have a chainbreak etc... Skin and the human body are quite soft compared to trees :drool:.
 

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