Chains vs Straps (yes, again)

[hemiguy]

No question here that I'm needing to switch to chains and binders. The only question is what do I need and how to use it. I haul my JD2520 TLB on a 6.5x16 7000lb wood decked tandem axle trailer (some pictures are in the trailers & tow rigs thread) 2520 weighs in around 4000lb. Currently using one 10k ratchet strap per corner hooked on to D-rings bolted down through the deck AND trailer frame.
No problems yet but the straps are getting a little worn and I'm not buying new ones.

So is one GR70,5/16" chain (load limit 4700) each for front and rear and one binder each going to be enough? My plan is to put a 3/8" grab hook (rated 5400) on one end of each chain to attach to one D-ring, pass the chain through something solid on the tractor front & rear (BH subframe is beefy) and binder down to the D-ring on the other side. And yes my D-rings are mounted to angle the chains towards the front and rear of the trailer to keep things from shifting. Does this sound like a good plan? Are ratchet binders preferred over lever ones? Again, looks like I'm looking for ones rated 5400lb.

I'll admit I was too lazy to search previous threads on the subject. Any advice welcome.

 

[MrJimi]

I have lots of lever load binders and they will pop open if the lever is not tied down, I hate them, either to tight or to loose. I now use all ratchet binders and they will not loosen up and if they do, just give them another few cranks and walk away
I get mine from Harborfreight and they are rated for 9,200 pounds each and I use their chain also, you have better chain than I use.
HF ratchet load binders and HF chain here
I would tie it down in 4 corners ( 4 binders & 4 chains ) at a 45 degree angle or close, pulling out and down
Just me, when I tie something down it could roll over and stay there
Jim

 

[chh]

I think it is really personal preference on the style of binder. I have several of both, but prefer the lever style. I generally use a 30" pipe to break them over them wrap any extra chain around the binder. I have never had one pop open. I live a 1 1/2 miles off the highway and always stop and recheck everything at that stop sign. If it hasn't shifted or gotten any slack by there (our roads are rough) its not going to.

 

[john_bud]

The "law" says that you only need 2 chains/binders on wheeled loads 10,000 and under. State laws may up the requirements and a few states do require 4 chains/binders on all wheeled loads.

I use 2 chains with ratchet binders. Not the imported junk, but good high quality steel made in USA binders with G70 stamped chain.

The lever lock binders work, but you have to know how to use them. All binders loosen up as the load shifts, so you always have to stop and tighten after the first 15 min or so. The ratchet ones are easier to snug with just a few clicks and off you go. (Use that stop to also check wheel bearings for warmth!)

jb

 

[em14]

I prefer chain with ratchet binders ... This is where I got mine ... Chain, Chain Supplies, Binder Chains, Lifting Slings and Hooks
Leo

 

[TimC]

I do something similar to what you are talking about, but I only use one Binder. What I do is I pull the tractor a few inches forward of where I want it to sit, hook the chain through the front frame of the tractor to the trailer, then back into it. Then secure the rear chain. I also use the lever type binders, and the key is using a 3' or so pipe to crank them closed. I also started out with straps, but they wear entirely too much. Every corner they touch starts a rough spot on the strap with wind flapping the straps.

I have been much happier with the chains than the straps.

Tim

 

[WildWest]

Im not a real big fan of those floor mount d rings ive seen then rip apart.

But on the binder opening up yeah use a cheat pipe but tie it shut with bailing wire also ive hit bumps and had them pop open tie them closed and i also run the wire in the chain and tie it to the trailer just in case.

 

[grnspot110]

Be sure to check State regulations as to how many chains, some states differ. I use one 5/16" gr70 chain on the front center and one on the back. The back one is hooked to tie ring on one side, run through a draw-bar clevis, to a tie ring on the other side.
As far as binders, it's a matter of personal preference, I use lever 'boomers' and have never had one come loose. They have to be good quality and TIGHT I only recently started using a cheater pipe (getting older & weaker), but use whatever it takes! I generally have a long enough chain to rap it around the boomer a time or two. I do have one ratchet for tight spots.

I've have hauled for a dealer and only lost one item, a IH 1206, (park lock failed while loading) loaded it back on & got out of there! ~~ grnspot110

 

[powerstroke444e]

Using straps has its place as does using chains. One should not try to angle the chains to much or try to pull the tractor in two with the chains or straps. You should keep the chain as short as possible because if your in a collision you will put all the load on one chain. If you keep the chains just a little off center the load will not move much if one chain should fail. As a note when hauling tractors that are larger you can chain all you want but I have seen someone break an axle using 1/2 chain & binder on a little lawn tractor.
I use both straps & chain on my M5400 with loader & equipment 2 chains & binders with one strap on the equipment on the back.

 

[RobertN]

I do something similar to what you are talking about, but I only use one Binder. What I do is I pull the tractor a few inches forward of where I want it to sit, hook the chain through the front frame of the tractor to the trailer, then back into it. Then secure the rear chain. I also use the lever type binders, and the key is using a 3' or so pipe to crank them closed. I also started out with straps, but they wear entirely too much. Every corner they touch starts a rough spot on the strap with wind flapping the straps.

I have been much happier with the chains than the straps.

Tim

I used to do that. Not any more. Had it loosen up... And, if one corner breaks, that end of the tractor is loose. At that point, the whole tractor is loose.

It's not much more $$$ to put a binder on each corner. I often use only two chains, but set each corner so that it is bound. It leaves some loose chain in the middle of the trailer, but keeps my 20' chains intact for other stuff.

When it is bound at each corner, if one corner does fail, you still have three corners holding.

Even though it is a little additional cost for four binders, that cost is tiny compared to a $15000 tractor and $2000 trailer. Even when I hual my $2000 antique tractor, that's $200 worth of chain and binders on $4000 worth of equipment. That's only 0.1% of the overall investment for the chain and binders.

and, much like I have found many uses for the trailers, I frequently use the extra binders for other loads too.

 

[SpringHollow]

I have chain hooks welded to my tractor (easy to do when the tractor is made out of thick plate steel) and do like RobertN. As he said, it eeps the chains long for other uses and with 4 binders, the tractor is very secure (another chain and binder on bucket or other implement).

Ken

 

[bx23barry]

I have never really understood using 4 binders. What good is a binder on a corner when all the other corners are loose? I guess a crawler is pretty tough to move with a binder but any wheeled thing is pretty easy to tighten up with binders on only one end (Put the chains on loose, release the brakes, Tighten the chains then reset the brakes). And ya really do want to try and pull the load apart if ya want it to stay in one place. Chains should X on two opposing sides. At least that is the way I taught it for Calif dept of Trans.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

"The law" is more about how officers INTERPRET the written law than the printed words themselves. Over the years, I've managed to befriend a couple Ky Commercial Vehicle Enforcement Officers. From time to time, I'll give them a call and request their "opinion". I also believe in "over-kill" securing loads. Forget bare minimum requirements. With the blessing of "THE MAN", and more than adaquate chaining, there's little to worry about.

Even if you're NON-commercial, the "DOT" guys are well versed in the laws regarding trailering, hauling, ect. They are tasked in keeping the highways safe for the purpose of interstate commerce. That usually includes close monitoring of ALL vehicles that share the roads with commercial vehicles. Many local police departments will offer a citizen the same free advice too. If they aren't prepared to give their "ruling", generally, they'll be able to point you in the right direction to get that information.

Police respond well to being asked what it takes to keep them satisfied. Never met one yet that wasn't willing to help when they had the opportunity. While it isn't my goal to "kiss up" to them, it goes a long way towards finding out what it takes to get along with the first line of enforcement.

In the end, MY opinion, or YOUR opinion of what the law says matters little if the POLICE and JUDGE don't agree. You may "beat the rap" in court, but isn't it better to simply avoid conflict with the system?

 

[SpringHollow]

Here in NY, I know someone who was ticketed by DOT for not having 4 chains and binders on his JD 770 and a chain and binder on his 3 pt backhoe. Did not get a ticket for not having a chain and binder on his loader. It cost him a lot of money because they decided he needed DOT #'s as well since he was going to do work for a friend even though he was not charging for the work.

Ken

 

[john_bud]

ksimolo,

Yeah, I am pretty sure NY and CA are two of the states that require 4 binders on all wheeled loads. There are probably others, so it's wise to check.

There has been a lot of chat about the USDOT # deal. My opinion is that the state politicians are using it with a "generous" interpretation of revenue to generate lots and lots of money. Not having the numbers can run upwards of $1500 depending on what all you don't have that they are whacking you for. A nice officer will give you a fix it ticket and give you time to comply. (That's another strong reason to ALWAYS be nice to the blue uniform.)

I haven't had any run ins with the vehicle enforcement officers, but have had them run up on my bumper and eyeball things real good. Using transport chain and rachet binders gives them a warm and fuzzy that you may actually know what you are doing. An old timer I know always says that you should at least LOOK like you know what you are doing. Chain holding equipment looks better than yellow straps - IMHO.

 

[RobertN]

I have never really understood using 4 binders. What good is a binder on a corner when all the other corners are loose? I guess a crawler is pretty tough to move with a binder but any wheeled thing is pretty easy to tighten up with binders on only one end (Put the chains on loose, release the brakes, Tighten the chains then reset the brakes). And ya really do want to try and pull the load apart if ya want it to stay in one place. Chains should X on two opposing sides. At least that is the way I taught it for Calif dept of Trans.

My take on it, is that is what CHP told me when I contacted them. And, if the tractor is chained and bound at all four corners, if on corner fails, the other three should hold. There could be a beak at two opposing corners, and still it would hold.

The local tractor shop here was transporting a customers tractor a year ago. A guy lost control on a corner, and t-boned the trailer real bad. Broke the axles on one side of the trailer. Broke one of the binders. Came up on the trailer, and did a job on one rear wheel of the tractor. The other three chains and binders held the load securely to the trailer. The trailer, rear quarter of the F450 did not fae so well, but the load held.

And, as I mentioned above, it is really cheap insurance. Wehn I tow my Kubota, I have about $35k of rolling stock on the road. A couple extra binders and chain is $100-150. Cheap insurance when the bad stuff happens.

I have to look at home for the email; I have posted it here before. CHP replied to my email request for information; they said the tractor had to be restrained on all four corners.

 

[gemini5362]

I agree with all the posts here. I also use chain. But to be honest the load ratings of the wide straps are higher than any of the common chain ratings ( 3/8 or 5/16) I also believe that straps are used by airlines to put things in plain. Perhaps someone with air force experience could help me out here but do they not use straps to tie things down in transport planes.

 

[RobertN]

I have to look at home for the email; I have posted it here before. CHP replied to my email request for information; they said the tractor had to be restrained on all four corners.

Dear Mr. RobertN:

The California Highway Patrol (CHP), Commercial Vehicle Section received your e-mail regarding the proper way to secure your small tractor to a trailer.

Section 29004 (a) (3) of the California Vehicle Code (VC) states in part, any vehicle transported on a conventional trailer shall be secured by at least four tiedown chains, straps, or an equivalent device. In addition, it is your responsibility to ensure the vehicle is safely secured for transportation on the highway. The type of securement device you use is only limited to its ability to safely secure the load. Therefore, a ratchet style cargo strap may be utilized to secure your load.

Thank you for the opportunity to assist you in this matter. Should you desire further information, please do not hesitate to contact my staff at (916) 445-1865.

Sincerely,

Commander
Commercial Vehicle Section

 

[Mahana79]

I agree with all the posts here. I also use chain. But to be honest the load ratings of the wide straps are higher than any of the common chain ratings ( 3/8 or 5/16) I also believe that straps are used by airlines to put things in plain. Perhaps someone with air force experience could help me out here but do they not use straps to tie things down in transport planes.

Everything that we put on a C-130 is fastened to the pallet with 10k cargo straps. We do have chains availabe but the loadmasters dont like them. The reasoning i have been told on many occasions is that the loadmasters can cut a cargo strap if it gets hung up during a cargo drop. the drop continues on schedule. takes too long to free up a stuck chain and the mission gets aborted. Not good for the number crunchers.

 

[john_bud]

Dear Mr. RobertN:

The California Highway Patrol (CHP), Commercial Vehicle Section received your e-mail regarding the proper way to secure your small tractor to a trailer.

Section 29004 (a) (3) of the California Vehicle Code (VC) states in part, any vehicle transported on a conventional trailer shall be secured by at least four tiedown chains, straps, or an equivalent device. In addition, it is your responsibility to ensure the vehicle is safely secured for transportation on the highway. The type of securement device you use is only limited to its ability to safely secure the load. Therefore, a ratchet style cargo strap may be utilized to secure your load.

Thank you for the opportunity to assist you in this matter. Should you desire further information, please do not hesitate to contact my staff at (916) 445-1865.

Sincerely,

Commander
Commercial Vehicle Section

RobertN,



Careful you don't get a large ticket for failure to secure. Some officers will judge "its ability to safely secure the load" the same way the coast guard or DNR judges a life jackets ability to save your life. That is any cut or tear or signs of visible wear or even oil contamination -- DISQUALIFIES -- it.

That's my biggest knock against straps, they are only good until you get a teeny tiny cut or some fraying. Then they are no longer up to rated capacity and are deemed junk by the man in blue. Some may let you slide where others won't. Sort of like playing the lottery. A chain can be dirty, oily, even have surface rust and still have "its ability to safely secure the load" intact. So, yeah, you can use straps, but you have to watch them like a hawk!


jb