Chains and binders

[HRS]

What would be an appropriate grade chain and style of binder to anchor tractor to trailer. The tractor would be a TC30 and the trailer would be 18ft.

Do you run one in center front and one center back?
If implement is attached, do you go over or under it?
What do you think of the come-along binders made in China?
Is there a rachet, cable style, binder anyone is using?

 

[Highbeam]

This question is loaded with opinions. You will not get a clear answer as everyone likes what they've got and think it's the "right" way to do it. Even the DOT guidelines allow for some flexibility. So I'll tell you what I use and what I would do next time. Start keeping a tally.

I use 3/8" G43 chain, made in China, 4 of them, one for each corner of the tractor and each one with it's own ratcheting binder from China. I run the rear two chains to different parts of the drawbar assembly and the front two over the bucket and to the frame of the tractor. I do not chain down the box blade on the rear 3ph. See the photo of the front.

If I could do it again the only thing I would change is the G43 chain to G70 chain just for a little more peace of mind and since some reputable folks here make decent arguments for G70 over G43. The difference is not enough for me to trash my G43 chain though since the working load limit is very far above the requirements I've seen from the DOT and they have been trouble free.

Nothing wrong with China anything, this is a global economy and I have had nothing but good experience with Chinese products or even my Korean tractor.

My tractor weighs 4000-4500 and my 18' trailer weighs 2500. I trailer it often.

 

[George2615]

As Highbeam said there are many opinions as to the grade of chain to use. The general rule is 4 chains (one at each corner) plus each implement should be secured as well. All the sites I have visited re: load securing list all types / of securement material such as rope, wire cable, web straps, and chain can be used to secure the load. Also listed is different sizes and thickness and the weight load limit of each. I interpret the info on these sites to mean any of these items can be used to secure a load as long as the weight load limit is greater than the load. Many will have different opinions on this. I use 3/8" grade 43 chain which has a high working load capacity and ratchet binders for 3/8" chain. My suggestion is if you need to buy get grade 70 chain and binders.

 

[RodgerF]

I too use the 3/8ths chain and ratchet binders. I use 3 chains for the tractor and one for each impliment. I run 2 on the front axle and one on the rear. For the rear I attach it to the trailer, around the hitch pin mounted to the diffential then to the other side of the trailer. Never run the chains straight forward or back, always run them at an angle to the centerline.

Rodger

 

[KiotiJohn]

I too use 3/8 G70 chinese chains and ratchet binders. I do 4 point with two angles front, and two angles back, in essence, pulling against one another for a more secure fix.

If I have an implment that is not attached to the 3pt, I strap that with ratcheting straps, as concensus is, chains for rolling stock, and straps for non-rolling stock.

Mileage definitely varies with this subject.
John

 

[PapaPerk]

Buy Grade 70 3/8" Transport Chain. Buy American made chain, hooks, and binders. Don't buy cheap safety gear! My binders came from Northern Tool. They have cheap and good binders. Make sure they are American made. I've hauled my Kubota 3830 with loader more than 3000 miles without issue. Hauling a tractor can be done safely and reliabley if done properly. Make sure you secure tractor with a chain and binder at each corner. And make sure the chains are tight. Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[rambler]

DOt wants a chain at each corner, & the implement it's own chain. Depends where you go how fussy they are...

--->Paul

 

[john_bud]

DOT also wants the chain and binders to be marked as transport chain. They can ticket and fine you if it is not. They can get yippitty with you about it, and they always win...

Just remember the old adage, "at least look like you know what you are doing".

Around here, they are also checking weights of stuff that never got stopped before. Farmers, race cars on trailers, etc. I hear it's a national deal. If you tow, stay under your registered limit and the trailers listed max. If you tow 10,001 pounds you have to have a CDL class A.

jb

 

[Dargo]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I too use 3/8 G70 chinese chains and ratchet binders. I do 4 point with two angles front, and two angles back, in essence, pulling against one another for a more secure fix.

If I have an implment that is not attached to the 3pt, I strap that with ratcheting straps, as concensus is, chains for rolling stock, and straps for non-rolling stock. )</font>

Ditto! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I did "get cheap" and bought Chinese made 3/8 grade 70 chain for securing implements, but I've lately used the nylon straps to secure the implements to prevent scratching them badly. I use the rule of grade 70 chain for rolling items and ratcheting binders for non-rolling items. I consider the implements as 'non-rolling'.

 

[HRS]

Thanks guys. I wasn't trying to be cheap, it was that I could not find any binders that did not have China stamped on them, so I was wondering how good they were, seems that that is about all that is sold. I will try N'tool. I've been hearing their commercial for a couple of weeks now, so I know that we finally have one.

So this is what I am thinking. I'll go with a chain and rachet binder at each corner, put a strap running over top of implement attached to sides of trailer. This implement will also be attached to 3-pt hitch. If I drop an implement on the front of the trailer, I'll use a couple of heavy straps on it. I like the idea of the straps for the implements. I was wondering how I'd keep from scratching and bending them up with chain. However, I was afraid of the straps due to Dargo's experience. But maybe for a simple 500 lb implement, a few straps with a working load of 3500 lbs might be OK. Correct me if I am wrong. Going to hopefully start collecting my tie-downs tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Runk]

Be sure to enquire as to the shipping costs from Northern Tool.
I would shop at Grainger for comparison pricing, their shipping in my experience is alot more resonable.
They supply made in USA chains and binders. At least they did some minths ago.

 

[Thorndike]

HRS; I buy all my chains and binders from AW Direct, US made and Gr70 only for tieing down wheeled loads. Do a Google, I think you'll like this place. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[HRS]

OK, I guess I'm worrying myself over nothing. This morning I rode up to the dealer and sure enough, he had chain and rachet binders, all American steel. This guy even has the heavy duty rachet straps, so I'm good to go in this department. However, I came home empty handed. He has gotten the tractor and equipment in that I asked for, but the trailer is still being built. Maybe next week? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[texredneck]

SO heres what I do...
Im a welder/fabricator. My grandfather is a hobby farmer who has all but retired even from that...hes 81...and a retired electrical engineer who worked as a doodlebugger for GSI/ Texas Instruments for 34 years. He is a perfectionist in many rights, and in others who couldnt give a hoot. But I made a suggestion from my experiences and hes eaten it up. You dont like to tear your good implements up with chains? Take an old rubber hose...Split it down the middle. Runa lil duct tape on it. Just enough to keep it on the chain where you want it, but add it on as youre doing your tie down. It will help protect your paint job, as long as you keep the taping to a min I aint see a problem with DOT man as he can see the condition of the chain. And once on there stuff dont usually come loose. If it does, well you gonna have a lot more trouble than a scratched box blade.
Anyway, I use this and it works. Good use of old rubber hose too.

 

[kingoflawns]

Here in massachusetts you need dot approved chain & binders, you need 4 of each, oposing each other in direction of pull. If your truck is over 10000 lbs gvw, you need both a state and federal inspection sticker and a current health card. The trailer must have brakes and a battery with break away switch to activate the brakes should the trailer separate from the truck! Trust me on this, they towed me off the highway last october for non compliance Im completely compliant now!

 

[Builder]

Check out my chain gaurds in my "home brewed ideas" in my truck & tractor photos. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I think you'll like 'em and i ain't no whut cha call engineer neither! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Av8r3400]

Grade 70 is the ONLY legal binder chain for wheeled loads in the United States. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about. You may not be ticketed for G43, but you are operating on borrowed time.

Don't go cheap on safety equipment.

 

[HRS]

Good idea. I like it! Being the gardener that I am, I have many feet of old hose rolled up. Might have a new use for it now. Thanks.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't buy it. I've never seen G70 required, noone else has been able to deliver either so show us your cards. The other thread showed the federal DOT requirements and all grades of chain were listed, the WLL is the key.

I'm all ears if you can show something federal or in my state requiring G70 and G70 only.

 

[john_bud]

HB,

I am not certain, but I think that the DOT requires the chain be grade stamped and that the grade used matches the load being bound. That's what I was told when I got my chains anyway.

A strap may not be legal to hold down a wheeled load for a commercial hauler. But I haven't heard of any non-comercial person getting busted for a 4wheeler or motorcycle being bound by straps. They do have wheels, right?

On a side note: Can anyone point me to the WI information on load binding? I want to see if we have the same 4 corner, 4 chain, 4 binder requirement. (I only use 2 chains, but do go across and ratchet bind for a 4 way pull.)


thanks,
jb