Chains....Age old question...need some advice

MAD777 · Oct 12, 2020

River19 said:
I have seen people recommend these guys elsewhere.....would love to chat with them.....their site seems like a business to business company, is there someone specific to contact there? I'll have to look into them more as I would love to shop local....and pick up is no problem.

Just give them a call. It's a big warehouse and they will take you in, grab the chains with a forklift load them into your vehicle.

crazyal · Oct 13, 2020

I have studded chains similar to the OFA and Aquiline Talon chains. You are going to pay more up front for them but they are worth it. I only run chains on the rear tires and have plenty of steep hills I go up. They are still holding up well after 10 years of use. As long as you've got the clearance it's what I would recommend. I have V bar type chains on my dually dump truck and the V's wore out pretty quickly turning them into just chains. IMO this is one of those pay once now or pay more in the long run when you are forced to replace them much sooner.

River19 · Oct 13, 2020

crazyal said:
I have studded chains similar to the OFA and Aquiline Talon chains. You are going to pay more up front for them but they are worth it. I only run chains on the rear tires and have plenty of steep hills I go up. They are still holding up well after 10 years of use. As long as you've got the clearance it's what I would recommend. I have V bar type chains on my dually dump truck and the V's wore out pretty quickly turning them into just chains. IMO this is one of those pay once now or pay more in the long run when you are forced to replace them much sooner.

Thanks for the suggestion as well............what is the difference between studded and v-bar? Intuitively I can assume the chain links might have studs vs. the extra "V" spike on the v-bar.......I seem to see more v-bar and "regular" chain offerings vs. "studded".

I'm thinking since my chains will never see pavement I shouldn't have excessive wear on whatever I choose to go with.

oosik · Oct 13, 2020

If I found that chains were needed here. I'd definitely consider purchasing studded chains - something like the Aquiline Talons or similar.

Experience with heavy tractor V-bar chains was very positive. But they are so VERY heavy and my experience shows they are tough to instal. I would hope that studded chains give adequate traction and are somewhat lighter.

Thankfully - with the larger, heavier tractor I've never needed chains.

LouNY · Oct 13, 2020

The Euro style studded chain puts a continuous pattern down on the ground with the studs providing the maximum traction,
the Euro style can be found without the studs but are seldom seen or used.

The continuous chain pattern running around the tire with the studs takes the bounce and rough ride out of the chains.
n the picture of the Oliver with two link spacing every other cross chain is a v bar reinforced and the others are just a street twist link,
these were a combination of two different sets I had bought just twisted links first as they were much cheaper.
I got what I paid for, so then I bought the set of bar reinforced which did provide more traction but not a real lot more.
I then combined the two sets to make a set with two link spacing and it was better then previously.
The Euro style on the 574 were the first set of them that I purchased, the difference in traction was unbelievable.
After seeing the difference my brother over on the farm ended up getting several sets for the tractors we feed with in the winter.
The Branson has two different brands of the Euro chains after the first winter with her I very seldom mount the front ones any more,
if a major ice storm is forecast I do throw them on.
This style of chain provides the best traction combined with the smothest ride on pavement or frozen ground of any chain I have used.

oosik · Oct 13, 2020

That's good to hear LouNY. It's for sure - V-bar ladder chains are NOT the best ride - - anywhere. Maybe they are OK on very soft ground or muddy conditions. On hard or frozen ground - they can shake the fillings out of your teeth.

LouNY · Oct 13, 2020

oosik said:
That's good to hear LouNY. It's for sure - V-bar ladder chains are NOT the best ride - - anywhere. Maybe they are OK on very soft ground or muddy conditions. On hard or frozen ground - they can shake the fillings out of your teeth.

Back in the 50's and 60's we had some double ring chains, the cross links were double rings about 2 1/2" in diameter they worked great in deep snow and mud,
but when you got on hard ground it was driving at not much faster then a walk or they would bounce and jar you right out of the seat.

John_Mc · Oct 13, 2020

oosik said:
That's good to hear LouNY. It's for sure - V-bar ladder chains are NOT the best ride - - anywhere. Maybe they are OK on very soft ground or muddy conditions. On hard or frozen ground - they can shake the fillings out of your teeth.

If you think ladder chains are a rough ride, try duo-grip style chains on filled rear tires (the fill takes some of the flex out of the tires, since there is much less air space to allow for compression). I could tolerate my 4-link V-bar ladder chains in high gear on a paved road. That same gear was completely intolerable with V-bar duo-grips.

John_Mc · Oct 13, 2020

LouNY said:
The last paragraph up there is what you need;
excellent traction, side grip, and a quality ride.
They will ride almost as smooth as not having chains on.
I have used 2 link and 4 link space v-bar and street chains and even old double ring chains the Euro style will beat all of the others hands down.

If you look for installation pictures and videos you can find some of just driving the chains on this is the easiest way to mount most any chain.

Lou is right about the installation method: driving the chains on is a quick, easy way to get them on properly. I've used it with my ladder chains, my duo-grips, and now my OFA EKO 8 chains (aka "Euro style" similar to Aqualine Talons or Trygg ice chains). I normally don't need to go back and retension the chains after a bit of driving, as I did with other installation methods (with the OFA EKO 8 chains, they recommend leaving some slack in the chain anyway, so I never need to retension, unless I put them on too tight the first time.) I've posted a description of the drive-on process on here somewhere, and someone else posted an even better description (I'm thinking it was LouNY, but it was a while ago, and I may be remembering incorrectly.) I can usually make it through the installation of a pair of rear chains without any swearing using this process. Before I learned it, installation took much longer and was basically a curse-fest.

I got my OFA EKO 8 chains from Reed Supply in St Johnsbury, VT. Great people to deal with. Delivery to one of the regular stops on their route in a town just 5 miles away from me was just $15. I've also heard good things about Windy Ridge that MAD777 mentioned.

BTW: for an interesting comparison of chains types and their suitability for various tasks and conditions, see this chart. The "Euro-style" chains that I and others have been raving about are referred to as either "studded high strength alloy": Tractor Tire Chains Comparisons. Really, the only rated weak spot is on bare pavement - but since all I'm doing is transporting when on bare pavement, I'm not worried about that. When I've pulled out a stuck vehicle, it worked great on ice-covered pavement when the Ice was frozen hard to the pavement. The only time I had trouble was when the ice had started melting off: I spun the ice out and was on bare pavement. I had to find a patch of dirt or something that the chains could get a solid bite on.