chain saw sharpening

   / chain saw sharpening #1  

workinallthetime

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
1,130
Location
Tulsa, ok
Tractor
L45 TLB, ZD326P
For years i have always taken by blades to a local shop to have them sharpened, but do the ice storm we had all the places are 4 to 5 days out or closed. I bought a stihl sharpening kit (files and a guide). The instructions are not very good but it doesnt look like rocket science either. I did a couple chains last night and it seemed to go pretty fast on the second one.
Anyone have any pointers for me? Just want to make sure im doing a good job since i will be working all weekend cleaning up the brush that is everywhere.
 
   / chain saw sharpening #2  
to make your chain last i suggest no more than a couple of strokes per tooth every time you sharpen. keep your chain out of the dirt when cutting. uniformity in sharpening is important to keep your chain from wandering in the cut.
 
   / chain saw sharpening #3  
Workingallthetime,

I use a Dremal. You can get the grinding wheels gaged to your chain tooth. I do not use any guides. I just touch the cutting edge with the Dremal for a few seconds.

A new chain is only $20, so I figure if I'm cutting big stuff I use a new-ish chain. I even keep nasty old chains around for cutting roots out if I'm tring to pull the entire tree down, root ball and all.

Patrick T
 
   / chain saw sharpening #4  
workinallthetime

Look out for a sale on HF grinder mine works fine and was $49.00 or so on sale

The first sharpening will take a little while (cant change the pitch of wheel) but after that the sharpen in a jiffy and it does a better job than Me with a file.

tom
 
   / chain saw sharpening #5  
I also have the chainsaw sharpener from Harbor Freight but have not tried it yet.:confused:
I still use the file and guide since I am so used to it. Keys are to sharpen each cutting edge uniformly ... usually a couple good strokes each. Then be sure to check the depth gauge too. It determines the depth of cut. Usually about .025" or so. After sharpening the cutting edge, you will want to file the depth gauge down too to maintain that distance of cut.
 
   / chain saw sharpening #6  
also don't SAW back and forth using the file, cut DOWN STROKE into the chain only don't pull the file BACK out of the groove you will inevitably wiggle the file causing the cutting edge to be filed dull rather than sharp... like others said 2 ~ 3 strokes is all I ever file mine (unless my brother was running the saw previously :( ) I find that a clean good file is needed to, I rarely use any guides either... Just hand file ones side of all the teeth, (gab a hunk of wood/oil gooe onto the last tooth just before starting one side, that way you know you made it all the way around, then switch positions so that you can file all of the other side. DON'T try to file both left & right teeth at same time as you will end up getting out of orientation causing the file to not cut all the teeth the same.

Hole that helps
mark M
 
   / chain saw sharpening #7  
I also have the Harbor freight chain sharpener. It works great. I use a hand file or the dremel a few times in between then the HF sharpener grind to a uniform angle. I paid $49 about 2 years ago but just bought another one for $29 on sale now as a christmas gift for my rural neighbor.
 
   / chain saw sharpening #8  
It is not rocket science to sharpen a chainsaw chain, but it can be one of the most frustrating experiences. To begin with whenever you sharpen a chain you need to make sure you get all the dull spots sharpe. This includes the top of the tooth, the side cutter, and the point, this is the place where the side and the top on the tooth meet. Once a chain has been sharpened a few times the rakers, that little thing that sticks up in front of the tooth, have to be filed to the proper height.

The most important thing is to keep the angle the top of the tooth is filed at close to the same from tooth to tooth and from side to side. The length of the tooth from front to back is not as critical as the angle so if you take one tooth back a little more than another don't worry. The type of chain you are trying to sharpen will determine at what angles you need to file them at. Most file guides will give you suggestions as to what they should be.

You don't have to worry about the side of the tooth as that will get dressed as you sharpen the top of the cutter. Make sure you get the top of the tooth sharpened evenly, most people pay more attention to the point of the cutter than they do to the opposite end. When you look at the top of the cutter from the nose of the bar you want to see and even edge across the top cutting surface. File until all the shiny spots are gone, some times you will see a small burr rolled up along the top of the cutter.

One side will be easier to sharpen than the other the side will depend whether you are right handed or left. Try to keep the same angle across the top as the chain had when it was new, some brands of chain have a line scribed on the top to give you a guide to go by and to tell you when the chain is out of life.

The proof of how you did will be when you make your first cut. The saw should cut straight and you should not have to push the chain through the wood. When it cuts off to one side either you did not get the top angle quite right or one side is still duller than the other. Keep at it and pay close attention to what you do so you know the cause and effect. Some of the manufacturers of saw chain have good website instructions on all the aspects of chain sharpening.

I made a fixture to hold my chain in a vise which makes it much easier for me. The trick is to sharpen the chain a little more frequently as you will have less dull to remove, and when you do hit something take your time and get it back into shape. When you try to cut with a dull chain you can heat up the chain to the point where you take the temper out of the steel and it will never stay sharpe like it did before.

Randy
 
   / chain saw sharpening
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks fellas, using the saw and metal files is not a problem with me, i have used both for years. This was just the first time i went after a chain saw chain with a file one. From what i have read so far sounds like i did it right, excpt for those who suggest the non hand powered version,lol. I think once i have the hand method down i might invest in a elec version. I did buy the stihl file and guides for my chain.
 
   / chain saw sharpening #10  
Only things I can add -don't expect a file to last forever. Buy them by the dozen & throw'em when they're dull. Two swipes with a sharp file will do more than 10 swipes with a dull one.
If you have trouble getting consistant angles with a guide, use a sharpie marker to draw the correct angle on each tooth & file parallel to the line. MikeD74T
 

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