Chain Saw Question

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

Okay, this might be removed, but I didn't know where else to post this question, and besides this is the biggest forum here by far (and the one I frequent the most), so here goes.

I recently bought a Stihl Chain Saw to replace my Poulan. I was hoping for a chain saw that would start easily the second time around (after running out of gas, etc.). The new saw is great in those terms.

Here's the problem, I've had the saw now for two weeks. I've used it for probably a total of 8 hours. I just toasted my third chain. After about an hour or so, each time using it, the chaing pops off the bar. I keep pretty close check on the tension, and re-tension the chain every 15 minutes to half an hour. No big deal. But sort of randomly, if the chain gets pinched in the tree (small trees mostly), and there is even the slightest give in the chain, it snaps off the bar. No big deal. That used to happen once in a while with the Poulan. Problem is, each time it does that, the chain seems to get bent, so I can't re-fit it into the bar. I thought at first it was the bar, so I went and bought a new one. Wasn't the bar. None of my old chains could fit in the new bar. Bought a new chain, fit in the bar fine.

Anyway, I am frustrated. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else had this problem? Is this a sign of a bad design (I wonder if the convenience of a no-tools tensioner means that the chain slips off the bar or sprocket more easily.

Thanks for your thoughts.

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

Okay, this might be removed, but I didn't know where else to post this question, and besides this is the biggest forum here by far (and the one I frequent the most), so here goes.

I recently bought a Stihl Chain Saw to replace my Poulan. I was hoping for a chain saw that would start easily the second time around (after running out of gas, etc.). The new saw is great in those terms.

Here's the problem, I've had the saw now for two weeks. I've used it for probably a total of 8 hours. I just toasted my third chain. After about an hour or so, each time using it, the chaing pops off the bar. I keep pretty close check on the tension, and re-tension the chain every 15 minutes to half an hour. No big deal. But sort of randomly, if the chain gets pinched in the tree (small trees mostly), and there is even the slightest give in the chain, it snaps off the bar. No big deal. That used to happen once in a while with the Poulan. Problem is, each time it does that, the chain seems to get bent, so I can't re-fit it into the bar. I thought at first it was the bar, so I went and bought a new one. Wasn't the bar. None of my old chains could fit in the new bar. Bought a new chain, fit in the bar fine.

Anyway, I am frustrated. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else had this problem? Is this a sign of a bad design (I wonder if the convenience of a no-tools tensioner means that the chain slips off the bar or sprocket more easily.

Thanks for your thoughts.

simonmeridew · Jun 5, 2006

I love my stihl, but you want to know about yours, so here's the site to click on, (and join) for your answer:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=4.0
There is a "chain saw forum" section which you will want to post in.
simonmeridew

simonmeridew · Jun 5, 2006

I love my stihl, but you want to know about yours, so here's the site to click on, (and join) for your answer:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=4.0
There is a "chain saw forum" section which you will want to post in.
simonmeridew

Toolguy · Jun 5, 2006

Here are a few suggestions for getting good results from your saw.

1. Make sure the chain oiler is working. The oil keeps the chain lubricated and cool. More oil is better than less oil. Oil is cheaper than a new bar and chain.

2. Stay out of the dirt. Nothing ruins a chain faster than letting the bar and chain touch the ground.

3. Don't let the bar and chain get pinched by the logs or limbs you are cutting. Be extra careful when cutting limbs that are above your head. Cutting small limbs that twist as they are cut is a good way to run the chain off of the bar.

4. Keep the chain sharp. I have learned how to sharpen them myself. Very easy and fast if you have a good file guide. Keep a couple of extra files on hand. They wear out and make the job much harder than necessary.

5. Use the recommended oil to gas ratio in the fuel.

I hope some of these tips will help you. They apply to all brands. Good luck.

Toolguy · Jun 5, 2006

Here are a few suggestions for getting good results from your saw.

1. Make sure the chain oiler is working. The oil keeps the chain lubricated and cool. More oil is better than less oil. Oil is cheaper than a new bar and chain.

2. Stay out of the dirt. Nothing ruins a chain faster than letting the bar and chain touch the ground.

3. Don't let the bar and chain get pinched by the logs or limbs you are cutting. Be extra careful when cutting limbs that are above your head. Cutting small limbs that twist as they are cut is a good way to run the chain off of the bar.

4. Keep the chain sharp. I have learned how to sharpen them myself. Very easy and fast if you have a good file guide. Keep a couple of extra files on hand. They wear out and make the job much harder than necessary.

5. Use the recommended oil to gas ratio in the fuel.

I hope some of these tips will help you. They apply to all brands. Good luck.

wushaw · Jun 5, 2006

Is oil getting to the bar?
Are the chains and bar sized for each other as far as groove size and chain drive link size?
Is the sprocket the right size for the chain?

wushaw · Jun 5, 2006

Is oil getting to the bar?
Are the chains and bar sized for each other as far as groove size and chain drive link size?
Is the sprocket the right size for the chain?

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

To answer both posts, yes, there is plenty of oil getting to the chain and bar. The good news is that I run out of gas just before running out of oil. I have only run out of gas once (today) and have never run out of oil, but do go through quite a bit of it (I bought a half gallon jug and have used more than half).

I think the problem is that there is no way to entirely avoid pinching the chain at times. I have learned how to avoid it (mostly) when cutting limbs off after the tree is down. But, most of the trees I am cutting are pretty thin, and they move around while I am cutting. I take it as slow as I can to pull the chain out if it looks like it might get stuck, then I push the tree to form a V to cut the rest.

What I don't understand is how easily the chain is getting bent. Specifically, its the little guides on the inner part of the chain. They are not visibly bent, but they are out of alignment sufficiently to prevent me from getting my chain to move around the bar groove. I probably used my Poulan 3 times as much as I've used my Stihl, and this didn't happen once with the Poulan. When the chain fell off, which happened fairly often, I'd put it back on, and be set (once it cooled off so I could restart it).

The chain and bar that came with the saw originally are the same kind I purchased later--Stihl brand, made specifically for my model.

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

To answer both posts, yes, there is plenty of oil getting to the chain and bar. The good news is that I run out of gas just before running out of oil. I have only run out of gas once (today) and have never run out of oil, but do go through quite a bit of it (I bought a half gallon jug and have used more than half).

I think the problem is that there is no way to entirely avoid pinching the chain at times. I have learned how to avoid it (mostly) when cutting limbs off after the tree is down. But, most of the trees I am cutting are pretty thin, and they move around while I am cutting. I take it as slow as I can to pull the chain out if it looks like it might get stuck, then I push the tree to form a V to cut the rest.

What I don't understand is how easily the chain is getting bent. Specifically, its the little guides on the inner part of the chain. They are not visibly bent, but they are out of alignment sufficiently to prevent me from getting my chain to move around the bar groove. I probably used my Poulan 3 times as much as I've used my Stihl, and this didn't happen once with the Poulan. When the chain fell off, which happened fairly often, I'd put it back on, and be set (once it cooled off so I could restart it).

The chain and bar that came with the saw originally are the same kind I purchased later--Stihl brand, made specifically for my model.

FamilyFarm · Jun 5, 2006

For what it's worth, I have run a Stihl 026 Pro (the current model of same saw is MS 260 Pro) for years and never encounterd the same problem you are having. I have cut many trees that were really too large for this saw. I took my time, used good cutting techniques, and only once got the saw stuck (I mean REALLY stuck!). I had to use steel wedge and sledge hammer to loosen it on that occasion, but even then no bent chain. I have never had the chain come off either. I do check the tension often and keep it oiled well. Sorry for your misfortune. Have you talked to the shop where you purchased it and had them check it out?

FamilyFarm · Jun 5, 2006

For what it's worth, I have run a Stihl 026 Pro (the current model of same saw is MS 260 Pro) for years and never encounterd the same problem you are having. I have cut many trees that were really too large for this saw. I took my time, used good cutting techniques, and only once got the saw stuck (I mean REALLY stuck!). I had to use steel wedge and sledge hammer to loosen it on that occasion, but even then no bent chain. I have never had the chain come off either. I do check the tension often and keep it oiled well. Sorry for your misfortune. Have you talked to the shop where you purchased it and had them check it out?

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

( For what it's worth, I have run a Stihl 026 Pro (the current model of same saw is MS 260 Pro) for years and never encounterd the same problem you are having. I have cut many trees that were really too large for this saw. I took my time, used good cutting techniques, and only once got the saw stuck (I mean REALLY stuck!). I had to use steel wedge and sledge hammer to loosen it on that occasion, but even then no bent chain. I have never had the chain come off either. I do check the tension often and keep it oiled well. Sorry for your misfortune. Have you talked to the shop where you purchased it and had them check it out? )

I haven't talked to the dealer yet. I wanted to get other's feedback first from here. I am fairly new at using a chain saw and figured it might be me. I have a feeling it has something to do with the "quick tensioner" system, which is essentially a plastic flip out "wingnut" that you can turn to loosen the cover, then use a plastic gear to tight it up. It does work pretty slick, but I think it doesn't do a very good job of holding the chain against the inner face of the machine, allowing movement back and forth across the plane of the bar grooves, so that with just a little slackness (I do not mean sagging), it doesn't take much to pop it off the bar.

Since it is only two weeks old, I may bring it in this coming weekend, and see what they say. I'd rather give up the quick tensioner if it meant more stability, and fewer chains. Like I said in my original post, I've gone through 3 bent chains in two weeks. I never had this happen all of last year with my other chain saw.

proudestmonkey · Jun 5, 2006

( For what it's worth, I have run a Stihl 026 Pro (the current model of same saw is MS 260 Pro) for years and never encounterd the same problem you are having. I have cut many trees that were really too large for this saw. I took my time, used good cutting techniques, and only once got the saw stuck (I mean REALLY stuck!). I had to use steel wedge and sledge hammer to loosen it on that occasion, but even then no bent chain. I have never had the chain come off either. I do check the tension often and keep it oiled well. Sorry for your misfortune. Have you talked to the shop where you purchased it and had them check it out? )

I haven't talked to the dealer yet. I wanted to get other's feedback first from here. I am fairly new at using a chain saw and figured it might be me. I have a feeling it has something to do with the "quick tensioner" system, which is essentially a plastic flip out "wingnut" that you can turn to loosen the cover, then use a plastic gear to tight it up. It does work pretty slick, but I think it doesn't do a very good job of holding the chain against the inner face of the machine, allowing movement back and forth across the plane of the bar grooves, so that with just a little slackness (I do not mean sagging), it doesn't take much to pop it off the bar.

Since it is only two weeks old, I may bring it in this coming weekend, and see what they say. I'd rather give up the quick tensioner if it meant more stability, and fewer chains. Like I said in my original post, I've gone through 3 bent chains in two weeks. I never had this happen all of last year with my other chain saw.

Bob53 · Jun 6, 2006

I have three Stihl saws with no problem. reason i have three is cut a lot of trees and triming so depending on job what saw i use. I would not think what you're incountering should happen no matter what you're doing.
make sure you;re not overtightening chain too. chain should be tighten to rest around bar, but still be able to pull up on chain about 1/4". or maybe there is problem in chain sproket area.
I never heard of the chain bending, there has to be something wrong there, dealer should find problem just by taking quick look.

Bob53 · Jun 6, 2006

I have three Stihl saws with no problem. reason i have three is cut a lot of trees and triming so depending on job what saw i use. I would not think what you're incountering should happen no matter what you're doing.
make sure you;re not overtightening chain too. chain should be tighten to rest around bar, but still be able to pull up on chain about 1/4". or maybe there is problem in chain sproket area.
I never heard of the chain bending, there has to be something wrong there, dealer should find problem just by taking quick look.

twodogs · Jun 6, 2006

I have a Husqvarna saw that I have used frequently for about 8 years. I have never had a chain pop off of the bar. I think that you have received some very good advice from the previous posts regarding general chainsaw use. I would probably check with the dealer where purchased. That seems very odd to me.

twodogs · Jun 6, 2006

I have a Husqvarna saw that I have used frequently for about 8 years. I have never had a chain pop off of the bar. I think that you have received some very good advice from the previous posts regarding general chainsaw use. I would probably check with the dealer where purchased. That seems very odd to me.

Bob53 · Jun 6, 2006

sorry, read you're post again, saw you mentioned quick tensioner. If you're talking about the automatic chain tensioner then that might explain everything. i've seen post about them where people are happy with them, but most have more problems with them. If you are using all stihl parts chains, then i'd get rid of the automatic tensioner. that is if thats what you meant in you're post.

Bob53 · Jun 6, 2006

sorry, read you're post again, saw you mentioned quick tensioner. If you're talking about the automatic chain tensioner then that might explain everything. i've seen post about them where people are happy with them, but most have more problems with them. If you are using all stihl parts chains, then i'd get rid of the automatic tensioner. that is if thats what you meant in you're post.