Chain saw blade sharpening ?

[nebraskasparks]

Hey Richard,

I used to pay money to have my blades sharpened like you and had some bad experiences but also found a good shop but they charge 7.50 for a sharpening. I have recently started doing my own sharpening and found out after several hours of reading and experimenting that I can sharpen as good as the shop. I like to use my own round files and find I can sharpen without losing as much metal plus it gets me out of the house into the shop. I do have a "Chinese" chain sharpener and I use it when my chain finds a piece of barbed war or rock and nicks the &*&^(*^& out of the chain. I agree with what Bird had to say with different chains, sizes and angles. It takes a bit of reading and messing around but now I save money every day I chain saw! We heat our home with wood so I put plenty of time on the Stihl saws. I'll sharpen a couple chains a day when I'm working. Saves enough money to buy high quality bar oil etc. Lots of debate on what sharpener to buy etc...I think a good tool in the hand of an educated operator and attention to detail will stead you just fine whatever you decide to do.

 

[deerseeker001]

I bought a Hf Chain sharpener and I love,sharpens chains like new.When sharpening just kiss tooth with grinding wheel tht is all that is needed.

 

[4020deereboy]

Asked one of the old loggers in or area how he kept his saw sharp. Answer 3 strokes of the file every 30 minutes and you never have a dull chain. I have followed his advise and he right has long has i keep it out of anything.

 

[CobyRupert]

Asked one of the old loggers in or area how he kept his saw sharp. Answer 3 strokes of the file every 30 minutes and you never have a dull chain. I have followed his advise and he right has long has i keep it out of anything.

:thumbsup:



,,,,and for the love of all that is holy, it's "teeth" on a "chain". You can saw sharpen the teeth, or even sharpen the chain, but you can't sharpen the blades. They don't exist. Off soapbox now.

 

[Bluegill2]

I have 8 chainsaws and not one of them has a "blade"! :laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[4Farms]

I agree with 4020deereboy, I hand file and give each cutter tooth 3 or 4 strokes each after every tank of fuel. The only time I use my wall mounted grinder is if I hit a rock, wire or something that really messes up the chain. A sharp chain certainly makes firewood cutting easier and extends saw life.

4Farms

 

[brt]

Dremel makes an attachment for their tools that is made for sharpening a chainsaw blade. I bought one and it works well..

A679-02 Sharpening Kit / Model: A679-02

 

[DFB]

Wow slightly off subject but I can't get over how far back this thread dates and some of the names of folks that don't post here anymore!

 

[lostcreekranch]

These work way better than the stones that break easily.

Anytime Tools 5/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr 1/8" Shank, 4 Pack: Cutting Burs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[MH8675309]

Get the right size file for your chain and drill a small hole in a golf ball - one that the sharp end of the file will stick into. Tap the the ball onto the end of the file and you got an instant handle that will work perfectly. Don't drill the hole too big. Clamp the bar tightly in a bench vise (make sure the vice doesn't keep the chain from rolling) Using the kickback for a brake file each tooth and then take the brake off and advance the chain to file the next section of chain. Make sure the chain is fairly tight on the bar and file each tooth using a motion that pushes and turns at the same time. DON'T use a sawing - back and forth motion- doesn't work very good that way. Try to maintain the angle that is already there and get in the habit of doing this often so that the chain doesn't get too mangled up. When your done with that side take the saw out of the vice and do the other side. After some practice you'll be surprise how quick it is to touch up a chain. Remember too that the guys that use a machine are taking off more steel than you would using a file. Filing the chains gives more use since your not grinding off more than you need to.

 

[PILOON]

YEP, like that golf ball trick. (I use similar)
My method is 2 strokes every tank full of gas via hand file.
Old chains are reserved for stumps and roots and tossed when badly nicked.

All said, clamping the saw blade in a vice sure makes fileing an easy task but then you soon learn the knack of positioning on a tree stump to make that task easy.

 

[CobyRupert]

All said, clamping the saw blade in a vice sure makes fileing an easy task but then you soon learn the knack of positioning on a tree stump to make that task easy.

Or use one of these to do both: a vice on a tree stump!
Then you can sharpen your "blade"

 

[trevordd]

Hello, guys. I am new here, nice to meet you. I had some similar problem with my chainsaw too. I solved it by buying a Chain Grinder. Just got it from sale on tractortool for 270bucks. It sharpens my tools really great. Hope, it helped you somehow too

 

[yomax4]

I like the chainsaw grinder too. I can't seem to get the chain as sharp with a file. Maybe just too impatient not sure. I do agree that I probably take more metal than I need to. File does makes sense due to the chain cost being what it is.

 

[2458n]

The idea of using the chain brake never was considered. When my grandfather taught me saws did not have that feature. thank you.When I was working never thought of hand sharpening. Always had a couple of loops getting sharpened. You really notice how much chain gets sharpen away at the shop when you go back and do your own.

 

[JKR]

I use a Oregon chainsaw bench sharpener

http://www.oregonproducts.com/images_pro/products/accessories_main1.jpg

 

[dgeesaman]

I like the chainsaw grinder too. I can't seem to get the chain as sharp with a file. Maybe just too impatient not sure. I do agree that I probably take more metal than I need to. File does makes sense due to the chain cost being what it is.

Yep, with a grinder and resinoid wheel you can just kiss the teeth. As long as you're using the same angles as before it will take barely more material than the filing would. I have a 28" bar and four loops for my firewood saw and I just cut until each one loses it's edge, then change chains, top off the tanks and clean out the dust, and go back at it. The stuff I'm cutting now is dirty as it came from a tree service and the logs were handled more than once, so 3 strokes of a file every 30 minutes would not be enough.

The commercial sharpeners aren't necessarily trying to screw you by hogging off too much metal. Some do, but others are taking the time to make all teeth equal and clean up the inconsistent angles that usually come from hand sharpening.

I'm not sure if I should be doing this, but I've been noodling with the idea of buying a new sharpener. I have an older Neilsen sharpener that doesn't seem to have enough adjustments to set up for a .375 chain like it should. I don't need it, but...

 

[cat fever]

I have been using Stihl saws since being a teenager. Back then and now we use the little grinder tool that gets it's power from the truck battery. The Stihl one already has marks on the grinder for the proper angle. They are not much and I would recommend anyone who cuts any amount of wood on a regular basis get one. I do not remove the chain from the saw, sharpen it before you tighten the chain. It will slide around the bar easy enough. Keep the chain on wood, no dirt or rocks and it will stay sharp most of the day.

 

[dgeesaman]

Keep the chain on wood, no dirt or rocks and it will stay sharp most of the day.

That never happens for me. Probably the amount of dirt in the tree bark - my chains only stay sharp for one tankful at best.

I recommend sharpening whenever you think the chain has lost its edge.

David

 

[davesl708]

I sharpen my Stihl with a Dremel tool adapter. Works great. I sharpen the chain on the saw using Stihl's stones. This leaves a polished finish on the tooth. I have dropped and bucked a 42" elm and cut all brush on one sharpening. If I stay out of the dirt zone I have cut and bucked more than ten smaller trees without dulling.