Chain pitch (size) differences.

   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #31  
Based on what I've heard they're never as sharp as a steel chain and can't be sharpened without sending it back to the factory. I talked to a guy that had one and he said it would cut 5 rick before it was dull and cost him $20 to have it sharpened. I wasn't impressed. My steel chain cuts that much wood between sharpening it and it can be replaced for $20.
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #32  
Same here. I run Huskys, but Stihl chain. It holds the edge better. I don't mind a little more sharpening effort.

I got a tour of the Oregon/Carlton saw chain factories near Portland Oregon once by the plant managers. I asked the Carlton manager if his saw chain was as good as Stihl's. He said no, that they use more chromium. They made Carlton, Homelite and a few other brands in that plant. I think Oregon was made separate in the other plant, but my memory could be wrong. Very interesting. Probably all made in China now.
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #33  
I think s219 is correct. I have many 4" to 6" trees that I need to cut low to the ground in a severely overgrown pasture. Has anyone tried a carbide chain for cuttng close to the ground. I'd be interested in knowing how well it worked out.

Based on what I've heard they're never as sharp as a steel chain and can't be sharpened without sending it back to the factory.


No, it can be done by anybody with a diamond wheel and the right machine. My local saw shop can do it. If you wanted to spend the bucks, you could do it yourself. It's not worth it, in my book. Like you said, you can buy a new steel chain for the cost of one sharpening.



I bought some of Carlton's carbide impregnated chain, which I can't find online anymore. Instead of the carbide insert welded to the steel link, it had splinters of carbide somehow impregnated into the tooth. Sharpened with an ordinary wheel. Don't think a file would touch it, though.

I got it to cut some railroad ties. Waste of money. Once you hit one of those embedded stones in the tie, you are done.

I sharpened it up and used it on regular firewood. Again, not impressed. But then, I don't know how that stuff would really compare to the full carbide chain.

I've heard the same as 4570man. It's never as sharp, and it's a bear to sharpen. I think it's probably best reserved for specialized use where you are cutting into something abrasive that would chew up a steel chain.
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #34  
I think the only practice use for the carbide tipped chain is fire and rescue
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #35  
I'll agree with you. We considered a carbide tipped chain since we dull our chains rather quickly working in the dirt. (we clear and maintain XC trails) After checking on price and cost of resharpening carbide tipped ones, we decided they'd not be cost effective.

I think the only practice use for the carbide tipped chain is fire and rescue
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #36  
Thanks, to all who commented on the carbide chain. It often pays to ask ahead of buying.
 
   / Chain pitch (size) differences. #37  
I have never worried much about the chain configuration on my saws. I just keep them as sharp as can be and they cut plenty fast. I more worry about preventing kickback and being safe.
 

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