Chain Guards -- What Size Chain?

[toolslinger]

The unit I made is 1/4", and yea, it was what was hanging around (literally).
For your application, and since you're buying, I might lean toward 3/16". A) it's a little lighter, which matters since you're working on an offset unit. B) It should be a little cheaper. C)with the slightly smaller links it should be a little more dense in terms of stopping small objects, but lighter, so it will move around the stiff weeds more easily.
That's my thoughts for what they're worth, considering I still haven't actually gotten to try my rotary out with the new guards... I had considered doing some for the flail I just put back together, but after a dozen acres last weekend, and not getting anything thrown forward, I'm going to leave it open in front at this time...

 

[Tinhack]

On my flail mower, I used bailer belting. It's pinched between the mower housing and a strip of 3/16x1 flat iron. The blades spin forward and I've never had an issue with uncut weeds/grass. The cut is as good as any finish cut mower. It uses the cup/spoon blades. Before I put the front guard on the flail, I would hear thick chaff and an occasional stone hit my expanded metal guard on the tractor. The belting seems to also create more lift on the grass. In the back, there's a 6" full length roller. Not much gets past that.

My old Ford rotary mower has 1/4" chain held in place by a single rod. A chain link is inserted into a slot in an L-channel from the bottom. The rod runs through the exposed portion of the links on top of the channel. The rod is bolted down on one end. Tedious if you have to replace one but easily beats having to grind and weld on a new piece of chain.

 

[TerryR]

The unit I made is 1/4", and yea, it was what was hanging around (literally).
For your application, and since you're buying, I might lean toward 3/16". A) it's a little lighter, which matters since you're working on an offset unit. B) It should be a little cheaper. C)with the slightly smaller links it should be a little more dense in terms of stopping small objects, but lighter, so it will move around the stiff weeds more easily.

Those are exactly the reasons I've been leaning toward a lighter chain, especially A and C. Thanks.

 

[TerryR]

On my flail mower, I used bailer belting. It's pinched between the mower housing and a strip of 3/16x1 flat iron. The blades spin forward and I've never had an issue with uncut weeds/grass. The cut is as good as any finish cut mower. It uses the cup/spoon blades.

That's about what came on it from the factory on mine. It has hammer blades. Here's the result when mowing in the fall with the guard on:

Here's what I'm trying to cut:

I've looked at the designs that put the top chain link through a notch and hold them with a rod, but making 60 or so notched holes looks challenging. So I'm leaning toward toolslinger's design that puts the chain sections on a rod held by mounting brackets. I'm not considering the designs that have the chains welded on a mounting bar.

 

[TerryR]

Our Brown has 5/16” chain

Thanks, Cathy. I assume that's a rotary cutter? I'm thinking I can do well with lighter chains on a flail.

 

[Tinhack]

Well, if you were closer, we could punch the slots or mill the slots.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, Tinhack, but with the price of gas, I'm guessing hiring a local shop to do it would be cheaper. I'm going to talk to one in the next few days.

 

[Smokeydog]

The front chain guard assembly for a Bushhog 286 6’ rotary cutter was $280. Be hard for a shop to make a custom one similar for that amount.

 

[TerryR]

Thanks, Smokeydog. I'd found the guard for the BH216 at about $100 more. I'd not come across the 286. I'll see if I can get that and what it would cost. I see it listed in Illinois for just under $280.

Would you know how long the bar is on it?

 

[TerryR]

Just checked with my local BH dealer, and he wants $426. :-(

I'll see if I can do better.