Chaffed wire -how to repair

[AlbertC]

My NH 3930 was blowing fuses and I found a chaffed wire that had been rubbing on the metal hydraulic line. There really is not enough room to do much with this wire to repair it, so I just cut a small length of tubing to put on the wire so it could no longer touch the hydraulic line. However upon thinking about this more it seems to me that I should do something so that moisture can’t come in contact with the bare spot on the wire and cause corrosion. The spot is only about a millimeter long.

I thought about putting a small dab on silicone caulk over the bare spot and then putting the rubber tube on it again so it can’t touch the hydraulic line. Is this a good idea to prevent corrosion on the wire? I can’t put any shrink tubing on the wire because there is no way to slide the tubing on the wire.

Comments welcome.

 

[SPYDERLK]

There is a product called Liquid Electrical Tape.

 

[WranglerX]

Several solutions, RTV, or Liquid tape or whatever..... Main thing is to pull it away from line so it does not become a reoccurring problem....

 

[5030]

One thing I always do is, I apply either lengths of suitable hose (split and zip tied) to areas where rubbing can take place or reroute them where they don't get rubbed.

If I were you, I'd apply a split and zip tied hose length with some dielectric grease inside and look over the machine and apply overwrap to any and all offending areas.

 

[Midniteoyl]

There is a product called Liquid Electrical Tape.

This. Can be found in most Farm or Auto stores, Home Depot, etc.. Clean the wire with something like Brake Clean, coat, let dry for 10mins, then put another coat and the tubing while still wet so it 'glues'. Zip-tie as needed to pull the wires away from the metal, like loosely to the pipe/sensor behind it.

 

[slckeys]

Agree with most... dielectric grease is good, then you can cover it with split loom or a length of small rubber hose(split side away from chaff). Then you can zip tie it in place, then zip tie that section at from any rubbing to prevent future issues.

 

[RustyA]

I've had very good results with liquid tape, the key is a clean surface for it to adhere to. I would be concerned dialectical grease would melt out at higher outside temps and split loom would allow moisture in. If it were mine two coats of liquid tape, split a hose as protector and zip tie out of contact area.

 

[2manyrocks]

Better to seal that up with the stuff intended to seal up electrical lines and then protect the area with something to prevent the metal lines from chaffing back through again.

What you don't want is for corrosion to start inside the wiring and then end up having to replace the entire line.

 

[4570Man]

I’d cover up the worn place with liquid electric tape and split a piece of hose to go over the wire to prevent future rubbing.

 

[Racer4]

Don’t use silicone sealant. The acid in it will cause the copper to corrode. As said, liquid tape would be the best solution.

 

[JasperFrank]

As posted before, I'd go with Liquid Tape. Use a lot. Wrap it before it drys with electrical tape and then coat that.

 

[rScotty]

Don’t use silicone sealant. The acid in it will cause the copper to corrode. As said, liquid tape would be the best solution.

Yes, most all low cost silicon sealers have that peculiar citric acid smell which indicates that product is combining with humidity from the atmosphere to form an organic acid catalyst to kick off the cure. I haven't seen that be a problem with corrosion - but the possibility is real.

I don't know about the liquid electrical tape & have never used it. If it has that sharp vinegary smell characteristic of the inexpensive silicons then I personally wouldn't use it either.

I do know a little about silicon sealants. I learned about them back when I was doing instrument design. Some industries use non-acid silicons sealants in a tube that work just like gasket sealers but are more commonly used in firearms, optics, aviation, and aero-space. They have no smell when curing. They are called "non-outgassng" or "non-acid curing" & the lack of odor makes them easy to identify. More adhesive, tougher, and longer lasting than their smelly cousins. More expensive, though....about 10x.

An example is Dow Corning 3145 in grey or clear. It's sold online.

rScotty