Century - Branson cross reference models

[sagebrushbilly]

I understand that the Century 3045 has a Branson counterpart.... Perhaps the Branson 4520r. I need help with the drivetrain on my 3045. There might be a Branson owner out there that has some helpful information. What Century or Branson models share the same drivetrain with the 3045 Century.

The clutch will not adjust for freeplay. The spring tension feels normal. There is no forward ot reverse in any gear or range.

sagebrushbilly@yahoo.com

 

[DavesTractor]

It would be most similar to a 4520, but not a 4520R, which is a different beast. If it does not have the push button electric over hydraulic PTO, then you have a two-stage clutch. If you can't adjust for free-play and it will not go foward or back, then it sounds like the clutch is toast. It is a chore to do a clutch on these Bransons/Century tractors.

 

[sagebrushbilly]

Thanks for the reply Dave.

This Century 3045 does not have the electric over hydraulic PTO as far as I know. Just manual controls.

Can you help me understand just how this 2 stage clutch works ? Why can I disengage the PTO normally, engage the PTO normally with the clutch if the clutch is toast ? Will the freeplay usually increase as the clutch wears down ? There is no freeplay at either end of the adjustment right now. There is no grabbing or sliding of the clutch when the tractor is in gear. It went out suddenly.

Will be attempting the tractor split within a few days.

Thanks again, Billy

sagebrushbilly@yahoo.com

 

[DavesTractor]

Billy,

I don't have the typing skills/speed to truly explain all you are asking, but I can help a little. The two-stage clutch has 2 disks that are separated with a heavy plate in between, one disk drives a shaft for ground movement, the other engages a hollow outer shaft for the PTO. Part way down with the pedal disengages the PTO disk, further down disengages the drive disk. This sort of clutch is generally replaced as an assembly, and it must be set-up correctly on the flywheel or you will never get it right by adjusting the pedal.

If your failure was sudden and complete, you may have broken a clutch finger or some other odd sort of deal. But the original clutches in the older Branson/Century tractors would not take any abuse. A careful operator would get years of use, but a little too much slipping or riding the clutch would cause the disk to overheat and the clutch would fail quickly. They have since changed the clutch material. Gone is the super-smooth gentle engagement of the old clutch, however the upside is that the new clutches last really well and you can get used to the direct engagement. Many a times an early Branson owner would loan his tractor to an inexperienced neighbor and need a clutch the next week.

Unfortunatley, years ago we replaced a lot of Branson clutches (problem has been solved for years, so new buyers need not fret) and it is a chore on this model. Some tractors are easy, this one is hard. But if you just take it one step at a time, you will get it. It isn't real complicated, but they made sure that most every bolt is hard to reach so it is a lot of hand work and not much air-gun work. Look over your PS hoses when you have it apart. If they need changed, now is the time.

 

[sagebrushbilly]

dave, many thanks on the clutch delails.

Do you have any warnings about how the 3045 frame rails come apart ? Some of the bolts will be easy, some tough. We just changed a clutch in a 7 ton fork lift [1942]. very large, and no pit under it.

It appears that it will be dicey getting things to line up on re-assembly.

 

[DavesTractor]

Billy, best to pull the loader mounts out of the way, pull floorboards, pull fuel tanks, then start disconnecting items and unbolt at the bellhosing and roll both halves apart. Leave the engine in the frame rails. There are some shortcuts you can take regarding the mounts and you can actually leave the fuel tanks in, but since this is your first Branson clutch, it's probably best to just spend a couple of hours and get all of that out of the way so you know what you are up against. It's not too bad from there except I think a couple of the top bellhousing bolts are not in real convenient locations. We have rails we mount under the tractor that have rollers on them with a screw jack sort of deal. We get it all unbuckled and then just roll them apart and look at the clutch carnage. One trick, you might drive a wooden wedge between the front axle and frame rail on each side to keep the engine from floppy over (axle articulation) when you roll them apart. That keeps you from having a heart attack as for just a moment it seems the thing is going to flop over on the floor.

 

[Jenkins003]

Dave states the the older Century/Branson tractors had weaker clutches. I have a 2004 Century 3040 tractor. Would that year have the older style clutches that I should be worried about ?

 

[DavesTractor]

Dave states the the older Century/Branson tractors had weaker clutches. I have a 2004 Century 3040 tractor. Would that year have the older style clutches that I should be worried about ?

Most likely you have the older clutch. Just don't overheat the clutch by slipping it and it will last a long time. They are a nice smooth clutch, they just won't tolerate abuse.

 

[sagebrushbilly]

Dave

Splitting the Century 3045 for clutch replacement. We have about 3 inches of space between the front and back halves at this point. Appears that the outer frame rails will have a clearance problem with the steering cylinder rams. I am not working from a manual while splitting this 3045, but I don't see a way to slide the rear half back with the steering in the way. Looks like the rams will need to be pulled out first, as the cylinder is welded to the front axle. Kinda tight in there right now.

Where is the best place to purchase a manual that will help with splitting the tractor ? Probably will order one when I order the clutch disk.

Billy

 

[DavesTractor]

Billy, we sell manuals, but by the time you have it split, you won't need the manual anymore! Although the correct Branson manual may take a little figuring. There was a 4520 back in the day that had the Yanmar 4-cylinder. Does yours use the Yanmar?

The front axle stays attached to the frame rails as does the engine. All of that rolls forward together. Maybe I am not understanding you.

 

[sagebrushbilly]

After looking at the frame a bit longer, the extent of the job has become more apparent. I reckon the outside frame rails have to come off each side... the rails with the extra weight of the FEL supports welded to them. Those weigh quite a bit. I had originally planned that the engine rails would just slide out from between the heavier rails. Not !

Work is proceeding again. thanks for the reply. And yes, it has the Yanmar 4 cylinder. This tractor is a 2002.

Billy

 

[DavesTractor]

The Century used a different loader than the Branson so I can't be sure, but it's probably best to remove the loader mounts entirely. So your tractor is the same as the earlier 4520, not to be confused with the 4520R. That is a really nice model in my opinion.

 

[sagebrushbilly]

Dave,

In reference to the Century 3045 clutch replacement, we successfully split the tractor 2 weeks ago. Should have the new clutch soon. Can you tell me much about reassembling the 2-stage clutch parts - are there certain torque requirements, etc ? Do any of the parts require any special lube at the points that may need it ? First time looking at a two stage clutch !

Is it better to have the PTO drive line engaged into the rear unit at the time of joining the front and rear units, or should it be in the pilot bearing at the front ? Any special tools required ?

Any pointers much appreciated.

Billy

 

[DavesTractor]

Dave,

In reference to the Century 3045 clutch replacement, we successfully split the tractor 2 weeks ago. Should have the new clutch soon. Can you tell me much about reassembling the 2-stage clutch parts - are there certain torque requirements, etc ? Do any of the parts require any special lube at the points that may need it ? First time looking at a two stage clutch !

Is it better to have the PTO drive line engaged into the rear unit at the time of joining the front and rear units, or should it be in the pilot bearing at the front ? Any special tools required ?

Any pointers much appreciated.

Billy

You'll want to get clutch adjustment instructions from whomever you bought the clutch. There are specific instructions. Obviously make sure you replace the throw-out bearing and pilot shaft bearing. Best to install the front axle driveshaft after you are all done with putting the tractor together, and be careful as it is easy to get one of the little ball bearings trapped and then you only think it is back together properly.

As for if the PTO is engaged or not, I usually engage it and then have someone turn it slightly as the halves are going back together so the splines line up.