Cast Iron

/ Cast Iron #1  

Michael Aos

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Messages
437
Location
Colorado Springs
Tractor
Kubota BX2370-1 RTV500
I've kind of dabbled with cast iron for around 20yrs. My only experience has been with modern Lodge. First unseasoned, and more recently with their preseasoned. I have a bunch of them.

My wife is trying Keto, so we started using her grandmothers BSR #8. Pretty awesome.

I just purchased a Blacklock *96*, Blacklock *39*, Field #8, and Field #10. Ordered a Stargazer 12-inch (6-8wks out).

The cooking outline on my glass stovetop measures 9.5", but I've recently realized the area that actually gets hot is more like 8.5".

As I've been playing with the different pans, I've noticed the temperature delta is often 50-100 degrees or more between the center of the pan and the edges.

I'm curious as to whether this is significant. Is it a "good thing" or a "bad thing"?

I have noticed my larger skillets that extend beyond the heat zone tend to stick more in the cold spots and don't have the nice black patina outside the zone of the heating element (glass).
--
 
/ Cast Iron #2  
I've kind of dabbled with cast iron for around 20yrs. My only experience has been with modern Lodge. First unseasoned, and more recently with their preseasoned. I have a bunch of them.

My wife is trying Keto, so we started using her grandmothers BSR #8. Pretty awesome.

I just purchased a Blacklock *96*, Blacklock *39*, Field #8, and Field #10. Ordered a Stargazer 12-inch (6-8wks out).

The cooking outline on my glass stovetop measures 9.5", but I've recently realized the area that actually gets hot is more like 8.5".

As I've been playing with the different pans, I've noticed the temperature delta is often 50-100 degrees or more between the center of the pan and the edges.

I'm curious as to whether this is significant. Is it a "good thing" or a "bad thing"?

I have noticed my larger skillets that extend beyond the heat zone tend to stick more in the cold spots and don't have the nice black patina outside the zone of the heating element (glass).
--

I would say the latter . . .
 
/ Cast Iron #3  
I've always had best experience with Cast Iron on a Gas Stove you can more easily match the flame to the pan. On Electric stoves your best luck for even cooking is matching the pan to the burner size. Some stoves have adjustable elements like mine but you are still limited for even cooking to the size burner element being used with the size of the pan.
 
/ Cast Iron #4  
I've always had best experience with Cast Iron on a Gas Stove you can more easily match the flame to the pan. On Electric stoves your best luck for even cooking is matching the pan to the burner size. Some stoves have adjustable elements like mine but you are still limited for even cooking to the size burner element being used with the size of the pan.

Very good. . . ^^^^^^
 
/ Cast Iron
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Absolutely correct. Maybe everybody else already just knows this, but I thought it might be worth bringing up. It took me a little while to figure out...

I've kind of landed on the Field #8. The outline for the burner on my glass stove is about 9.5", but the part that actually gets hot is closer to 8.5".

The cooking surface on the Field #8 is around 8.75", which seems to mate up pretty well (as far as even heating).

I suspected the smaller cooking-surface Blacklock *96* or BSR #8 would be even better, but it hasn't played out that way.
--

I've always had best experience with Cast Iron on a Gas Stove you can more easily match the flame to the pan. On Electric stoves your best luck for even cooking is matching the pan to the burner size. Some stoves have adjustable elements like mine but you are still limited for even cooking to the size burner element being used with the size of the pan.
 
/ Cast Iron #7  
Cooper :thumbdown:

I switch to all cast iron 10 years ago. The new Lodge pans are decent if you sand them down. I still have a couple new Lodge that work great since I used a DA sander to smooth out the cooking surface. There are some great new pans out there but they are $$$. Better to find vintage pans and clean them up and restore them
 
/ Cast Iron #8  
I used a DA sander
What does "DA" stand for? I assume you used regular sandpaper? If so, what grit did you use?
 
/ Cast Iron #10  
What does "DA" stand for? I assume you used regular sandpaper? If so, what grit did you use?

Like 3T said dual action sander

My pans at home never performed like the old pans we have up at camp. Mine were always sticky and the camp pans were easy to cook on. I noticed how smooth the old Griswold pans were so I tried sanding mine before scrapping them. It doesnt take much and you dont need a totally smooth surface (I have one I sanded smooth) for the pan to perform well. I used 60 grit to knock down the dimples cleaned with soap and water and seasoned with flaxseed oil three times before using. Since doing my pans I have seen vids on YouTube of people sanding their pans

This has turned out to be my favorite pan. It gets used every morning. Eggs slide right out

1F8D6A20-D20E-45D5-8163-496C2CD7C604.jpeg
 
Last edited:
/ Cast Iron #11  
As far as cooking and even heat. I make it a habit to periodically turn the pan 90 degrees while I'm cooking so I don't have hot spots.

The photo of motorboats pan looks like my larger Lodge pan. It always has a shine. I have a smaller one that hasn't quite got there yet, but it's getting there. Next time I buy new Lodge pans, I'll be lightly sanding them before I start the seasoning process.
 
/ Cast Iron #12  
The next home I move to will hopefully have gas for cooking. Have had it in previous houses and used it as a Firefighter in the Firehouse.
 
/ Cast Iron #13  
The next home I move to will hopefully have gas for cooking. Have had it in previous houses and used it as a Firefighter in the Firehouse.

Both of my brothers were firefighters also; my brother in Albuquerque did a lot of cooking there! I use his recipe for Green Chile Stew quite often!
 
/ Cast Iron #14  
As far as cooking and even heat. I make it a habit to periodically turn the pan 90 degrees while I'm cooking so I don't have hot spots.

The photo of motorboats pan looks like my larger Lodge pan. It always has a shine. I have a smaller one that hasn't quite got there yet, but it's getting there. Next time I buy new Lodge pans, I'll be lightly sanding them before I start the seasoning process.

That's SOP for dutch oven cooking on coals. About every 15 minutes, turn the oven 90 degrees one direction, turn the lid 90 degrees the other direction.
 
/ Cast Iron #15  
Both of my brothers were firefighters also; my brother in Albuquerque did a lot of cooking there! I use his recipe for Green Chile Stew quite often!

A lot of good cooks out there who are Firefighters especially with Chile!
 
/ Cast Iron #17  
Why is a solid copper pan junk? I’ve never had one but the logic seems solid?
 
/ Cast Iron #18  
Why is a solid copper pan junk? I致e never had one but the logic seems solid?

Acids like vinegar and tomatoes can leach copper into the food. Ingestion of copper can be toxic

This is why modern copper pans have stainless linings
 
/ Cast Iron #19  
Acids like vinegar and tomatoes can leach copper into the food. Ingestion of copper can be toxic

This is why modern copper pans have stainless linings
THIS ^^^^
 
/ Cast Iron #20  
Yep. Gotta do the rotation when baking in a DO. Not so much for simmering.

That's SOP for dutch oven cooking on coals. About every 15 minutes, turn the oven 90 degrees one direction, turn the lid 90 degrees the other direction.
 

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