Case 480ck crank pulley removal

[etpm]

Thanks Eric. I first used propane then MAP and then a new to me acetylene torch. My buddy gave me 2 minute tutorial on how to use it and then when I actually went to use I had uTube on replay. I'm handy but never messed with popping noises and serious fire. A bit frightening and I don't look forward to messing with that puppy again. I didn't get anything quite red hot but I did heat the pulley with one hand while I prayed with the other. Cracking that nut wasn't all that bad.

I put it in gear and had to block the wheels and I also engaged the PTO and put a monster pipe wrench on the PTO to stop it from spinning. I was actually moving the tractor with the big cheater bar but it let go fairly easily after all of that.

I'm not a machinist or welder - just a DIY'er so I learn as I go.

Thank you for the info.

I'm glad I could help. When I posted about a nut not shrinking after heating red hot I was in a hurry. Now I am not so I though I would post here about what happens when a tight nut is heated.
Let's talk about steel nuts. When a nut is tight on a bolt the threads are loaded in tension lengthwise. The threads are also loaded in tension diametrically. This means the forces on the nut are trying to make it larger in diameter and trying to stretch it, trying to make it longer. If the nut is rusted these forces are amplified because rust expands quite a bit. If the nut is then made hot enough, and red hot is certainly hot enough, the metal will start to relax and deform enough to relieve the tension. The nut expands when heated any amount but when heated red hot it not only expands so that it gets longer and larger in diameter it also plastically deforms. This means that the nut permanently deforms to the new shape it is in, the shape it became when the tension on the nut was relieved from being heated and it conformed to any rust. As the nut cools slowly it will shrink some just from the cooling but will not shrink enough to become tighter than it was before heating. It will not even try to become tighter than it was before being heated.
There is such a thing as a shrink fit. This shrink fit works because the metal is not made hot enough to plastically deform, it is only made hot enough to expand a certain amount and when it cools it shrinks back to its original size. Or tries to. If a sleeve is to be made a shrink fit onto a shaft it will be bored to a dimension slightly smaller than the shaft. The amount smaller is determined by many factors. But when it is time to fit the sleeve onto the shaft the sleeve is heated, or the shaft cooled, or both, and the sleeve is slipped over the shaft quickly to the proper position and kept there until the shaft and sleeve are at the same temperature.
Eric

 

[BukitCase]

wtf1983, you're right about the value of information, I've been learning from people, books, etc, for 77 years and I'm pretty sure a human could NEVER learn everything there is to know - best you can do is TRY -

Your comments about acetylene torches tells me that's one VERY IMPORTANT area you'd be wise to learn more about - here are a couple of links to get you started

Fuel your safety knowledge

The subject of oxyfuel safety is vast and would take volumes to cover completely. In fact, most large companies involved in oxyfuel cutting and welding publish their own procedural guidelines for employees to follow.

www.thefabricator.com

Importance of Acetoning - Dissolving Acetylene in Acetone

For more, just google acetylene safety

Bottom line is NOT knowing can and will kill you - 58 years ago another person's lack of knowledge missed killing me by about 2-3 inches, so I take safety fairly serious... Steve

 

[DJ54]

Here are the pics. This pulley won't come out as it is. I'm hoping that the change in weather/temps will help pop the case off. If this happens I think it all can be removed as one piece.

OK, gotcha', I was thinking you couldn't get the pulley to budge at all on the crankshaft.

But, yes, that pulley is all one piece what you're looking at. So again yes, the front end will need to be removed to get it to come forward to get it off.

One of those things you look at and think if the designing engineers had moved that piece it's butting into just an inch or so forward, it would have come right off. It's always been my theory that engineers should have to actually work on 15-20 year old machines like this in its present stage, keeping a mechanic in mind, maybe they would build into their design a way to get something like that pulley off without having to do so much extra work to replace something as simple to replace as a seal. But that's just my opinion...

 

[wff1983]

Eric and Steve,

Sincere thanks for the information and warnings. I plan to educate myself a bit further before touching a torch again.

I think it is the timing cover behind that pulley and sleeve. I gingerly tried getting it come with taps and penetrants but it won't budge. All the bolts are out as far as I can tell but it just won't let go. IF I can get the cover off I might be able to slide the pulley back in the recessed area and slide both the pulley and cover up and out.

Or am I missing something?

Splitting the tractor sounds very intimidating. Lots of fun to be had there.

Thanks again.

Jeff

 

[wff1983]

The advice may not be what you want to hear, but here goes....

I like to do my own work and over the years I've enjoyed saving a lot of money doing it. But sometimes a job just turns into too much. When that happens, I call my local yellow tractor dealer and have his mobile mechanic make a call. It costs $250 for him just to drive out here and back, and they charge about $100/hr for his time. But there isn't much he can't do in a couple of hours. He is real good.

While he is here, I have him do some of the service I've been putting off, plus any welding and straightening that needs doing. The guy is a professional and worth the cost every time. And I can get on with things.
rScotty

Thank you for the advice. This will be my last resort but I see your logic here.

 

[wff1983]

2 years later..

I managed to drop the oil pan and found what appear to be governor parts. I did pull the governor up and out before the cover came off so they probably fell to the oil pan then but I’m not sure how they got bent and scratched so badly. Tractor has ran for some time, well before I started pulling things off. L I will have to check case for replacements. There was also coolant in the oil pan.. Not sure where to start on that one.

Had to split the tractor to get front cover off and didn’t see much wrong as far as I can tell. One cracked tooth probably from me thrashing around with the cover.

I am going to try to order gov parts and oil pan seal tomorrow.

Any ideas here are greatly appreciated. Aside from replacing gov parts and seals I don’t know what else to do here. Pics for reference. Anything jump out to anyone?

 

[wff1983]

And with a shot of brake clean I found the ball bearing that the governor sits on. Gov weights move freely.

Maybe it is carb issues all along?

 

[DJ54]

Did the roll pin come out to let it drop or go up to damage it like that..?? Seems it would have sheared it if it got caught on something.

I checked Case Construction, and it says N/A. Saw a used one, but when you go to the site Roberts Tractor Parts Camden, OH) it shows it's out of stock.

May have to resort to going to TractorHouse and post a "want to buy" ad. Look at the top of the page in small print, to the top right. TractorHouse.com | New & Used Farm Equipment For Sale