Can I use angle iron this way

[bcp]

For lightweight forks, I would use unistrut instead of angle. Tested and approved by TBM members.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/258067-homemade-brush-forks-success.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/198883-brush-forks-bx24.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/265893-brush-forks.html

Bruce

 

[Shield Arc]

How about skip welding a piece of flatbar inside the angle iron?

 

[Mysfyt]

Angle's not going to be a good choice. Find some used forks. I got mine for $99/pr and they're hardly used.

+1 for this. You could use the angle iron on your main structure to retain the forks and that way you can slide the forks to adjust to different widths.

 

[Shield Arc]

Or you could go this route. This is the 3rd set i've built with this design.

 

[shadetree]

Thank you all for all the advice. I am new to welding and know next to nothing of metal. All my shop work is done outside and on a very limited budget. I will delay the forks for a bit to see what else I can come up with. In case you missed it here is my post on putting the John Deere 140 3 point lift on the front of a 318.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-lawn-garden/349193-ive-got-140-3-point.html

 

[drizler]

Or you could go this route. This is the 3rd set i've built with this design.

Say I like that rig. Is it good for a ton? Also. what thikness steel are you using there. I assume you would be able to mount that to a SSQd setup
? You don't have the URL or plans for that kiking around do you,:drool: hint hint. Just what are those forks made out of anyways and how long are they? Lastly enjoy the pig latin as my (see) key is toast and I am 6000 miles from the new keyboard:thumbdown:

 

[Shield Arc]

I built this set of forks for my brother-n-law in California. I'll take them to him the first of April. Right now everything is just tacked together, encase something has to be moved. The rectangular tube is 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall. I plan on inserting two pieces of flat bar inside the tubing to give extra strength. I drilled some holes in the upright tube so I can plug weld the flatbar in place.
No blue prints, for this little project.

 

[Gary Fowler]

In case everyone missed it, he is to be using these on a garden tractor (JD 318). I don't think he would have any problem with 1.5 or 2" angle. Putting the angle on 45 degree wont be as strong as having the angles at 90 degrees but the strength should still be sufficient for his uses with the garden tractor. I like Shield Arc's advice on putting a flat bar stiffener underneath if using the angle on a 45 degree to improve the stiffness with least amount of weight.

One problem I see with putting the angle iron on a 45 degree is the point loading on what you are lifting. A sharp edge might not be the best thing to use when lifting. I would just put the flat edge facing up. Do the weight test on the angle to check for deflection and if needed do as one member suggested, put two angles together and skip weld them to form a U section if you already have the angle iron. If not just buy some lightweight C channel iron which will be much stronger than angle.

 

[Danno1]

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If you want to use what you have, it wll be strongest to weld the flat bar across the open side of the triangle. Have that side facing up.



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[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

How about skip welding a piece of flatbar inside the angle iron?

I would change that orientation to closing the open side of the angle iron - this would put more metal farther away from the nuetral center axis and greatly reduces angle iron's inherent twisting. I would still skip weld as you have noted.

Additionally, angle iron loses it's load abilities quickly once the edges deform - closing the open side would help this issue.

Just out of curiousity, I looked up the moment of inertia numbers for angle iron - turning it on the 45 is a little less than half as "strong" as leaving it in a more normal configuration. Closing the open side would help.

Edit: I see Danno1 also covered this.