Can’t loosen hydraulic hose (not a quick connect)

[Eagle1]

I'll add that a lot of cheap open end wrenches will spread the jaws when you use a dead blow or hammer. Never managed to spread a good wrench but we tend to use the the cheap throw away ones when abuse is about to occur.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'll add that a lot of cheap open end wrenches will spread the jaws when you use a dead blow or hammer. Never managed to spread a good wrench but we tend to use the the cheap throw away ones when abuse is about to occur.

They always spread. The best "spring" back. The elastic modulus of steel is what it is; good steels or bad. The good will just endure more distortion, building higher force before it bends.

 

[Eagle1]

They always spread. The best "spring" back. The elastic modulus of steel is what it is; good steels or bad. The good will just endure more distortion, building higher force before it bends.

I have some el cheapo that now fit the next size up.... but they had a 3' pipe and 16 pound maul applied. My proto took that abuse, snap on & craftman just get a new one at the dealer.

 

[Eagle1]

I had sears replace 6 one inch sockets one day. 6 foot cheater on 1" drive breaker bar, with two 250 pound guys jumping on the pipe from a ladder. That damn nut came off late that day.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have some el cheapo that now fit the next size up.... but they had a 3' pipe and 16 pound maul applied. My proto took that abuse, snap on & craftman just get a new one at the dealer.

Interesting. Were they constructed equally, or did the proto have a heavier throat?

 

[Eagle1]

Interesting. Were they constructed equally, or did the proto have a heavier throat?

Proto 1970's a little heavier than Snapon and lighter than Craftsman. Priced in between before Snapon became crazy. Picked up a bunch at garage sales, etc in HS. Back in the days of no money and broke vehicles, back to that right now.
Still have most of the good tools from back in day.

 

[Mike1955]

View attachment 1311201

Where is the Socket wrench?

 

[1Mech]

Recently I had a similar situation, I have a small, 6" or 8" pipe wrench I used to break a fitting loose. The jaws were narrow enough to fit in there and grip it, then I used a socket and extension as a cheater pipe, could also use a small diameter pipe.

 

[coast40]

Where is the Socket wrench?

I cropped the so-called "socket wrench" out as they are called a ratchet in most tool catalogs. Seems to be an archaic term used in the beginnings of tool manufacturing. The line wrenches shown are also referred to as brake line or tubing wrenches. There are also thin wrenches for hydraulic hose fittings. For a deep dive into tools visit Alloy Artifacts Tool History Page

 

[threepiece]

Reading your post gave me an idea. Open ended wrenches at extremis on a hex tend to spread enough to start rounding the nut corners and that small "slippage" quickly worsens the situation as more torque is applied. I think that a small pre mod to the wrench end will allow adding impact torque without adding critical stress to the wrench throat. A small shelf needs to be ground into the outside of one jaw tip - right about where the hex point meets the inside of that jaw. At that point there should still be enough meat in the jaw to accommodate a 1/16" shelf and still be strong. This shelf would be tailored the give secure purchase to a blunted chisel tip.

Now you need a helper to apply significant CCW torque with the wrench while you deliver a sharp tangential blow. It should move.

I’m not following precisely here but I do know that conditions like this can benefit hugely with two people. Finding a way to apply a steady torque while applying impacting blows in the same direction is often the ticket to remove stubborn threaded connections. A grove cut into the fitting can serve as a land for a punch. I use this two person technique for separating arbors on slitting saws that were used in a milling machine.