Call me Mr. Lucky

[gcp]

Even I get lucky now and then I guess. This is a bushhog I landed on Thursday, from sheer luck, on the side of the road, for $175. Very heavy duty 4 footer that works like a charm. It was the first time I ever used a bushhog but there's not much to it as ong as one takes his time. Takes even good size saplings right out with out much problem.

Here's a couple fo shots of the fields I cleared, needed to be done for a long while now....

All in all a good day's works!

 

[YanmarFever]

Wow for 175 that looks like a heavy duty mower, with a little paint and your ready to go.
I wish they made them that heavy duty now days

Ernie.

 

[MJPetersen]

Very good looking cutter!! I like the stability of the 2 wheels and the large adjustment range for the wheels. Nice find.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[normde2001]

It's hard to tell if that's a flexible drive shaft or not, but the top link bracket is not. That's the reason for the bent brace and probably the gouges in your hillside. That is caused by the cutter being rigid and not following the contours of the ground. Guys sometimes use a chain instead of a toplink on machines like that to allow that flexibility.

 

[gcp]

Interesting comments, thanks normde. I thought the gouges had to do with my adjustments inexperience but maybe not. So, where exactly would I use a chain, could you point to the picture please? And what do you mean by "flexible driveshaft"? The drive shaft does slide in and out the shaft housing for adjustment to the PTO, and I found the hard way that it does flex side to side, since I stripped the left adjuster.

Maybe there are a few things that need to be done to this bush hog before I use it again? Any corrective comments will be welcomed!!

Actually, as indicated in the pic below, the top hitch assembly barely fits into the bush hog's top bracket, should I try to increase its width to allow for side to side move/flexibility?

 

[Eddie]

Where there is no flexibility built in the cutter hitch I have seen a chain used instead of the top link. that lets the cutter float and not bind up. I've seen chains people have made just for that with eyelets on each end to use with the pins.

 

[normde2001]

You don't want any side to side flexibility, but front to back, as Eddie said, with a chain attached where you have circled, replacing the toplink, long enough to allow the cutter to drop about 1 foot in the back, just so you can clear the ground for transport. make sure the drive shaft will accomodate the front to back, (up/down), movement Be sure and fix that sway chain to keep your lower arms out of the tires.

 

[gcp]

Guys, might you have a picture of this chain assembly and how it is used in place of the top link? A picture's worth 1K words.

Thanks,

 

[normde2001]

Guys, might you have a picture of this chain assembly and how it is used in place of the top link? A picture's worth 1K words.

Thanks,

I don't have a chain to get a picture of, but if you try mowing on hilly terrain without your toplink you will get the idea. be sure and fix that sway chain first.

 

[gcp]

Thanks Eddie and normde, it came to me while I was asleep...I obviously do my best thinking then I'll take pics of the set up once I complete it, maybe it'll help some other newbie.

On another subject, at least I got one of my headlights to work. I don't use the tractor at night much so one light will have to do for the time.