Buying Advice Cab or no cab?

   / Cab or no cab? #51  
FWIW, I went through generally the same process when deciding what to buy for our 10 ac., mostly wooded central Virginia home. The only additional thing I do that was not in your list is maintaining the 1.25 mi. twisty gravel road from our driveway to the paved county road.

I ended up with a Kioti CK3520SE Cab. I had been looking at the CK2620SE, mostly to minimize cost, then the 2620 cab model (decided the cab was a necessity, but still looking at the 25 HP to save money). My wife pushed me to get the 35 HP model, in part because we heard from several sources that the most common mistake by new tractor buyers is buying too little hp to save money, and then having to endure paying more to make up the trade-in loss on a higher HP tractor. Based on the tasks undertaken to date, 35 HP has turned out to be the better choice. For example, some of the gravel drive work may not have been handled well by the 25 HP model.

FWIW2, for Florida, *definitely* get the cab. I'm about to turn 65, and even at my (relatively) young age, I'm finding the summer heat to be much more draining than a few decades ago. I also hate bugs, and have hay fever issues that the Kioti's cab pre-filters greatly help with (not to mention knocking down the amount of inhaled dust/dirt).

Maybe it's the difference between 25HP and 35 HP, but I have not noticed a significant power drop when the AC is engaged.

And despite the general dislike for the greater than 25 HP emissions controls, I'm ok with the latest Kioti system (it helps that I do a fair amount of emissions-related patent work in my day job, so I know how these systems work). The one benefit of the DPF-equipped engines is the significantly cleaner exhaust -- and I don't mean the "save-the-planet" benefit, I mean the important-to-me benefit: standing near the exhaust I notice *far* less "diesel smell," which means much less carcinogenic particulates are reaching my lungs. Low-sulphur fuel helps reduce the smell, too, but not having to breath as much particulate is a good thing.

p.s. - almost forgot: life is significantly quieter in a closed cab. I can drive without hearing protection in situations where hearing protection would be absolutely necessary on an open station tractor.
 
   / Cab or no cab? #52  
The only thing I can think of that would be proprietary is the plate that attaches the starter to the tractor. A good shop that does motor rewinding should be able to repair the motor for considerably less than $1700.

^This. There's shops that specialize in rebuilding vehicle starters and alternators. I had the starter for my ancient John Deere rebuilt - cost a fraction of the price of a new one.
 
   / Cab or no cab? #53  
p.s. - almost forgot: life is significantly quieter in a closed cab. I can drive without hearing protection in situations where hearing protection would be absolutely necessary on an open station tractor.
Forgot about this - but for me this is a major one. When using my old John Deere I always have to wear ear plugs - the darn thing is really loud. After 10 hours wearing ear plugs those things get uncomfortable - and the irritation causes major ear wax buildup. No such problem in the cab of the Kubota - no ear plugs required and I can listen to music or an audiobook while working.
 
   / Cab or no cab? #54  
I think that for your situation, and your needs, an open station tractor with a loader is ideal. I have open station tractors and I bought my first cab tractor last year. The cab tractor has been awesome. It's allowed me to mow my land in the heat of the day, after I've done all my other chores, and be refreshed when I'm done mowing. My productivity has increased significantly.

But that doesn't mean you need a cab tractor. Here in East Texas, we get some brutal heat with horrible humidity. I'm guessing it's similar to your area of Florida. I can get a lot done in the morning, and early afternoon before it becomes horrible. Before I bought my cab tractor, I did most of my tractor work in the morning, and I was fine. Bugs where an issue, but I sprayed myself down and wore a ball cape to fight them off if they became aggressive. E Otherwise, it wasn't too bad.

TYM bought out Branson. Century used to be Branson. My first tractor is a Century, which is now under TYM. I need a starter. TYM wants over $1,700 for a starter for my tractor. I understand that it's a 20 year old tractor, but that amount of money for a starter is insulting. For that reason, I would never recommend TYM to anybody.
May be worth a call to Lancaster S&A. They did lots of stuff for the company including odd motors that ran hydraulic pumps in scissor lifts:
 

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   / Cab or no cab? #56  
Sir, treat yourself to a cab. Enjoy life to the fullest and all comforts you can afford. Take this advice from a 51 year old that has been used hard and put away wet.
 
   / Cab or no cab?
  • Thread Starter
#59  
The Kubota LX series cab, Kioti CK cab, or Yanmar YT235 cab would be about the size he’s looking for. They’d be about 4000lbs with loader, cab, and ballast. I’d hedge towards a 35hp machine to ensure he has the hp needed.
Right now, the Kioti CK2620SE HST CAB is tops on my list.
 
   / Cab or no cab?
  • Thread Starter
#60  
FWIW, I went through generally the same process when deciding what to buy for our 10 ac., mostly wooded central Virginia home. The only additional thing I do that was not in your list is maintaining the 1.25 mi. twisty gravel road from our driveway to the paved county road.

I ended up with a Kioti CK3520SE Cab. I had been looking at the CK2620SE, mostly to minimize cost, then the 2620 cab model (decided the cab was a necessity, but still looking at the 25 HP to save money). My wife pushed me to get the 35 HP model, in part because we heard from several sources that the most common mistake by new tractor buyers is buying too little hp to save money, and then having to endure paying more to make up the trade-in loss on a higher HP tractor. Based on the tasks undertaken to date, 35 HP has turned out to be the better choice. For example, some of the gravel drive work may not have been handled well by the 25 HP model.

FWIW2, for Florida, *definitely* get the cab. I'm about to turn 65, and even at my (relatively) young age, I'm finding the summer heat to be much more draining than a few decades ago. I also hate bugs, and have hay fever issues that the Kioti's cab pre-filters greatly help with (not to mention knocking down the amount of inhaled dust/dirt).

Maybe it's the difference between 25HP and 35 HP, but I have not noticed a significant power drop when the AC is engaged.

And despite the general dislike for the greater than 25 HP emissions controls, I'm ok with the latest Kioti system (it helps that I do a fair amount of emissions-related patent work in my day job, so I know how these systems work). The one benefit of the DPF-equipped engines is the significantly cleaner exhaust -- and I don't mean the "save-the-planet" benefit, I mean the important-to-me benefit: standing near the exhaust I notice *far* less "diesel smell," which means much less carcinogenic particulates are reaching my lungs. Low-sulphur fuel helps reduce the smell, too, but not having to breath as much particulate is a good thing.

p.s. - almost forgot: life is significantly quieter in a closed cab. I can drive without hearing protection in situations where hearing protection would be absolutely necessary on an open station tractor.
Just how much of a maintenance issue is the emissions crap to have to deal with? I was talking to a salesman at a Kioti dealer yesterday and he was telling me that the CK2620SE HST CAB has that diesel emissions control stuff on it too, even though it is a <25hp motor. He said Kioti is doing something different rather than requiring DEF. They are using high temps to burn off the carbon of whatever. First I had heard about that. And yeah, I hear you about the diesel small. I really HATE it.
 
 
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