BX25D: What is this? And should I drill it or weld it?

[JK22]

I'm trying to finish a chainsaw mount. I tried to use click bond fasteners to avoid welding/drilling, but can't get the epoxy to hold on one of them so I'm moving on. So can anyone identify this? It appears to just be a support for the plastic "floorboard." But I'm not 100% sure. Should I drill it or weld it? Any reason I shouldn't do either? (Ignore the bolt sticking out in the second and third pictures--that's the click bond fastener that survived. Will be removed).





Here are some pictures of what it will look like (and did, until the epoxy failed). As a side note, I have used Click Bond fasteners on other projects and I like the product, just not right for this project. I will do a full write-up once I find a solution.

 

[JK22]

I could also go to the frame, but I'd rather not. It's 1/4" thick and I'd rather not mess with the frame. I'd also have to fab up something new to close the gap. The piece in question appears to be easily replaceable if necessary.

 

[Snobdds]

Grind off the paint and etch the metal with some acid to get the epoxy to hold...

I go through great pains to not weld or drill holes on the tractors. Epoxy will hold, just need to have bare, etched metal.

 

[JWR]

I see no reason not to drill holes and bolt on whatever bracket fits your intent. Why not ? No real advantage to epoxy (or any adhesive) and bolts are more reliable -- plus you can unbolt it anytime you feel like it.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm trying to finish a chainsaw mount. I tried to use click bond fasteners to avoid welding/drilling, but can't get the epoxy to hold on one of them so I'm moving on. So can anyone identify this? It appears to just be a support for the plastic "floorboard." But I'm not 100% sure. Should I drill it or weld it? Any reason I shouldn't do either? (Ignore the bolt sticking out in the second and third pictures--that's the click bond fastener that survived. Will be removed).

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Here are some pictures of what it will look like (and did, until the epoxy failed). As a side note, I have used Click Bond fasteners on other projects and I like the product, just not right for this project. I will do a full write-up once I find a solution.
View attachment 508203

JK, what adhesive are you using? There is absolutely no reason the studs won't work when bonding to bare metal unless you are bonding to a dirty surface. Looks like the bond failed because of bad prep on the tractor side. Did you use the pressure application fixture that they came with? Proper install and adhesive and you could take a hammer to it and bend the stud over before failure.

Love to help you out... something isn't right.

 

[JK22]

JK, what adhesive are you using? There is absolutely no reason the studs won't work when bonding to bare metal unless you are bonding to a dirty surface. Looks like the bond failed because of bad prep on the tractor side. Did you use the pressure application fixture that they came with? Proper install and adhesive and you could take a hammer to it and bend the stud over before failure.

Love to help you out... something isn't right.

Hi Dragon- I tried the Click Bond adhesive first and then tried two-part JB Weld Kwik-Weld. I did use the pressure application fixture in two out of three attempts. The left stud popped off all three times when tightening the lock nuts. I might give it one more try with the last adhesive kit I have left, but I was saving it for a ROPS mount idea. I admit that I probably went too sparingly on the ClickBond epoxy the first time around. The right side popped off the first time, but held steady after I tried again with more epoxy. I think my surface prep was good, I used a 60grit pad on an angle grinder. Pictures below. (I did replicate your toolbox and I'm very happy with it and will post pictures tonight.)

Edit: to be more specific, I used the cb200 adhesive.

 

[Clay45]

I'm trying to finish a chainsaw mount. I tried to use click bond fasteners to avoid welding/drilling, but can't get the epoxy to hold on one of them so I'm moving on. So can anyone identify this? It appears to just be a support for the plastic "floorboard." But I'm not 100% sure. Should I drill it or weld it? Any reason I shouldn't do either? (Ignore the bolt sticking out in the second and third pictures--that's the click bond fastener that survived. Will be removed).

View attachment 508201
View attachment 508205
View attachment 508202

Here are some pictures of what it will look like (and did, until the epoxy failed). As a side note, I have used Click Bond fasteners on other projects and I like the product, just not right for this project. I will do a full write-up once I find a solution.
View attachment 508203

In the first pic the round parts look like knock-outs on a junction box. Perhaps for remote hydraulics? Chainsaw scabbard looks interesting too.

 

[JK22]

In the first pic the round parts look like knock-outs on a junction box. Perhaps for remote hydraulics? Chainsaw scabbard looks interesting too.

First pic--that's just felt tip marker, to identify the area to grind off paint to provide a good bond with the click bond stud (a no weld/no drill epoxy bond product). The identified area is solid steel.

Chain saw scabbard is a SawGrip universal scabbard mounted to a post I made. SawGrip - Chainsaw carrier for your ATV | Delta, Colorado | (97) 874-8246. All of this info was going to go in a success/how to thread, but I guess I'm forced to spill the beans early.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Unless you have no drill driver or drill bit, I have no idea why you wouldn't just drill a hole and bolt all that in place. Why take a chance on epoxy breaking and possibly running over your chain saw. Drilling 1/4" holes in the area is not going to weaken it. I prefer bolting on things like that rather than welding. Less damage to the paint that way and a quick paint touchup of the drilled hole will prevent any rusting. Also easier to relocate without cosmetic damage to the tractor.

 

[JWR]

Amen brother Gary ! Exactly what I say. I might lobby for 5/16" bolts...