BX24 Wire Harness

[radioman]

able to loosen the floor boards, but struggling with the removal of the Rear Fender. took ROPS off, then there is the handle on the left ... a nut that needs a serious socket wrench extension to get any turn on it. Anyone ever remove this? know what size extension on the socket to use? Anyone ever take off that rear fender? after this there is the PTO dial (if thats what its called) and the belly mount adjusting dial. from the looks of it the large round handles of the dials need to be removed -how the heck do i take this off? My plan was to do all this breakdown tonight but got stuck on the fender.

So far as the wireharness goes - this is a big ole strand of wires with some real tight corners. they must make small hands in Georgia and Japan. this is somewhat reverse engineering to remove the old, add in the new, but man its tight.

please help me on the know how to remove the rear fender...

I haven't removed th fender yet- but i do know the knobs just pull straight off, otheer tbn'er had hard time too. (its a 3 pt draft control to control down rate speed not pto dail)
as for handle on left, are you referring to the holding handle ? its 14mm socket.
good luck.

 

[gwdemos]

yeah, saw a post on removing the dial handles, I will put the heat gun to it and see if it will budge. yes, the handle to the left of the seat, i think it will require a 6" socket ext no room to turn otherwise.

next problem i'm wonder about: FUEL PUMP. messicks says a 30 sec turn of the key will purge air in the line. i was able to get her running, but when going UPHILL she bogged down and died. perhaps just the filter, which i just changed, question is: if the FUEL PUMP was dead, would the engine get any fuel whatsoever? in other words, if the FUEL PUMP were dead that means it would simply not start - correct?

 

[gwdemos]

Here's an update, this is a sizable job. Floor and Fender Must come off, seat must com off, of course the full ROPS assembly including brace that holds fuel tank (one under ROPS that 19mm bolts to the subframe) and the forked bracket at the front of the tank.

starting at the headlights, pretty straight forward, turning up under the dash was a bear. snake the hazard/light switch gang wires and plugs up over the dash frame, and very tricky plugging in the gauges, more difficult plugging in the ignition (couldnt figure out how to remove the ignition.)

Then time to remove the rear fender -needless to say alot of cleaning thereafter, compressed air helps & a good shop vac, particularly blasting debris out from under the fuel tank and every other hidden corner.

there is a 12 v plug that is tough, and the safety switch adjacent (far under right corner of seat) must be removed to plug/unplug. prop up the fuel tank, bring all rear wires under the tank (rear lights etc).

doing this once is all i'd wish on anyone, although a second time around would go quicker. this is a total breakdown but i've learned a good deal about the tractor in the process. not done yet, moment of truth hopefully later today.