BX24 Steering Driftng

[dougtrr2]

On the leading edge of a steering issue. Not quite ready to tear into it yet, but want some ideas on what I might be up against. And whether it is within a slightly above average tractor owner's ability.

I know the steering wheel slowly changes position in use, doesn't bother me. But this spring it seems like the steering is drifting more that it used to. It doesn't seem to favor one side over the other but it will start to drift to the side. It will correct, but that seems a little mushy. To me, it would seem to mean a seal is leaking somewhere. How can I isolate which one? Years ago I replaced a leaking front axle seal so I might tackle it myself if it is not too hard.

Thoughts?

Doug in SW IA

 

[RjCorazza]

I would start with checking the toe in adjustment.

 

[Tinhack]

By changing position, do you mean the center is changing? Don't know your tractor but I'd be looking at power steering. If you have PS, does it use a separate pump? If so, check the fluid level.

If the PS is driven off tractor hydraulics, you could have a problem in the rotary valve. This is the valve that makes up the steering column. When the steering wheel is turned, this valve directs pressure to the steering cylinder(s) to turn the wheels.

 

[diesel85]

BX machines use the transmission as the pump for everything.

 

[dougtrr2]

Update. Did my first mowing of the season. The steering has definitely changed. It does not hold a straight line like it used to. It will drift, doesn't really seem to favor one side or the other. Once I put in some correction it will hold for a while but it will drift. More annoying than anything, but it does mean I have to pay more attention to where I am going.

Has anyone worked on the steering for a BX?

Doug in SW IA

 

[KWentling]

Likely need to reseal the steering cylinder. South Main Auto Repair on Youtube has a good video on doing the repair on a BX. Inspired me to get around to fixing my BX22.

 

[dougtrr2]

Problem was fixed by replacing the steering cylinder. A seal kit was $50 and a new cylinder was $230. I went with the entire unit because I was afraid, with my luck, I would get it all apart and then find out there was internal damage. Small chance of that but I just didn't want to do the job twice.

The replacement is pretty self evident but some tight quarters. The tie rod ends popped out fairly easily with a tie rod tool and some light tapping. But unscrewing the tie rods from the ends of the cylinder was tough. One end came right off the other end was fairly stubborn. Both ends are right hand thread.

The hydraulic fittings are hard to reach. But they are flare fittings so you don't have to worry about getting your sealant of choice applied.

I drove around a little making several lock to lock circles. The steering is now rock solid again. That was a relief as the other component of this system was over $900. That is the part that is attached directly to the steering wheel.

The video referenced above is good.

It covers the rebuild very well, but glosses over the removal part. I didn't watch it until after I was done, but after watching it I am glad I went with the whole cylinder. Snap rings and I don't play well together.

The whole job took less than three hours.

Doug in SW IA

 

[oldballs]

Doug...........thanks for posting that video link. I don't have the problem, but it was quite interesting and entertaining to watch the whole video.

Cheers,
Mike