BX2370 vs. BX2670

[2Bad4u]

My dealer automatically loads the rear tires when an FEL is ordered. This works well.

Can someone please explain what loading the tires means. I'm guessing that the dealer fills the rear tires with some type of liquid to provide the rear ballast?

If a liquid is used I assume that it will not freeze in the winter months?

Does it work effectively for both the FEL and snow blower?

Assuming I have the room to manoeuvre the tractor with a box blade installed, should I just forget about using loaded tires and just add a box blade for rear ballast?

When used with R3 turf tires, does the rear ballast (ballast box, loaded tires, box blade) damage the grass due to the additional weight - or is it better to remove the rear ballast when mowing?

Sorry for all the elementary questions, but as I previously mentioned I'm new to all of this.

Thanks!

-- Bill --

 

[repair1]

Bill,

You are correct, loading the tires means installing some type of liquid ballast in the tires. If you search these forums you could probably read all day and most of the night about the subject. Rim Guard seems to be the preferred product because it is not supposed to corrode the rims and is ecologically friendly if it leaks out. Some people use calcium chloride and other antifreeze water mixes.

Personally, I don't have loaded tires because 1) my lot is pretty much level and slope stability is not an issue, 2) we have heavy clay soil that will rut very easily when it is wet and 3) I don't think the BX size tires would hold enough ballast to be effective on their own. I prefer to use my back blade as ballast when using the FEL and removing everything when mowing. I do not have a ballast box. Also, it depends on what I am moving with the loader. If it is just mulch I don't use ballast but if I am moving heavy wet clay I will use the box blade (325lbs) and maybe add 3 or 4 cement blocks to it. Just remember, when you are using the loader the tractor will be less stable than without it. Always transport materials as close to the ground as possible and don't turn quickly with the loader raised. I hope this answers some of your questions. It is wiser to ask questions before the purchase rather than question yourself afterwards.

Bob

 

[TripleR]

I have wheel weights on our BX2660 and loaded tires on our BX2200 and still like ballast on the 3PH.

 

[rbarker]

Can someone please explain what loading the tires means. I'm guessing that the dealer fills the rear tires with some type of liquid to provide the rear ballast?

If a liquid is used I assume that it will not freeze in the winter months?

Does it work effectively for both the FEL and snow blower?

Assuming I have the room to manoeuvre the tractor with a box blade installed, should I just forget about using loaded tires and just add a box blade for rear ballast?

When used with R3 turf tires, does the rear ballast (ballast box, loaded tires, box blade) damage the grass due to the additional weight - or is it better to remove the rear ballast when mowing?

Sorry for all the elementary questions, but as I previously mentioned I'm new to all of this.

Thanks!

-- Bill --

I did not load my tires either because a significant part of the tractors job is mowing the lawn and I didn't want the extra weight all the time. I remove the loader and any rear impairments to mow because its much more maneuverable that way. Loaded tires would help with ballast but I'm not sure it would be enough for heavy loads. It would help with stability if you had hilly terrain but if I recall correctly you have one acre with a very gentle slope.

As mentioned before never lift a load any higher than necessary to accomplish the task and keep the speed low when doing so. The higher the load the less stable the tractor is. Also, the hydro pedal is not like a gas pedal in your car. Pushing it further makes the tractor want to go faster but doesn't accelerate the engine. If you start to bog down let off on the hydro to gain more power. Lastly, try not to let your Wife see you grinning too much, it's supposed to be work after all....

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I to recommend a boxblade instead of a ballast box which does not normally come with a FEL. As others have said, the boxblade can be used for many different jobs, can stay on the tractor all of the time and will provide the weight needed to ballast the front end. I to have never understood why anyone would buy a weight box over a boxblade (yes I know BB cost more). If I was going to buy a weight/ballast box I'd make my own out of sakrete, scrap steel or even exercise weight bar with dumb bell weights (which sell for almost nothing at thrift stores and yard/garage sales).:2cents:

 

[2Bad4u]

Thanks for all of the information everyone, VERY helpful indeed. When looking at all of the options that were presented the BB appears to be my best choice. Gaining another useful implement, for very little money is also a big bonus. Especially when a ballast box no longer needs to be purchased.

The topographical survey was just completed last week and the 1 acre lot is almost dead flat. From where the back of the house will be to the waterfront will be approximately 210'. Within that 210' the grade only drops down by 2'. When walking the property it looks and feels like it is dead flat. Given the topology of the property it sounds like I should only have the 60" MMM attached when mowing the lawn.

Also, many thanks for all of your driving safety tips.


-- Bill --