Mowing BX2350 mower deck re-install

Jibber · May 17, 2007

Tell me this gets easier.

Just got the tractor yesterday.. I had no problem getting the loader off or back on.. smoother than my bigger L3130 because I can budge the loader around by hand to get it in the proper position.

The mowing deck (60 inch) came off just as it's supposed to. And, I had no problem getting the PTO shaft on as some others on this forum have. (used to jiggling those things around).. BUT.. getting those two rear pins to seat was a major pain.. I could get one in.. but the other would get caught on the inside journal of the lift arm and prevent me from moving the thing into position to seat the pin. I finally got aggressive and jerked the thing repeatedly until it skipped past the journal. I don't want to file the thing or otherwise alter it to make it easier.. but there has to be a better way!

Any of you BX people have the same problem and if so how did you get past it?

I'd like to put this deck on and off for mowing.. in other words.. pretty frequently.

I had bugaboos like this with my backhoe on the 3130 until I learned how to jiggle it in using the hydraulics. No hydraulic help for this one..

I'm removing and installing on a flat concrete floor.

thanks for any advice.

Volfandt · May 17, 2007

I frequently have my 60" MMM on & off my BX23, which is similar to your setup, and I follow the same procedure every time and it seems to work very well for me. R&R'ing the mower takes between 5 & 10 minutes but never over 10, unless we count the 1st time

To remount the mower I 1st connect the PTO shaft. Being able to slide the mower around to get at the shaft makes it very easy.

With the depth guage set at 00 I then slowly drop the links which allows me a last second adjustment of the mower as they drop into place

I found that it's always easier to set the right side pin 1st, don't know why, it just goes easier, then I set the left side. Lately the left side has taken alittle more fin-agle'n to get it fully seated. I always say that I'm going to check the mounting bracket on both the MMM and lift link to make sure they're plumb the next time I take it off, but haven't yet, I guess I will when it gets real hard

Lastly I then hook up the front link.

This works for me. In your case, seeing as how it's brand new, you might try alternately seating one or the other pin 1st to see if it makes a difference. If not then a little fine adjustment wouldn't be out of the question BUT I wouldn't go to crazy with it.

Good luck

Jibber · May 17, 2007

Volfandt said:
I frequently have my 60" MMM on & off my BX23, which is similar to your setup, and I follow the same procedure every time and it seems to work very well for me. R&R'ing the mower takes between 5 & 10 minutes but never over 10, unless we count the 1st time
To remount the mower I 1st connect the PTO shaft. Being able to slide the mower around to get at the shaft makes it very easy.

With the depth guage set at 00 I then slowly drop the links which allows me a last second adjustment of the mower as they drop into place

I found that it's always easier to set the right side pin 1st, don't know why, it just goes easier, then I set the left side. Lately the left side has taken alittle more fin-agle'n to get it fully seated. I always say that I'm going to check the mounting bracket on both the MMM and lift link to make sure they're plumb the next time I take it off, but haven't yet, I guess I will when it gets real hard

Lastly I then hook up the front link.

This works for me. In your case, seeing as how it's brand new, you might try alternately seating one or the other pin 1st to see if it makes a difference. If not then a little fine adjustment wouldn't be out of the question BUT I wouldn't go to crazy with it.

Good luck

I did try right side first.. then left side.. didn't seem to make it any easier. It may be just a matter of a fraction of an inch of metal.. I also tried to do both sides at once.. in other words.. edging it forward a little left then right then left.. thinking that the clearance is so close.. maybe the angle of putting one side all the way in first was enough to catch it on the other side.

What kind of "adjustment" do you mean? I didn't see any way to move the lift bracket arms.. and the pin mounts on the deck are welded in there.

thanks again

MOPAULY · May 17, 2007

This last time I had to remove my deck for the 50 hour service, upon reinstallation I connected the front link first, to help keep it straight. I then did the driveshaft and the rear links pretty much lowered right into place. Granted this is the 54" deck but it seemed to work well.

mikerose · May 5, 2015

I have to do this too, for the first time. I searched all over for videos showing this, but all I found were videos for REMOVING the deck, which I'd followed in the fall when I took it off. Those videos were very helpful and I figured I'd have no problem finding one showing the reverse, but so far I've struck out, only finding this thread. Am I missing something? I watched an experienced service guy really struggle to get the deck back on so I was hoping to find out the exact, correct procedure for this. Thanks.

dodge man · May 5, 2015

I'll give you my ideas.

First off, turn the deck wheels sideways. I've done this without doing it but it makes it easier. Also do it on concrete if possible. Get the 3 point hitch and the mower deck links up all the way to.

I then slide the deck under, I always go from the left side but for no good reason. Sometimes you have to jocky it a little bit to get it to slide under.

Then I hook up the two rear links. You have to get the deck into the almost perfect position to make this happen. Then lower the 3 point to get the deck links down low enough. There are some pins that have to line up, they can be locked open, there is a little notch for this. If the pins are not quite going into place on the deck but are close, I jiggle the deck and they will pop in.

I then hook up the pto. This is the most awkward. The pto shaft will come apart in half. You don't want this, you want it put together and then pull the collar back and slide it on to the tractor. Sometimes I fight this for 5 minutes, sometimes it takes 5 seconds.

I then hook up the front link. I hook the long link to the deck and then put the pivot on and slide it up and lock it. It has a pin a lot like the rear links for the deck does. It may take you a minute to figure out how that grabs the long bracket, hooks up to the tractor, and then pivots up and locks in place.

Hope this helps, sometimes this takes me about 10 minutes to do, sometimes 15, and it probably took me 30 minutes the first time.

RaydaKub · May 5, 2015

No video. But it's easier with a loader. If you have it on, lift the front wheels up enough that the mower can roll under them. Line it up with the rear wheels and far enough back to touch them. They will roll backwards when you drop the front down. Attach the drive shaft. Drop the front down slowly, may have to adjust the mower backwards even more. Attach the front mount bracket to the mower, then the tractor. Slide the mower around some to line up lift arms and attach them. Lift mower high enough to get the weight off the guide wheels so you can rotate them back to forwards instead of sideways.

If you don't have the loader on, you have to roll it in between the wheels and manually position it forward and backwards to get it around the front tires, but the rest is basically the same.

Edit: Obviously Dodgeman and I have different methods. There is no wrong or right way, but experiment with these and find what works best for you.

bellweather · May 5, 2015

I have no issues with the rear links (mower height adjustment at 0) and no problem with the front links, piece of cake. The big PITA is the PTO. In order to resist trashing the tractor with a sledge hammer out of frustration, I remove the LR wheel, which gives me good access to the PTO connection.

Totaharbin · May 5, 2015

I. Bought. Some cheap casters. Attached them to. A piece of plywood. I slide it under my mower deck. Drop it on it roll it out. Use a. Small ratchet chainfall. To lift it to. Do maintenance. On deck.and blades. Let back. Down. Roll it right. Back under tractor. To replace. Can. Remove or. Install in. 15 min. By myself.

mikerose · May 6, 2015

Thanks very much Dave, I guess there's no "secret" that my service guy did not know. And it sure sounds like what I do to remove the deck, but in reverse, so it makes sense. I'll have to resign myself that it's not a five minute job and just have at it.

mikerose · May 6, 2015

RaydaKub said:
No video. But it's easier with a loader. If you have it on, lift the front wheels up enough that the mower can roll under them. Line it up with the rear wheels and far enough back to touch them. They will roll backwards when you drop the front down. Attach the drive shaft. Drop the front down slowly, may have to adjust the mower backwards even more. Attach the front mount bracket to the mower, then the tractor. Slide the mower around some to line up lift arms and attach them. Lift mower high enough to get the weight off the guide wheels so you can rotate them back to forwards instead of sideways.

If you don't have the loader on, you have to roll it in between the wheels and manually position it forward and backwards to get it around the front tires, but the rest is basically the same.

Edit: Obviously Dodgeman and I have different methods. There is no wrong or right way, but experiment with these and find what works best for you.

Interesting. I DO have the loader on as I never take it off, it's just too useful to ever have it off, since its the primary reason I have the tractor. Believe it or not, cutting the grass is secondary. But since the deck has wheels and tends to roll easily right under the tractor, I'm not sure what I'm gaining by using the bucket to lift the tractor front, maybe I'm missing something? I do appreciate the reply though, thanks!

dodge man · May 6, 2015

The mower is a tight fit going under the tractor so it makes it easier to wheel it under, the front wheels don't get in the way as much. The loader is in the way though when I go to hook up the front though for me.

RaydaKub · May 6, 2015

mikerose said:
Interesting. I DO have the loader on as I never take it off, it's just too useful to ever have it off, since its the primary reason I have the tractor. Believe it or not, cutting the grass is secondary. But since the deck has wheels and tends to roll easily right under the tractor, I'm not sure what I'm gaining by using the bucket to lift the tractor front, maybe I'm missing something? I do appreciate the reply though, thanks!

What size mower? Mine is the 60 inch and you have to jockey it forward and backward to clear the brackets and guide wheels in between the front and rear tires as you roll it out sideways. Maybe if you have the 54 incher it is easier?

Jeff F. · May 6, 2015

I find it quite easy to do on concrete. Slide the deck under about 3/4 of the way from right to left. Next hook up the pto shaft. Slide the deck under the rest of the way and hook up the rear brackets after lowering them. Finally hook up the front. It should take less than 10 minutes. Good luck

VH5150 · May 6, 2015

I agree with what others have written--definitely easier to do on concrete. I, too, have yelled a few colorful adjectives at my Kubota when trying to attach the PTO shaft and I think I'd rather be water-boarded than try to hook up that PTO shaft. I'm going to try using the FEL to lift the front wheels next time I hook up the MMM.

Poopdeck Pappy · May 6, 2015

The rear wheels on my 60" mmm deck are frozen, and I can't get them loose. I'm working on it, but at this point even Kroil hasn't loosened them up. So I have to manhandle the deck out from under the tractor. It's do-able, but not a fun experience.

I just bought a rear finish mower, so I may not have to use the MMM much from now on.

jesseb3@att.net · May 8, 2015

Poopdeck, I had the same thing happen, and it is due to rust as (I'm sure you've figured out by now!) The only way I managed to remove them is to take the wheels off. Then use a large wrench on the wheel-end of the shaft - you'll notice it has flat spots. By turning the shaft back and forth, adding more oil, smacking with hammer (use wood blocks, or you'll mushroom the end of the shaft...it's soft.) etc, I worked mine out. I then sanded the heck out of the shaft and cleaned the deck mounts thoroughly. Slides like butter now.

Good luck
Jesse

mikerose · May 9, 2015

mikerose said:
Interesting. I DO have the loader on as I never take it off, it's just too useful to ever have it off, since its the primary reason I have the tractor. Believe it or not, cutting the grass is secondary. But since the deck has wheels and tends to roll easily right under the tractor, I'm not sure what I'm gaining by using the bucket to lift the tractor front, maybe I'm missing something? I do appreciate the reply though, thanks!

I just wanted to thank everyone who gave me all this great info! I put the deck on today in no more than 10-12 minutes by taking the best from each set of methods and reasoning it out. Using the loader to raise the front wheels was brilliant! I got the deck under the mower quite easily that way. And then I dropped the rear brackets and got them lined up, but before I did anything else I hooked up the PTO, again very easily, just a little jiggling. Then I pulled the pins and connected the rear brackets, lowered the front, hooked up the front bracket and I was ready to mow! The whole process was so straightforward that I don't think I'd hesitate to do it in mid-season if I needed more ground clearance when doing FEL stuff. Thanks again, this is a terrific forum!!

Poopdeck Pappy · May 10, 2015

jesseb3@att.net said:
Poopdeck, I had the same thing happen, and it is due to rust as (I'm sure you've figured out by now!) The only way I managed to remove them is to take the wheels off. Then use a large wrench on the wheel-end of the shaft - you'll notice it has flat spots. By turning the shaft back and forth, adding more oil, smacking with hammer (use wood blocks, or you'll mushroom the end of the shaft...it's soft.) etc, I worked mine out. I then sanded the heck out of the shaft and cleaned the deck mounts thoroughly. Slides like butter now.

Good luck
Jesse

Thanks, Jesse. I've give that a try. I've been out of town and haven't worked on them yet, but it's raining here and that sounds like a good rainy day project.