Backhoe BX23 Bachoe won't come off

[ArtyB]

Just bought a 2005 BX23 with 267 hours that was not treated lovingly. I wanted to take the BH off (evidently for the first time) and followed all of the instructions in the manual.

When I got to step 5 "Slowly raise the boom and hold at full height (approx. 5 second) to disengage the mount holder from the tractor mount pins.", nothing happens.

Is this supposed to be a hydraulic disengagement or just the effect of gravity? I sprayed WD40 on everything that looked like it might move, but nothing. I can't really tell from the picture on the boom exactly what's supposed to be happening.

Any help is appreciated and will stave off a serious case of buyers' remorse...

thanks, Richard

 

[Grandad4]

Here are some videos... maybe they will help.

Removing the Kubota BX24 backhoe - YouTube

Attaching the backhoe on the Kubota BX24 - YouTube

Just noticed they are for a BX24, not 23, but maybe enough similar to get the basic idea? Here's a thread about this topic also:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...question.html?highlight=removing+backhoe+BX24

 

[ArtyB]

Grandad4, thanks for the quick response, but the BX23 is a different system (BT600 vs. the BT601 on the BX24).

Richard

 

[timswi]

Grandad4, thanks for the quick response, but the BX23 is a different system (BT600 vs. the BT601 on the BX24).

Richard

First, put the stabilizers 18" off of the gound. Pull the boom pin and roll the bucket up tight. Put the bucket on the ground enough to slightly lift the back wheels. Take the pressure off of both release arms and place the cotter pin back in with the spring under pressure on both sides. Pull the boom back up slowly and the BH will disconnect from the top. Use the stabilizers to lift the bottom out of the cadle and drive ahead about 7-8" (NOT TOO FAR)...pull the boom all the way back so that the BH frame is on the ground. Disconnect the Hydro lines and re-connect the circuit hydro's on the tractor.

Once you get it the first time, it takes about 2-5 minutes to do this.

 

[radioman]

First, put the stabilizers 18" off of the gound. Pull the boom pin and roll the bucket up tight. Put the bucket on the ground enough to slightly lift the back wheels. Take the pressure off of both release arms and place the cotter pin back in with the spring under pressure on both sides. Pull the boom back up slowly and the BH will disconnect from the top. Use the stabilizers to lift the bottom out of the cadle and drive ahead about 7-8" (NOT TOO FAR)...pull the boom all the way back so that the BH frame is on the ground. Disconnect the Hydro lines and re-connect the circuit hydro's on the tractor.

Once you get it the first time, it takes about 2-5 minutes to do this.

hmm -- pretty simalar to bx24... I'd watch those utube videos to get a better idea.

 

[tommu56]

First, put the stabilizers 18" off of the gound. Pull the boom pin and roll the bucket up tight. Put the bucket on the ground enough to slightly lift the back wheels. Take the pressure off of both release arms and place the cotter pin back in with the spring under pressure on both sides. Pull the boom back up slowly and the BH will disconnect from the top. Use the stabilizers to lift the bottom out of the cadle and drive ahead about 7-8" (NOT TOO FAR)...pull the boom all the way back so that the BH frame is on the ground. Turn off tractor and move the loader levers to relieve any leftover pressure. Disconnect the Hydro lines and re-connect the circuit hydro's on the tractor. Connect the hoe's lines together too to keep them clean and prevent pressure build up with temperature change.

Once you get it the first time, it takes about 2-5 minutes to do this.

The top catches resemble the ones on a car door 2 paws that catch a pin on the frame.

You have to remove a hair pin cotter and pull the handle back and put the cotter back in on the other side of the bracket to hold it back while tractor is up in the air.


This lets the cams open and rotate off the pin at the top mount .

Be carefuller when moving it with the dipper stick and the outriggers you can hit the sheet metal on the rear of the tractor. You have to roll it to the rear off the top mount then the out riggers lift it off the bottom.

Do it at idle it will slow down the movement and make sloooow moves easier.
hooking it up is harder than removing it in my opinion

Just remember that the hoeis the counter weight for the loader it gets tipsy unless you have an attachment on it when using the loader.

tom

 

[Jabroni]

I've found the clearance between the pins and the holes are very close. ANY unbalance in the hoe will make those pins difficult to impossible to pull. In addition to the manual instructions for removing the hoe, I also sometimes use the outriggers to counter the unbalance effect. This must be done with a deft touch. As I apply pressure to one outrigger, I am wiggling the pin. When just enough pressure is applied, the pin will rotate in the hole and removal can then be done. However!... you must be able to freely remove both pins at once. You can't do one side, then the other. I adjust each outrigger until both pins can be pulled. A flat location like the garage floor makes it very easy to do. Suggestion: I got a backhoe dolly which makes removal very easy. Then it can be stored whever you'd like.

 

[OrangeBeast]

If I understand right you have the BT600 same as I have on my BX22.. I found with mine that when the hoe is balanced and the pin won稚 pull out to release the claws a hammer on the handle is helpful. My right side won稚 release by hand most of the time and I have to coax it out. Don稚 hit it too hard but it can take a bit. I have tried greasing it when putting it on to help get it off the next time with no success!

I know a hammer is not the best solution but it works for me.

Some times you just have to show it who's boss. LOL

 

[ArtyB]

Thanks to all that posted. After lots of liquid wrench and WD40, some hammering, and about an hour of working the boom, I finally got it off!

You guys are a great help! Richard

 

[jnjpream]

Had the same issue on my BX22. After getting it off I disassembled all the pins and hooks cleaned and greased every moving thing I could and that fixed it right up. Need to do that every now and then or the rust, dirt, and old sticky grease will make things difficult for you right when you want it to happen the least.

 

[timswi]

Thanks to all that posted. After lots of liquid wrench and WD40, some hammering, and about an hour of working the boom, I finally got it off!

You guys are a great help! Richard

Wow, has that BH been on there since new?...I thought there was a process issue, not a rust one. Mine's a 2004, and there's not a speck of rust on anything except the BH & FEL buckets.

 

[Volfandt]

Wow, has that BH been on there since new?...I thought there was a process issue, not a rust one. Mine's a 2004, and there's not a speck of rust on anything except the BH & FEL buckets.

Must have bought it from LB

Actually, R&R'ing the BH on a BX22/BX23 is very easy, eaiser than the newer BX TLB's as they don't have the locking jaws, they have to align two pins at the upper connection.

As been said, draw the dipper close in, lower it until the bucket contacts the ground then continue to lower it as it slightly lifts the rear wheels off the ground.
Theres a pull handle on the locking jaws, remove the clip, pull it back toweards the BH, and reinsert the clip so it holds the pull handle all the way back. Do this for both sides. This allows the locking jaws to open.
Now using the BH controls, tilt the entire BHoe back, this pulls the top of the BHoe's mounting points away from the subframe which inturn automatically opens the locking jaws.
Also, keep an eye on the lower mounting point as this is simultainiously pivoting the lower bar out of the lower subframe. You'll hit a sweet spot to where the top is fully out and clears the rear fender and the lower mounting rod is clear of the subframe. We're talking less than an inch of clearance on both. At this point you can either push or drive the tractor forward a couple inches. You can then tilt the BHoe forward and slowly lower it to the ground. Once fully down, shut the engine down disconnect the two hydraulic lines and plug them together. This is VERY important as you'll loose all your hydraulic functions if you don't loop those two lines on the tractor back together....

I dismount my BH onto a dollie so I don't use the outriggers for any assistance, I leave them up and secure them w/a bungie to keep them up and out of the way as I roll my BHoe around as needed. As been posted you can also use the outriggers to assist in mounting/dismounting and also use them as stabilizers once the BHoe is on the ground. It takes up alot more space this way tho.....

Once you've done it once you'll see how really easy it is.
Good luck
Dave

 

[radioman]

Must have bought it from LB


Dave

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[Scout2]

Let me ask if the handles that rotate on your tractors are loose on their shafts. My levers seem frozen to the shaft.

I removed the c-clips and the levers do not slide off as it would appear they should.

I have hit them with light and heavy hammers and also tried to move them with good sized monkey wrenches. In both cases, you can see the acutal shafts flexing/twisting so much so that I have to stop because I do not want to damage the bosses that hold the shafts.

I did all this after soaking everything in penetrating fluid for several weeks and following the instructions in the manual and after reading posts all over the net.

Thus, I think my next step is heat. Any other suggestions?

Anyone near Bucks County PA and want to lend a hand?

 

[MMH]

My neighbor had this problem. We had to cut off the handles that rotate. There was allot of corrosion between the pins & handles/sleeve that rotated around the pins. The replacement sleeves were only $35 ea.

 

[Scout2]

This is my last resort if heat does not work. What did you use to cut them off? My initial thought was a cutoff wheel. My dealer charges more than this. May have to shop them. Thank you MMH.

 

[jasonpeck22]

I had the same problem with the backhoe stuck. I took the c clips off and pounded the pins out took a little force but can be done. Once off i took the clamps apart and greased them has worked ever since. Hope this helps.

 

[MMH]

This is my last resort if heat does not work. What did you use to cut them off? My initial thought was a cutoff wheel. My dealer charges more than this. May have to shop them. Thank you MMH.

4" cutoff wheel on a grinder. Run a seem along the length of the sleeve/handle being careful not to cut into the pin. Don't worry about not being able to get the full length. Cutting will loosen them enough (release their grip on the pin) so that you should be able to get them off. Before installing new sleaves/handles clean up any galling/corrosion w/ emery/crocus cloth. When installing the new sleeves/handles, grease them well.

 

[MMH]

I had the same problem with the backhoe stuck. I took the c clips off and pounded the pins out took a little force but can be done. Once off i took the clamps apart and greased them has worked ever since. Hope this helps.

It depends on how bad they are rusted/galled on. My neighbor got them off previously as well, but it took alot of effort. This time, the pins would not budge. Maybe he did not clean them up w/ emery cloth & grease them.

 

[jasonpeck22]

Yes once off i used a wire wheel cleaned them real good then greased them real good.