BX2230 Lights vs Dyno power capacity

[lpp]

I have found two sets of lights to add to my BX2230 ROPS.

1. 3x5 35 watt 2 amp each

2. 3x5 or 4x6 55 watt 4 amp each with built in switch

The dealer says 1 is OK for the Dyno - 2 is pushing it. They DYNO is good for 10 amps.

I like the ones with built in switches. It may be too much amps for the DYNO.

Any one got a switch or wiring schmetic for the other if I wire direct to the wire under the seat ?

Or can I run 8 amps on the DYNO??
TXS
LPP

 

[149owner]

55W/12V= 4.58amps, 4.58X2= 9.16amps, 35W/12V= 2.92amps With two 55W lights on at the same time you are maxing out the charging system and probably not fully charging the battery. You can get away with it for short periods of time if you run the tractor without the lights on afterwards so the battery gets charged or connect a charger to it afterwards. I for one just don't like to max out any type of equipment (electrical or mechanical) on a regular basis. Some people have posted about using LED lights, which use less power, on their tractor. How about one 55W and one 35W light? There should be two wires under the seat- one a power and one a return. Connect the power wire to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch to the light and the other wire from the light gets connected to the return wire under the seat.

 

[Spudgunner]

55W/12V= 4.58amps, 4.58X2= 9.16amps, 35W/12V= 2.92amps With two 55W lights on at the same time you are maxing out the charging system and probably not fully charging the battery. You can get away with it for short periods of time if you run the tractor without the lights on afterwards so the battery gets charged or connect a charger to it afterwards. I for one just don't like to max out any type of equipment (electrical or mechanical) on a regular basis. Some people have posted about using LED lights, which use less power, on their tractor. How about one 55W and one 35W light? There should be two wires under the seat- one a power and one a return. Connect the power wire to one side of the switch, the other side of the switch to the light and the other wire from the light gets connected to the return wire under the seat.

On my BX23 the "under the seat" +12v wire was black with a red stripe (female connector) and the ground was black (no stripe) and had a male pin. The hot lead is energized whenever the key is not in the off position and is protected by a 20A fuse (ironic) within the fuse block. My BX came with the dyno as well.

 

[ByronBob]

I've upgraded my lights in the front of the tractor from the OEM's

Whats your intended need for more lights?

 

[MadReferee]

The dynamo on the B-series is 14 amps. I thought the same unit was also used on the BX series. Even so, using more than 2 55W lights is pushing it. If you are into lights then purchasing the 40 amp alternator upgrade for $180 or so would be a good investment.

 

[lpp]

The need - need some lights on the rear when hooking up things etc...

I found some adjustable brackets that are 2x3 light bracket that is quick detach and are adjustable. The are from Messicks Tractor. Messick Equipment and Outdoor Power - New Holland - Kubota - Case IH - Parts, Sales & Service The 2x3 (Part 3562) bracket fits the ROPS.

Today I found some ATV light applications today that are 35 watts that might work well also with a built in switch . KC High Lites ATV 5x7 flood 35 watt 2.9 amps each. May be a little to large???? KC HiLiTES: Auxiliary Lighting, HID Off Road Lights, Fog Lights, Driving Lights, Light Bars, Wiring Accessories

What upgade did you do for the front lights from the OEM?

 

[LBrown59]

I have found two sets of lights to add to my BX2230 ROPS.

1. 3x5 35 watt 2 amp each

2. 3x5 or 4x6 55 watt 4 amp each with built in switch

The dealer says 1 is OK for the Dyno - 2 is pushing it. They DYNO is good for 10 amps.

I like the ones with built in switches. It may be too much amps for the DYNO.

Any one got a switch or wiring schmetic for the other if I wire direct to the wire under the seat ?

Or can I run 8 amps on the DYNO??
TXS
LPP

The bx 2230 has a 15 Amp Alt.you should be able to put 3 55 w lites on it.

 

[Sully2]

The bx 2230 has a 15 Amp Alt.you should be able to put 3 55 w lites on it.

But if you do..you'll have "point squat" battery charging going on! And both the BX and the B's dont have much cranking amps to start with!

 

[MadReferee]

The bx 2230 has a 15 Amp Alt.you should be able to put 3 55 w lites on it.

The BX2230 has a 14.5 amp dynamo (aka generator) with an external voltage regulator as standard equipment just like all the other B and BX series Kubota tractors.

 

[_RaT_]

The BX2230 has a 14.5 amp dynamo (aka generator) with an external voltage regulator as standard equipment just like all the other B and BX series Kubota tractors.

Are you sure? I suspect it has a alternator, not a generator.

 

[Sully2]

Are you sure? I suspect it has a alternator, not a generator.

The "standard" setup for a B or a BX WITHOUT a cab..is that puny 14 (15?) amp dynamo. Had I personally have known that..Id have odered mine with the alternator on it..as it is I had to purchase the alternator this past week...waiting on its arrival now...

 

[Volfandt]

The BX23 WSM indicates that the dynamo should put out between 14 - 15 amps when under full electrical load.

The main component of the dynamo is a stator, which is a part normally associated with an alternator. Generators utilize armatures and field windings.
The schematic of the regulator shows a full bridge rectifier and isolation diodes which are also components that are normally associated with a regulator/rectifier and alternator charging assembly.

With all that , I would say that the dynamo produces AC voltage which is then rectified to DC voltage and regulated to put out between 14 - 15 amps @ 14 to 15 VDC.

 

[_RaT_]

The "standard" setup for a B or a BX WITHOUT a cab..is that puny 14 (15?) amp dynamo. Had I personally have known that..Id have odered mine with the alternator on it..as it is I had to purchase the alternator this past week...waiting on its arrival now...

Good information to know. I was thinking a invertor would come in handy for light 120V use. I think I would opt for a bit more output as well. I suspect the battery on the BX is a sub compact as well.

 

[Sully2]

Good information to know. I was thinking a invertor would come in handy for light 120V use. I think I would opt for a bit more output as well. I suspect the battery on the BX is a sub compact as well.

Dont know about a BX battery...but on the B models its nothing to write home about. Of course ya dont have to worry about "tune-ups" etc..and not getting the rig started..but there just isnt any "lee-way" if a person starts adding stuff.

 

[yellow_tang]

why not add some HIDS and call it a day.

 

[BlackforestBill]

One thing to consider when using the plugs under the seat to add lights, that 20 amp fuse also covers the stator. Blow it and the tractor dies immediately. Take care what you add to the circuit, pay attention to what's on when you pop the fuse, and replace the extra 20 in the fuse box as soon as you can. Don't ask...

I'll be mod'ing my set up this summer to move the lights to their own circuit utilizing one of the 2 empty slots in the fuse block.

 

[Volfandt]

That 20amp fuse on the the BX23/BX2230 also supplies power to the shutoff solenoid. Blowing that fuse on those models will disable the key shutoff, meaning the tractors won't shutdown via the key. You either have to replace the fuse (and hope it doesn't blow again) or use the manual shutoff lever located on the fuel pump to shut down.

I ran my ROPS lights off of the OEM light switch on the dash and it's worked fine for 2 yrs. I also fused it separate so the light circuit & fuse I added would blow before the tractors light fuse would. Just added protection.
I didn't want to use that power lead under the seat, too much can go wrong.....

 

[_RaT_]

That 20amp fuse on the the BX23/BX2230 also supplies power to the shutoff solenoid. Blowing that fuse on those models will disable the key shutoff, meaning the tractors won't shutdown via the key. You either have to replace the fuse (and hope it doesn't blow again) or use the manual shutoff lever located on the fuel pump to shut down.

I ran my ROPS lights off of the OEM light switch on the dash and it's worked fine for 2 yrs. I also fused it separate so the light circuit & fuse I added would blow before the tractors light fuse would. Just added protection.
I didn't want to use that power lead under the seat, too much can go wrong.....

I thought most fuel pump fuel solenoids were held open when energized and shut the fuel supply off when de-energized.

 

[Volfandt]

I thought most fuel pump fuel solenoids were held open when energized and shut the fuel supply off when de-energized.

It is, plus more. The solenoid uses a separate pull-in circuit and hold circuit.
I haven't fully researched the workings of this circuit since I haven't had to but it's fairly complex in that it uses a timer relay to control the solenoid.
But in the electrical troubleshooting section of the BX23's WSM the 1st step in determining a "engine won't shut off when the key is turned off" trouble is to check and replace the blown 20amp fuse. 2nd step is to check the harness between the switch and stop solenoid.

Over the course of several yrs here there have been numerous posts of folks that have inadvertantly blown that 20 amp fuse by wireing their ROPS lights into that "hot" connector under the seat that is fused by that 20amp fuse. 99% of the time their light circuit blew that 20 amp fuse and they couldn't shut the engine down via the key until they replaced the blown fuse.

The electrical system on the BX23 is surprisingly complicated for a diesel powered tractor but I figure it's because like everything else, it gets complicated when one trys to idiot proof it

 

[_RaT_]

It is, plus more. The solenoid uses a separate pull-in circuit and hold circuit.
I haven't fully researched the workings of this circuit since I haven't had to but it's fairly complex in that it uses a timer relay to control the solenoid.
But in the electrical troubleshooting section of the BX23's WSM the 1st step in determining a "engine won't shut off when the key is turned off" trouble is to check and replace the blown 20amp fuse. 2nd step is to check the harness between the switch and stop solenoid.

Over the course of several yrs here there have been numerous posts of folks that have inadvertantly blown that 20 amp fuse by wireing their ROPS lights into that "hot" connector under the seat that is fused by that 20amp fuse. 99% of the time their light circuit blew that 20 amp fuse and they couldn't shut the engine down via the key until they replaced the blown fuse.

The electrical system on the BX23 is surprisingly complicated for a diesel powered tractor but I figure it's because like everything else, it gets complicated when one trys to idiot proof it

Thanks, I figured you would have a good explanation...