BX1850 or BX2350

/ BX1850 or BX2350 #1  

klrobert

Silver Member
Joined
May 3, 2008
Messages
106
Location
Cullman, AL
Tractor
Kubota BX2350
This is my first post on this forum, although I have been lurking here for quite a while. I am getting ready to purchase my first sub-compact and am looking at the BX1850 and the BX2350. I need to be able to pull a small (12") single-bottom moldboard plow. My question is, will the 1850 with loaded turf tires pull this? The dealer thinks it will, but I want to get some advice from someone that has one. The problem is, the R4 tires are not available on the 1850. I think I may need to go ahead and get the 2350 with R4 tires, although it is about $1100 more. I have never heard anyone say 'my tractor has too much horsepower'. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #2  
I am in the same boat as you, But if you are going to be using yard tractor with occasional use of a loader and other implements than get the 1850, but if you are going to use the loader and other implements quite a bit than I would step up to the 2350. Thats what I plan to do. I know the 1850 can do the job I need, I have borrowed my nieghbors bx1500 several times, and it has done almost everything I have needed it to. The tractors are nearly the same size, but the the extra power will be a pleasant bonus
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #3  
Also depends what you are pulling the blade thru. The harder the job the better it will be to get the 2350 over the 1850. The BX series is mighty powerful and I've never wanted for more HP, just more weight, which can be added easier than HP.

If you do more MMM cutting (especially around obstacles) than blading and fel work, go with the 1850 (as long as you don't mind maxing out at a 54" MMM). 1850 is more maneurverable by a little bit. The 1850 also feels like it sits a little lower to the ground (stable) even though the height and ground clearance are the same as the 2350 and this is likley because of slightly smaller tires. If you plan on using the rear pto for chipping, brush hogging, snow blowing, go with the 2350 as it has significantly more pto hp.

If everything else (i.e. future tasks) was equal, it would be a no brainer.....to get more HP. But other points are important to consider too.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #4  
It does depend on what you're going to pull it through. My BX2200 with a subsoiler and a couple of hundred pounds of ballast loaded right on top of the subsoiler, is barely able to scratch through one inch of duripan (silica cemented hardpan) when I rip at full throttle in low range. A moldboard plow would do nothing in that. In sandy loam with little root matting you'd be o.k. What are your exact soil conditions?
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #5  
_ said:
1*My question is, will the 1850 with loaded turf tires pull this?
2*The problem is, the R4 tires are not available on the 1850.
3*The tractors are nearly the same size,
4*1850 is more maneuverable by a little bit.
5*The 1850 also feels like it sits a little lower to the ground (stable)
---------------


-------
1*I prefer BAR Tires for either tractor.
2*I'd druther have AGs.for both .
3*After climbing off my BX1500 My BX23 feels quite a bit larger than the BX1500.
4*My BX1500 feels quite a bit more nimble than my BX23.
5*The pucker factor is greater on my BX23 then it is on the BX1500.
I can go any where on my place and there is no pucker factor with my BX1500.
But there are places on my property that I won't take the BX23 on due to pucker factor.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #6  
I have an 1850 and when I was pricing them I justified the 1850 over the 2350 by the price and ability. How much more will a 2350 do? For the most part the tractor size is what is limiting it's ability not the hp. I just looked at it as for $1000-$1500 more I could get a few more hp or for a little more I could buy a bigger tractor. Which I wanted but could not justify after just buying a new house. I do plan to upgrade in the future. Just remember a little more $ will always buy you a little more tractor but where dose it stop?
Just my 2cents if your looking at the 2350 I would seriously look at the new BX2660 it sounds like a little better construction/metal panels, bigger engine block for a small premium over the 2350. See the new BX2660 thread.
 
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/ BX1850 or BX2350 #7  
What is the price of a BX1850, without a loader?
I'm looking at one just to use a smaller tiller on the back. Any ideas?
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #8  
If you price one at a dealer and don't/ won't need a loader, insist on them getting you a unit w/o the joystick control- it is much cheaper! I purchased my BX1850 from Emerich Sales in NY, they had one on the lot this way.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #9  
If you get the 1850 without the loader valve, you should save about $600. Keep in mind that, if you try to trade in or privately sell that tractor some day, the value will be affected, possibly by more than $600.

If you are going to use the 1850 strictly for mowing, you can keep the loader valve and remove the joy stick temporarily (until you decide to sell the tractor or get a loader).

If you're going to use the tractor for 3 point work only and you have no loader, you should consider some counter weight on the front (i.e. front weight bracket).
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Thanks for the replies, everyone. This type of info is just what I was needing, from people that have the tractors in question. My soil is mostly loam and shouldn't be that hard to plow. I think I will probably go with the 1850, as it will be used with a mmm and would be easier to maneuver. The $1100 I save will go a long way on the implements I need.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #11  
jinjimbob said:
What is the price of a BX1850, without a loader?
I'm looking at one just to use a smaller tiller on the back. Any ideas?
My dealer had them on sale a while back $6945 tractor only.
The MMM was extra 48'' $1450 or 54'' $1650.

I bought 2 BX1500s no mowers or attachments
Pd $6300 for the new one and $4525 for the used one.

Also got 0ne 60'' front blade $1500 rear 48''tiller $1100 and 48'' MMM.$1450.

I don't count the attachments as part of the price of the tractors because they can be used on all 3 of my BXs.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #12  
bx24d said:
1*If you get the 1850 without the loader valve, you should save about $600. Keep in mind that, if you try to trade in or privately sell that tractor some day, the value will be affected, possibly by more than $600.

2*If you are going to use the 1850 strictly for mowing, you can keep the loader valve and remove the joy stick temporarily (until you decide to sell the tractor or get a loader).

3*If you're going to use the tractor for 3 point work only and you have no loader, you should consider some counter weight on the front (i.e. front weight bracket).

1*If you don't get a loader or front blade there won't be any loader valve and joy stick.
This item is not a part of the tractor.
3*I don't have a loader or blade on the BX1500 but I do have a 48''mmm.
Would the mower help as a counter weight for 3 point attachments?
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #13  
hangnail said:
1*I am in the same boat as you, But if you are going to be using yard tractor with occasional use of a loader and other implements than get the 1850, but if you are going to use the loader and other implements quite a bit than I would step up to the 2350.

Thats what I plan to do. I know the 1850 can do the job I need,
*I have borrowed my nieghbors bx1500 several times,
*Like my BX23 the 2 BX1500s constantly amaze me as to what they can do.
1*I got all this covered with BX1500 and BX23.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #14  
ELMO67 said:
If you price one at a dealer and don't/ won't need a loader, insist on them getting you a unit w/o the joystick control- it is much cheaper! I purchased my BX1850 from Emerich Sales in NY,
***they had one on the lot this way.
***They should as a joystick is part a of a loader or front blade but isn't part of the tractor.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #15  
"1*If you don't get a loader or front blade there won't be any loader valve and joy stick."


My brand new BX-1850 I just bought has the front hydraulics and joystick but no front implement. The manual is for a BX-1850 with front valve and joystick. A different manual than the one for the BX-1850 w/o these items.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #16  
My understanding is that the joystick comes with the tractor, regardless of whether you have a front implement, unless you special order the tractor without it, in which case you can get the tractor with no joystick.

Don't know absolutely, but I have heard that a number of times.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #17  
LBrown59 said:
...isn't part of the tractor.
On the last generation, you had a choice. Most of the time, a 3-way (and stick, obviously) was simply mounted to the FEL and went away with the FEL. Some folks had the optional 4-way mounted to the tractor, but this was rare...I've never seen one.

On the current generation, the valve and stick is mounted to the tractor, not the FEL. You need to specifically DELETE the valve assembly from your tractor for a cost savings of ~$600, according to another thread. But then you'd need to add it back if you add any hydraulic implement to the tractor.

Personally, I would not consider purchasing one of these tractors without the valve. Simply too limiting in the future. And I suspect it would kill resale...even more so than if you simply didn't have a FEL...you don't even have the ABILITY to add a FEL without getting another very expensive item.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #18  
KeithInSpace said:
On the last generation, you had a choice. Most of the time, a 3-way (and stick, obviously) was simply mounted to the FEL and went away with the FEL. Some folks had the optional 4-way mounted to the tractor, but this was rare...I've never seen one.

On the current generation, the valve and stick is mounted to the tractor, not the FEL. You need to specifically DELETE the valve assembly from your tractor for a cost savings of ~$600, according to another thread. But then you'd need to add it back if you add any hydraulic implement to the tractor.

Personally, I would not consider purchasing one of these tractors without the valve. Simply too limiting in the future. And I suspect it would kill resale...even more so than if you simply didn't have a FEL...you don't even have the ABILITY to add a FEL without getting another very expensive item.

Here is how it worked on the 2 BX1500 tractors i purchased
The new one don't have the valve.
I didn't order it with a valve and have it deleted.
I just took it the way it came and that was with out the valve.

The used one had a 48'' MMM but no valve , loader , tiller or front blade.
I added a new 48'' tiller and a new 60'' hydraulic lift and angle front blade to it.
I have $1500 in the front blade which includes the cost of the valve and joy stick.
The joy stick and valve was part of the cost of the blade not the tractor.
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #19  
LBrown59 said:
...The joy stick and valve was part of the cost of the blade not the tractor.
My point exactly. Kubota has chosen to make the valve body and joystick intrinsic to every tractor, regardless of the attachment.

In OUR generation of tractor (last generation) the joystick and valve assembly generally came with the FEL, forcing you to get another valve assembly with a front blade, if you wanted it so equipped.

In the CURRENT generation, the valve body comes standard with every tractor so you can SAVE the ~$500 or whatever you paid for the joystick and valve body to accompany your front blade.

For my theory on the benefit to prove out, though, the price of a current generation blade attachment would have to be closer to $1,000 instead of the $1,500 you paid.

Right?
 
/ BX1850 or BX2350 #20  
KeithInSpace said:
My point exactly. Kubota has chosen to make the valve body and joystick intrinsic to every tractor, regardless of the attachment.

In OUR generation of tractor (last generation) the joystick and valve assembly generally came with the FEL, forcing you to get another valve assembly with a front blade, if you wanted it so equipped.

In the CURRENT generation, the valve body comes standard with every tractor so you can SAVE the ~$500 or whatever you paid for the joystick and valve body to accompany your front blade.

For my theory on the benefit to prove out, though, the price of a current generation blade attachment would have to be closer to $1,000 instead of the $1,500 you paid.
Right?
Right the valve and joy stick made up about $470 of the $1500.
I guess what it all boils down to is if you need the stick and valve and don't have it yer gonna pay about 500 bucks to get it .
Makes no difference what it comes on tractor or blade/loader.
 
 
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