BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open

   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #31  
As far as I can see - on the BX2350 at least - running with an open engine compartment will not sacrifice filtering or proper airflow over the radiator. The flow path appears to be well sealed all the way from the external screen to the radiator fan.

I've been on the fence over this issue. On the one hand, it's reasonable that the compartment may be engineered to control airflow for maximum cooling. On the other hand, it seems very restrictive. The air has to make a 90 degree turn and push out through the dense honeycomb side grills (skirting). It doesn't seem optimal.

I'm not convinced that the hood isn't just there for aesthetics. In the BX ad copy it says "The new slanted hood and rounded design offer improved visibility for the operator and a sleek upscale look you'll be proud to show off in your garden or yard." Open engine compartments aren't "upscale".
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #32  
As far as I can see - on the BX2350 at least - running with an open engine compartment will not sacrifice filtering or proper airflow over the radiator. The flow path appears to be well sealed all the way from the external screen to the radiator fan.

I've been on the fence over this issue. On the one hand, it's reasonable that the compartment may be engineered to control airflow for maximum cooling. On the other hand, it seems very restrictive. The air has to make a 90 degree turn and push out through the dense honeycomb side grills (skirting). It doesn't seem optimal.

I'm not convinced that the hood isn't just there for aesthetics. In the BX ad copy it says "The new slanted hood and rounded design offer improved visibility for the operator and a sleek upscale look you'll be proud to show off in your garden or yard." Open engine compartments aren't "upscale".

I would not be surprised if at some point in the heat after a long period of higher revs that the engine cooling system would have a harder time cooling things down - I guess my question would be if it is doing any harm to the motor running 20 degrees warmer than "normal". I know the hydraulic fluid breaks down faster at high temps so I guess the engine oil would do the same thing. Add a cab and some heater cores and they should be able to help with the extra heat in the summer ...

One thing I know for certain is that the copy writer for those ads are often clueless as to how things actually work and are simply going for dramatic effect. I like the shows Ice Road Truckers and the towing show Wrecked, but depending on how you look at things, they often either outright lie about specific dangers to make them more dramatic, or they simply don't know ... Either way, they are still fun to watch.
 

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   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #33  
If the BX's cooling system is kept clean and operating within it's designed specifications, it should run all day under load and not overheat.
In my personal experiences, FEL and/or BH work doesn't put anywhere near the load on my BX23's engine as finish mowing w/my 60" MMM does. Now the HST is a different story tho :D

I don't know whether or not the hood/engine compartment is designed to enhanse optimum cooling air flow/exhaust but considering the various environments the BX's are designed to work in, especially the TLB's, protection of the engine's moving parts has to rank very high in it's primary purpose.
Personally, to ensure that nothing can get into the fan/radiator from the topside, I wouldn't recommend working a BX TLB w/the hood open.
YUMV
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #34  
The OP did not mention what RPM he is running the engine. Run those little diesels wide open....get maximum radiator and hydro air flow through it. I've read many posts where people don't like to run them up to 3400 or higher RPM. These little engines are designed to run this way. These little diesels are really bullit proof. My diesel Cub Cadet (Kubota 15 HP engine) drives a 60" deck and has been overheated from a dirty radiator screen several times and my wife has ran it out of fuel :eek: at least 3 times. It just keeps on running. Proper oil changes and fuel filters of course.....I have over 800 hours on it and it's never had problems.

kj
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #35  
i'm going to fully disagree with that statement.

the tractor and cooling system are designed to fully and efficiently function with no forward movement, and the hood clsoed. opening the hood interupts the way air is moved around under the hood, and it will NOT cool properly.

if you ever see one of those portable tow-behind industrial air compressors, they specifically on them to operate with the doors closed, as it is designed to cool that way, even though it seems as opening the doors will help it. look at large stationary generators; totally enclosed and fucnction well.

Not good examples IMO. If you really work for a dealer than you should know the items you mentioned are designed around keeping the noise down in the unit(keep the doors closed). The cooling system was designed AFTER the noise consideration. Which keeping the thing cool is easier than the noise down.

Personally I don't think there is any specific design of the hood other than keeping the rain out. My L2500 has engine covers that come all the way down...what for? Probably #1 to keep brush out and look more orange! The older L185, L175. L285, etc had no engine covers on the side.

JMO.
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #36  
Digging up and old thread, but my 2350 almost always gets into the red when mowing during the texas summers.

I remove the lower skirt and the problem goes away. IMHO the skirt/cowling is very restricting.

As a side note, while changing the oil today, I broke one of the little tabs on the cowling where it fastens to the frame via the bolt. I hate plastic.

I really dislike the cowling.
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #37  
Digging up and old thread, but my 2350 almost always gets into the red when mowing during the texas summers.

I remove the lower skirt and the problem goes away. IMHO the skirt/cowling is very restricting.

As a side note, while changing the oil today, I broke one of the little tabs on the cowling where it fastens to the frame via the bolt. I hate plastic.

I really dislike the cowling.


On the 1850 the temp sensor is right next to the muffler (which is behind the grill). I shot my engine block with an IR thermometer when the needle was almost touching the red and the hottest point close to the exhaust manifold was 217 degrees. Not out of line. I covered the sensor and the part of the block with an insulation sock that are used in car engine compartments to protect electrical wiring/spark plug wiring, cut it appropriately and slipped it over the disconnected sender cable covering the top of the sensor and the part of the block the sensor is inserted into and reconnected the wire to the sender.

The temperature needle stays much further away from the red with just this little add-on. In short, I don't think the engine is actually overheating in the case of the 1850, it is just that the muffler is very, very hot and too close to the sensor making the gauge read higher than the actual temperature of the cooling liquid.
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #38  
I have a 2350 that routinely gets really close to the red line on the temp gauge when mowing my lawn.

I have tried everything, new thermostats, cleaning the radiator fins religiously with a compressor, blah blah blah. My local kubota shop says they can find no issues with the tractor..

I find that in the heat of the houston summer, if I remove the lower cowling, the tractor runs MUCH cooler. The lower cowling far too restrictive.

I think it actually has something to do with exposing the exhaust mainifold and muffler more than anything else.

I have been looking for an elegant hydraulic oil cooler or engine oil cooler setup.
 
   / BX-24 Cooling w/ hood open #39  
On the 1850 the temp sensor is right next to the muffler (which is behind the grill). I shot my engine block with an IR thermometer when the needle was almost touching the red and the hottest point close to the exhaust manifold was 217 degrees. Not out of line. I covered the sensor and the part of the block with an insulation sock that are used in car engine compartments to protect electrical wiring/spark plug wiring, cut it appropriately and slipped it over the disconnected sender cable covering the top of the sensor and the part of the block the sensor is inserted into and reconnected the wire to the sender.

The temperature needle stays much further away from the red with just this little add-on. In short, I don't think the engine is actually overheating in the case of the 1850, it is just that the muffler is very, very hot and too close to the sensor making the gauge read higher than the actual temperature of the cooling liquid.


I think you are onto something. I have suspected the same thing....
 

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