Grapple Buying a grapple

/ Buying a grapple #1  

Northstar9126

Bronze Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2004
Messages
73
All of the talk about grapples here has got me thinking that I have to have one. There is one on e-bay #180166726204 that has me interested. Price is right, even with shipping. Would anybody with grapple knowledge and a minute to spare please take a look and let me know what they think. I plan to use it to move brush and some smaller logs with my Deere 4300. Also I am curious as to how I should plumb it. I have the factory loader on the front end and a factory backhoe on the back. The hoe required what I believe was called a "power beyond kit". Would I have to tie into the hoe using another valve to operate the grapple? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
/ Buying a grapple #2  
Wow! I always thought the grapples were a lot more expensive. I just might have to buy one from this guy! Thanks for the link!!
 
/ Buying a grapple #3  
I just took a look and here are my thoughts.

It appears they have made this particular grapple with the skid steer in mind.
You would have to be certain that the measurements they give correspond with your bucket dimensions, or you might end up with a big under-bite, or big over-bite.

Also, just my opinion, the grapple, bracket and cylinder are the easy part of the entire grapple equation. If you already have front 3rd function hydraulic lines, and controls, then you would be way ahead of the game, if not, you need a way to power the grapple, a hydraulic source, a control valve, etc. etc. I fabricated my own grapple from ground up and the valve, controls, and hydraulics took more $$$ and time than the steel fabrication.

This particular grapple looks OK.
There are folks here that will probably steer you toward an Andy Tatro grapple, or a few other trusted suppliers. The reason is that there are enough folks who have dealt with Tatro and WR Long, that we all now know them as realiable, high quality, and good service and support. Not to say the one you found on Wbay isn't all of the above, but, you may want to see if anyone has had any dealings with them.

I still think that particular grapple may be deisgned around a skid-steer bucket.

If you have a skid steer, then that may be a good thing. :)
 
/ Buying a grapple #4  
This is VERY frequently talked about topic!

Key search words are:
grapple
4n1
diverter
remote

After you do some searching, I will gladly help you with any questions:D
 
/ Buying a grapple #5  
kennyd said:
This is VERY frequently talked about topic!

Key search words are:
grapple
4n1
diverter
remote

After you do some searching, I will gladly help you with any questions:D

I did some searching on this as I am very interested in this topic also, but I really didn't find much to answer my questions. Basically, I just want to get some rough ideas on pricing. Besides the grapple in the auction, what else would I need to attach this to my NH TC30, and how much should I expect to pay for it? Any help is appreciated. I tried to search, but my search-fu is weak.

Thanks,
Kris
 
/ Buying a grapple #6  
The grapple shown in the auction is meant to bolt or weld onto your bucket-most CUT buckets are to light duty to just bolt this on without welding gussets an reinforcing material to the top edge.
You can get various styles of these for $300-$1200, some have a long bar that actually bolt to the side of the bucket like the ATI version. But as stated already, getting these generics bolt-on models may not fit your bucket just right without modifying something, having welding equipment and skills to use it can be invaluable in getting one of these mounted.
Then there are the full grapples that replace your bucket, but if you do not have a Quick-Attach system these may not be a viable solution for you. Millonzi make the LD-48 that is a perfect fit for CUT's, and is priced at just under $1000.00.

As for making it work, there are basically two options:
1>Adding "rear remotes" to you machine. Usually an option from the manufacturer of your machine, and can be priced at about $500.00 or so. Then you run long hoses from the rear of the machine all the way to the FEL arms to connect to the cylinder on the grapple.

2>Adding a electric "diverter" to the FEL, when activated by a switch on the joystick it "diverts" hydraulic fluid from the dump/curl circuit to the grapple cylinder, effectively giving you a third remote on your FEL. There is also a "3rd Function" solenoid that may fit your machine, it's basically a electrically operated remote that is installed on the FEL that can control the grapple. WR Long make kits that are tractor specific that can be added to your tractor. They cost about $550 or so...
 
/ Buying a grapple #7  

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/ Buying a grapple #8  
It's a nice looking, well built set up, I know that you can get the finishing rake, but I like the grapple/rake like the AnBo or the W.R. Long. There are so many out there, and all of them are quality (for the most part) just some are better suited for different applications.
 
/ Buying a grapple #9  
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../87292d1192196083-buying-grapple-p5310052.jpg

Now THAT is a grapple! :D

I've used a grapple with a loader bucket, and it was very disappointing for working with trees and brush. It was very awkward to use, and almost as much trouble as it was worth. More practice may have changed my mind.
The grapple-bucket combo could have been handy for moving rocks and broken concrete, but I had none to try it on.

I've also used a grapple with forklift-style forks. That was 100% better. It was easy to move logs, poles, brush, lumber, and assorted larger junk. There were no bucket ends to get in the way, and the grapple securely held nice fat loads.

The true grapples as depicted in Westdorf's photos aren't quite as versatile as grapples in combination with forks, but are obviously superior for moving limbs, trees, and logs.
 
/ Buying a grapple #10  
have_blue said:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/attachments/87292d1192196083-buying-grapple-p5310052.jpg

Now THAT is a grapple! :D......
The true grapples as depicted in Westdorf's photos aren't quite as versatile as grapples in combination with forks, but are obviously superior for moving limbs, trees, and logs.

For a dedicated log moving device this looks fine but it would not be much use as a root grapple or for picking up slash and brush. Frankly I'd be surprised if CUT owners would be happy with it for general use but if all you are doing is moving logs it sure looks good for that.
 
/ Buying a grapple #11  
It works for a lot more than just logs. It is very precise, yet powerful. It will handle all types of debris, tubing, culverts, old equipment and more. It's just like adding fingers to the end of your loader. Take a look at photos. There are also units with hydraulic teeth and ones that will interchange between loaders and skid-steers.
 

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/ Buying a grapple #12  
Westendorf-RR said:
It works for a lot more than just logs. It is very precise, yet powerful. It will handle all types of debris, tubing, culverts, old equipment and more. It's just like adding fingers to the end of your loader. Take a look at photos. There are also units with hydraulic teeth and ones that will interchange between loaders and skid-steers.

Understood, but it is basically limited to lifting things that are long enough to have contact with both jaws unless you are lifting something quite light and can grab it with just one jaw. This type of "grapple" would not serve well in clearing brush from example. It doesn't have root teeth so it wouldn't rip out brush very effectively and it is unlikely to be very effective in holding a big pile of loose brush or slash together.

It is a nifty device and for someone who doesn't want to bother with the hassle and expense of adding hydraulics and who mostly just wants to move trees and logs around it would certainly serve well. I don't know what it costs but with capable grapples available for under $1000 a potential purchaser would need to think carefully about the limited nature of this type of grapple. Now, if the same principle was used but the space between the jaws was filled in with tines just like on a clamshell grapple, that would be more generally useful and would overcome a lot of the negatives.
 
/ Buying a grapple #13  
For the fine clean up, smaller twigs, teeth are available. They let the dirt drop through and not into the burn pile. It does hold even loose brush without the teeth as the bite is really solid. Teeth work independently of each other. I will admit there are probably some applications, like digging stumps or roots that would not be the best application. However it is reasonable, with prices ranging from $700 and up. It eliminates all the on and off the tractor and working with chains. You can view video of them in operation at Front-End Loaders by Westendorf: loader for tractor, shade canopy, wagons, manure & landscaping equipment..
 

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/ Buying a grapple #14  
Westendorf-RR said:
For the fine clean up, smaller twigs, teeth are available. They let the dirt drop through and not into the burn pile. It does hold even loose brush without the teeth as the bite is really solid. Teeth work independently of each other. I will admit there are probably some applications, like digging stumps or roots that would not be the best application. However it is reasonable, with prices ranging from $700 and up. It eliminates all the on and off the tractor and working with chains. You can view video of them in operation at Front-End Loaders by Westendorf: loader for tractor, shade canopy, wagons, manure & landscaping equipment..


The web page only list them with HP ratings and no weight is given for them. Weight is a big factor when using a compact utility tractor.
 
/ Buying a grapple #15  
I like the version with teeth. That looks like a very nice "no extra" hydraulics setup.
 
/ Buying a grapple #16  
The smaller compact tractor models - 140#
Med HP range (red smaller unit) 235#
and larger HP red unit is 320#

When you get rid of the bucket and it's added weight you move the load an extra 24" to 30" closer to the bottom pins on the loader which allows you to lift more. You can also "see" what you are grabbing without the bucket hindering your visibility.

The yellow units have hydraulic cylinders inside the teeth. These will require extra hydraulic ports at rear of tractor - these are between 300# & 400# depending if have teeth installed.
 

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/ Buying a grapple #17  
Westendorf-RR said:
The smaller compact tractor models - 140#
Med HP range (red smaller unit) 235#
and larger HP red unit is 320#

Are the smaller units compatable with the added teeth? That would make a very nice option for SCUT owners and those with FEL lift capacities of less than 800-900lbs.
 
/ Buying a grapple #18  
Currently the two smaller units don't have the quick-mount teeth option, this common request is currently under review.
 
/ Buying a grapple #19  
Westendorf-RR said:
Currently the two smaller units don't have the quick-mount teeth option, this common request is currently under review.

I think you would find a welcome market for a grapple device, capable of utility functions such as brush clean up, for SCUTs and small CUTs. Often times the owners of these smaller tractors don't want to deal with installing FEL hydraulics and don't have rear remotes installed. Those hydraulic issues are therefore a barrier to standard grapple purchase. IMHO, you'd be wise to make a "quickmount teeth" option available for those smaller units. I don't think your basic unit is really ideal for general utility grapple use (great for logs etc) but with the teeth option you'd have a competitive product.
 
/ Buying a grapple #20  
Deerlope said:
The web page only list them with HP ratings and no weight is given for them. Weight is a big factor when using a compact utility tractor.

Having prices would be helpful as well.
 
 
 
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