Bush Hog top link & quick hitch

[DaButcher]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

 

[radrock]

If you look at his pictures, the pin at the top of the cutter tower that the hitch assembly swings on is in a fixed position in regards to the lower 3pt arm pins. So if his QH top hook hooked on that pin it could not come unhooked because the vertical distance between that pin and the lower pins is always the same. For it to then come unhooked you would have to unlatch the QH and let the lowers come unhooked as well.

Then modify the two flatiron straps that go to the rear of the cutter and hinge them in the middle. This would allow the rear of the cutter to raise and lower with terrain changes without changing the dynamics between the QH and the cutter tower.

I got along without a QH on my CAT I tractor because I could usually wiggle the attachment around or physically roll the tractor a little forward or rearward to get hooked on. When I went to CAT II size, that option went away. So the QH became a closer friend.

Haven't been on HEF for awhile. Wanna go on there and discuss the latest EPA change coming. Interim Tier IV is just that,,,, interim. Deere and CAT will be building equipment that requires Urea by the end of the year........ Bummer......

Ok, I have the picture now. Along with some more coffee hahaha. You would have to make the flat iron longer than they are now as you would not get any free movement going over a hump. You would in a valley. I don't know how much you would need. Probably only an inch or a little more. I can see the problem with CAT II implements. Sometime a 6' box blade can be a little over bearing for me. I try to keep it on the level cause is it a lot easier.

I haven't seen much on HEF lately, I posted on there that our company is demoing a Volvo Grader. I have not been around it but have to go to the job site tomorrow. Our other blade operator is trying it out. Forman said they were getting a New Cat blade for sure and I think I may get it. I demo'd a 140M about 4-5 years ago. The 160 I run is getting pretty old and lots of hours. I think you run a deere don't you? I really wanted to demo a 662 GP but I don't see that happening. Oh well. I figure anything that is a tight blade would be rather nice. hahaha.

 

[ovrszd]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

Yep, I totally understand what you're trying to do. I've saw several cutter use a chain. Never hear of anyone having a problem with that solution. Although the thought of the chain somehow getting loose and wrapping itself in the PTO shaft always freaked me out.

Keep us posted on your progress and solution. Ya never know, ya might create something that everyone wants!!!! Kinda like Pat's Easy Change system. Just an ole country guy with an idea.

 

[radrock]

The mower did work fine without the QH, thought maybe there would be a mod to keep the float action and the quick hitch. I haven't given up yet on making it work. My small tractor shredder has a chain at the end of the flat bar that lifts it from the top link, so modifying the BH to similar may be an option.

I have an idea,,, How would it work if you attached a spring or bungee cord to keep it from bouncing out. I can see it would be easy to attach to the pin but not for sure where to attach the other end. I'm gonna go look at my mower for ideas

 

[radrock]

I have a top link pin that has a ring on the end of it and a linch pin on the other You could hook the end of the bungee on the ends of it and around as indicated and it should keep it from bouncing out. Just an idea...

 

[bcp]

Maybe this? Replace the top link with a chain section. Or make a top link from flat bars with a loose joint in the middle. Or use chain or jointed rear support bars.

Take the flex out of the hitch itself and put it someplace else.

Bruce

 

[dusty3030]

There is an adaptor you need. It replaces the top hook of your qh with an eye, it is for this problem. Search the forum and you will find it. I think it is less than $20 shipped from harbor freight.

 

[dusty3030]

Here is a picture of it.

 

[NICKB304]

Get rid of the flex link. Hook into the top pin with the QH hook and replace the bars that go from the top pin to the rear of the mower with chain. Do you have a rear remote with a float position? It would be an expensive but handy solution to get a hydraulic top link that you could put in the float position when traversing uneven terrain. Another option would be to get rid of the top pin A-frame all together and run a chain from the back of the mower to a pin in an unused hole in your QH top hook adjustment. How often do you need to pick the mower up? Could you run it only using the bottom pins and not worry about the top? That is how I use my old john deere #5 sickle mower, bottom pins only.


2012-08-09_17-25-50_557 by nickb304, on Flickr



2012-08-09_17-26-45_887 by nickb304, on Flickr

 

[DaButcher]

Thanks for all the suggestions! Solution is on hold for a while, just broke a blade on a stump. I'll probably try the top link adapter from HF or just mow without the QH for now. At some point I will make the QH work with the mower though, most likely a winter project.