Bush hog setup

[Greenvalleymatt]

Hey y'all, I'm running into an issue setting up my new to me John Deere 513 bush hog. Paid 675$ for it, get it home to fin banged up dull blades, gearbox dry, and the top link bars not fixed to the supports. Added some 00 grease, ground and sharpened blades, but the problem I'm having is figuring out the top link setup. I used my flux core welder to weld the links to the front supports, fairly straight up, but now I'm finding that with my top link adjusted almost all the way out the back of the tractor is way too high when I get the front set at the cutting height I want. I'm contemplating trying to find a longer top link bar, grinding the welds and redoing them with the plates facing forwards, or going ahead and moving lift arm points on the mower to the lower position and the rear support to the farthest back positions. What would y'all recommend?

 

[DK35vince]

The strap you welded (top link bars) are supposed to be free and able to pivot with the top link attached so the mower can follow the contour of the ground.
You need to cut your welds back off.

 

[Zebrafive]

Here's a drawing from parts. Note, there is a spacer too. Top link connects to key 3 and they should be free to pivot as stated in post#2

 

[Greenvalleymatt]

Here's a drawing from parts. Note, there is a spacer too. Top link connects to key 3 and they should be free to pivot as stated in post#2View attachment 698597

Ahh, ok, didn't realize, never had one like that, thanks for the info bud!

 

[Greenvalleymatt]

When I installed it that way I was having a hard time keeping the back wheel off the ground for transport, that's why I assumed it needed to be fixed. Should I go ahead and put the lift points lower and the reas supports further back you think? There are factory holes that I assume that's what it's for.

Here's a drawing from parts. Note, there is a spacer too. Top link connects to key 3 and they should be free to pivot as stated in post#2View attachment 698597

 

[repete]

Vince above is correct. This link is to allow the back to rise up on uneven ground without trying to lift the back of the tractor off the ground as your setup would attempt to do. The two hogs that I have have a solid piece of pipe (with a grease fitting) welded between the two straps.
Bolt #1 in Zebra's picture is not torqued down tight allowing the connection to swivel. I suggest a locking nut or a double nut be used to not allow the nut to back off. I do not understand why in the illustration the parts 3 and 4 are not welded together to force the pivot action to occur at part 4.

 

[Xfaxman]

You can also remove the toplink and use a chain:

 

[DK35vince]

Should I go ahead and put the lift points lower and the reas supports further back you think? There are factory holes that I assume that's what it's for.

You can.
It would help with your lift height

 

[dodge man]

You should have a shield on the pto shaft also, a safety thing.

 

[Greenvalleymatt]

Got it worked out, setting the pins and rear supports on the lower level did the trick, also put new pins and bolts cause why not, had to cut the old ones off. Time to mow!!!