bush hog help

[wolftree]

MitchellB,

Lots of luck with it.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Blades are worn, but useable. No more than I need to bush hog, I think I can use it and turn around and sell it to get my money back out of it and maybe a little more if I clean it up and paint it.

You may already know this, but in case you don't: bush-hog blades are not supposed to be sharp like lawnmower blades. Even new, they will have about a 1/8" or so dull edge. The intent of this is to shatter saplings and other woody plants instead of slicing them cleanly off.

If you're willing to fix up the tail-wheel and grind off the rust and paint it, you probably can get your money back out of it. Most folks, IMO, pay way more attention to the paint job than to any other part of the cutter, whether they realize it or not.

 

[MitchellB]

I ran across a thread somewhere that said the model 105 weights 480lbs new, so I think that will be OK for my little 8N. Not sure how old this Bush Hog is, but there is very little info on the net about that model. I been pricing new blades and I may just keep what I got for a while and see how it cuts. The guy had a new 8N adapter shaft over-run clutches he sold me for $45 OTD and that was the cheapest I’ve seen anywhere so I went ahead and got it. I’ve got the sway bars already here for the tractor, but should l use limiter chains on an 8N bush hog setup too, or will the sway bars be enough?

 

[kebo]

I think that will make a very serviceable BH for what you will have in it. It should do fine with corn grease in it too, if you don't want to bother with replacing the seal. Remember, you're only cutting 3/4 acre, that's about 30-40 minutes at most. It shouldn't even get too warm running for that short of time. As mentioned, BH's are usually run with dull blades because with much use, they won't stay sharp for very long anyway!!

I think you should add the sway (check) chains to keep the deck from having too much side to side movement. You can bend the sway bars if not careful, because there's not really much adjustment with them. With the right chains, and the proper adjustment linkage, you can adjust the sway to a very minimal amount.

 

[Soundguy]

that's about a 150$ mower.. max..

if you can get it near that.. go for it and scab a tail wheel on it.. and DO use the ORC..

ditto on sway prevention. I like the bars from the under axle mounts myself..

 

[DT86]

I've got one just like it, never knew what brand it was. Mine looks worse than that, the 3pt frame is so bent it trails "slightly" to one side but cuts like a new one. I too add grease instead of replacing the bottom seal.

It gets used to mow down small trees on the farm and the grass in the ditches along the road.

 

[RickB]

For $100-$150 if the gearbox turned smothly and I needed a R/C, I'd be all over it to maintain 3/4 acre with an 8N.
Not sure how you could go wrong.

 

[MitchellB]

Has anyone ever used a pump up tire and wheel for a tail wheel before? I know it may not be the best choice, but looks like "Horror" Freight has some on sale for about $6. I'd only have to build the assembly to hold it. I also noticed they had some 8" 450lb. solid caster wheels for about $15 bucks that I'd just have to weld a pipe or round stock axle to the top of it to fit in my Bush Hog swivel that might work for a quick fix for a while.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd use that solid rubber HF one. not much difference inthat and a laminated wheel for weight bearing.

lamintate wheel will wear better.. but with a mower in that shape.. who cares.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd use that solid rubber HF one. not much difference inthat and a laminated wheel for weight bearing.

lamintate wheel will wear better.. but with a mower in that shape.. who cares.