Built another plow with ssqa

[Rustyiron]

Finished this today. It has about 15 deg. of horizontal "swivel" built in for un even ground. The square bar that you see going from high on hitch side to low on the plow "A" frame telescopes about 6" so that the plow can either "float" as it would on a normal truck, or tilt the hitch forward to the end of this 6" stroke and apply down pressure for extra scraping. Rolling the hitch back towards the tractor, this will reach the other end of it's travel and is used for lifting off the ground. I'll paint the actual blade next spring when it's a little warmer for outside painting. That blade is a 9' Diamond with a cutting edge trip design. I bought it from the next town over for $225 and the angling cyls. and cutting edge were missing. The next "project" is frame mounting a Fisher 9'6 "Vee" to the tractor! Also from the same neighboring town.:thumbsup:

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

Nice work, you should be able to move a lot of snow with that.

 

[George2615]

Very nice build. I like your use of welding angle pieces for non-skid step cleats.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Like the float idea, does the inner tube just have a 6" slot cut in it? The valve where the hoses connect assuming that is your cross over relief, manufacturer?, where did you get it? Did you have to do anything with flow control? So that when you angle it doesn't fly from one side to the other, when angling.
thanks steve

 

[Rustyiron]

Yes to all. Surplus Center on the crossover valve. The cylinders only have a 1/4" port so that slows things down a bit and my machine also has a flow control valve on it.

 

[FatTire]

That looks great, having lateral float makes a big difference.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Been wrestling with how to do the hydraulics. With what I believe you have there the rod end is open to the atmosphere and one side just pushes the other side, which is how they do the angling on the pick up plows. Could it be done with a double acting cylinder or could we make those double acting. Its been my experience that the air going in and out of the rod end brings in moisture, eventually pushing the water into the hydraulic oil. On the pick ups I've had the water freeze and crack the cylinders after sitting over night. Steve

 

[Rustyiron]

Been wrestling with how to do the hydraulics. With what I believe you have there the rod end is open to the atmosphere and one side just pushes the other side, which is how they do the angling on the pick up plows. Could it be done with a double acting cylinder or could we make those double acting. Its been my experience that the air going in and out of the rod end brings in moisture, eventually pushing the water into the hydraulic oil. On the pick ups I've had the water freeze and crack the cylinders after sitting over night. Steve

In theory, both "sides" of the cyl. are sealed from each otherwise, you would have an oil leak. Those cylinders were only $70 each and were a simple replacement. You could fit a regular double acting cyl. but this might require some modifications to the attachment points. There is no need for 2 dbl acting cylinders, and this would be complicated on a SS with only a single circuit available typically.

 

[skyhook]

Very nicely done.:thumbsup:

 

[eddiebroadway]

Nice Work! Which Prince Valve is it? 500 to 1500psi or 1500 to 3000psi. I just put a Fisher 9.6 Stainless Extreme V on my Mahindra 6010 tractor. I have the pressure hoses going into A and C ports, the double acting cylinder ends hooked together on B and D ports as I only wanted it to V, straight, or scoop. It won't hold in straight, I know it's not the tractor as my other blade holds fine, I bought the higher pressure cushion valve, still the sides move by hand in straight but hold in scoop. The plow was beat pretty good by a contractor, thinking the cylinders are bypassing?

 

[eddiebroadway]

 

[eddiebroadway]

 

[Rustyiron]

Nice Eddie, I'm working on the same thing for my tractor, only frame mount, with the same blade as your's, just not stainless. I'm wondering about not using a bypass valve at all. I've been running a "store bought" SnoWolf on a big heavy skid steer that did not come with a b/p valve for about 8 years now with no trouble.
How about this rain!! If it were only about 20 deg. colder, we'd be pretty busy.:laughing:
Hey, Merry Christmas!

 

[busy dad]

I have seen a vent on single acting cylinder plumed to a well vented small oil tank ..It kept the cylinder rust free on a hoist..

 

[varmint]

Nice work! My situation is a bit different, with a HLA 1000 snow blade, but I am thinking I should install a crossover relief valve... without really knowing what I am doing, this one seems appropriate 1/2 NPT 30 GPM 1500-3000 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE
but I welcome advice!! Still waiting on snow here... the more preparation work I do, the less likely snow is.

 

[nybirdman]

Nice work! My situation is a bit different, with a HLA 1000 snow blade, but I am thinking I should install a crossover relief valve... without really knowing what I am doing, this one seems appropriate 1/2 NPT 30 GPM 1500-3000 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE
but I welcome advice!! Still waiting on snow here... the more preparation work I do, the less likely snow is.

I just added a cross over relief valve(from KennyD on this site) to my plow.I had been plowing with this set up for four years without a problem but blew a line on the tractor last time plowing.

 

[Rustyiron]

Nice work! My situation is a bit different, with a HLA 1000 snow blade, but I am thinking I should install a crossover relief valve... without really knowing what I am doing, this one seems appropriate 1/2 NPT 30 GPM 1500-3000 PSI HYD CUSHION VALVE
but I welcome advice!! Still waiting on snow here... the more preparation work I do, the less likely snow is.

Varmint that is the one I used, and like birdman, I have been plowing for years (with my other plow) without one, never blew a hose on the SS, but I did with it on the tractor. I don't think that it mattered, just must have been that hoses "time".