Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments

   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #1  

arkydog

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2002
Messages
364
Location
Arkansas
Tractor
kubota 3200hst loader and bh77 backhoe, allis chalmers 816 backhoe
Im in the process of designing and fabricating an attachment for my FEL so i can easily change my 2 front bucket sizes and make a ripper tooth to use in place of the bucket for the 32 hp tractor. I have looked and looked for 3/4" and 1" pins and sleeves that can be cut to length and welded into steel plate for the attachments. years ago when i built my first back hoe attachment i used nylon bushings for the pins. now i would like to get the steel sleeves to weld in the side plates that would correspond with the pins.

does anyone know where the steel sleeve (tubes) and pins can be purchased? Im talking like 1 inch solid pipe and 1.010 1/4 in. wall tube just as an example. i don't know what the tube size is, just so they would slide in and out of each other.

thanks for looking and any help would be appreciated!
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #2  
EBay has dealers for both the DOM tubing and the sleeve bearings that you need. I just
bought and installed some 25mm sleeve bearing replacements that wore out on my
backhoe attachment.

If you have a good local steel supplier, they should have DOM tubing as well.
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #3  
Tractor supply has bushings that are about 2" long and are for those pin sizes. I've used them many times, cut and welded in
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #4  
You need to make that ripper for the 3-point. You'll wreck the curl cylinders on your loader trying to push a ripper.
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#5  
i am going to make the ripper for the kubota backhoe to rip the tree roots before i dig out the trees. the front bucket i want to make it a fast attach to change different width FEL buckets. i guess i don't understand if i buy a one inch pin, what size DOM tubing to buy so pin can rotate or size DOM to buy and size of bushing?

is there some kind of formula to use to figure the tolerance need to for rotation inside each other?

thanks for the help. rob
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #6  
As one other responder mentioned you need DOM tubing. I looked and looked and could not find until someone mentioned DOM tubing. Once I used that as a search word I found just what I needed.
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #7  
"is there some kind of formula to use to figure the tolerance need to for rotation inside each other?"
When I have done this with DOM tubing I ask for 1" ID with whatever wall thickness you want (.o65, .125 or .250) the cold rolled solid bar can be had in 16th" increments, get 15/16" for inside the 1" DOM and use grease zerks wherever you can.
Depending on how long you need the bushings as I said, TSC has bushings about 2" long and in common sizes.Just an FYI, DOM is expensive!
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #8  
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #9  
I use a lot of DOM that is 1.000 ID, and .25" wall. Then I buy and use 25mm pins, which
often give me a grease clearance of 10-15 thousandths. Note that most DOM is undersized,
but if you do not have the clearance you want, or want to use 1" pins, ream them out.

This is minimum size for this app, IMO. 30mm or 1.25" is better, and quite common.
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #10  
My Case hoe uses 1-1/2" pins everywhere but the main hoe bucket pivot; Case parts wanted around $70 for ONE pin, so when I got the stuff to make new (and refurbish old) I bought a 6' length of 1-1/2" oil hardened rod from Enco and the 1-1/2" version of these

1 Shaft Coupler | Concentric International | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Kinda overkill for wall thickness, but when I finally get around tuit I plan on using that keyway and re-tapping the 2 set screw holes for zerks - I also cut a couple of the couplers into 3/4" thick donuts to beef up mounting holes.

Just another possible option... Steve
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #11  
My Case hoe uses 1-1/2" pins everywhere but the main hoe bucket pivot; Case parts wanted around $70 for ONE pin, so when I got the stuff to make new (and refurbish old) I bought a 6' length of 1-1/2" oil hardened rod from Enco and the 1-1/2" version of these

1 Shaft Coupler | Concentric International | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Kinda overkill for wall thickness, but when I finally get around tuit I plan on using that keyway and re-tapping the 2 set screw holes for zerks - I also cut a couple of the couplers into 3/4" thick donuts to beef up mounting holes.

Just another possible option... Steve

Oh, and when I actually GET that "tuit", I'll check fit and probably bore the couplings a few thou, they seemed pretty snug IIRC...
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#12  
morning all. i still don't get this. i know since my stroke i don't get it sometimes, and this must be the sometimes.

if i want to use a 1" pin for my pivot, what size dom or tube do i need to use so they will rotate inside each other smoothly and allow for grease. i will also be using 3/4 " pins. essentially the pins and tubing will be say 1" for both and won't fit inside each other or rotate. do i buy them and have either the pin turned down and how much or the dom or tube inside opened up.

i saw on this post where one of the tubes or dom inside demention was 1.125 which i think is one inch and an 1/8th. that would be i think 1/16 on each side of the 1" pin. isn't that too much clearance around. what should the dom inside dimensions be for the proper clearance on the inside, pin to dom size.

any help is greatly appreciated. rob
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #13  
DF Krug gave a workable plan in post #8 - find 1" ID DOM tube, and METRIC rod - 25mm = .03937" times 25, which works out to .98425 inches - so total clearance would be just over 15 thousandths. (on a calculator, 1 minus .98425 = .01575 )

I "cheat" this way with my mag drill too - sometimes a 1/2" hole and a 1/2" bolt makes things too tight to work, so a 13mm cutter (.03937 x 13) comes out to .51181" - ignore the last couple decimal places, you have a little over 11 thousandths clearance.

Once you ignore the irritation of figuring out what metric sizes are, they can come in handy - because the whole metric system is in multiples of 10, all you need to remember is that one METER = 39.37 INCHES - everything else is just moving the decimal point one direction or another.

Case in point - a millimeter is 1/1000 of a METER, so you move the decimal point 3 places LEFT on that 39.37 to get .03937 inches = 1 mm.

I hope this helps... Steve
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #14  
Oh, probably the easiest way to get where you wanna go might be to get both rod and sleeve in 1" size, then get a brake cylinder hone and run it thru the tubing a few times, check for fit, and stop just where you can BARELY feel a little wiggle.

I would then NOT grease those joints til you get it fabbed up and check - that way, you'd have an easier time honing a bit more if it's too snug. Otherwise, you'd need to hose the tubing out with a lot of carb cleaner for the hone to work again.

I don't think that'd work with the 3/4" tho, that's kind of small to fit any brake cylinder hone I've had... Steve
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#15  
bukitcase and everyone responded, thank you. now i understand, i couldn't wrap my brain around the idea. i really appreciate it for all your help. now i can get started my my 1" dom and my 25 mm rod to be ordered tuesday after the new year.

happy new year!
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #16  
Don't forget that when you weld your pivot DOM tubing in, there will always be
heat distortion that causes a bit of misalignment. I use a long hand reamer
in that case. One that spans both pivots.

25mm rod or 1.000" rod is common and cheap, but if you can not find the DOM
you need locally, there are many internet sellers who will send you a few small
chunks.
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments
  • Thread Starter
#17  
thanks everyone. i just acquired a tig welder and my neighbor is a good tig welder. i hope we can weld this without much distortion. welding 1/4" wall dom to 3/8" plate. we have a steel supply place in town and will check tuesday if they have or can get the needed steel. small town and small steel supplier....

thank you rob
 
   / Building Tractor-loader-bachhoe Attachments #19  
A good way to line up bushings is to use a shaft that will run through both bushings at the same time. They make blower shafts in 1 inch. Order a blower shaft long enough to span the distance of both bushing placements and stick it through them before welding. Tack the outside of each bushing 180 degrees then move 90 degrees and tack 180 degrees again before welding the perimeter to keep them from moving on you. Keep checking to make sure the shaft rotates and slides freely as you work.

Tubing is designated by outside diameter. You need to order tube in the size for the hole it is to be welded in. Then figure the wall thickness to get it down to the pin size you want. In other words if you have a 1-1/2" hole and a 1" pin you would order 1-1/2" DOM tube with a 1/4" wall.
 

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