Building Lake Corona

   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,161  
Yard stick is in. I'll check it over the next several days to see what the loss rate is. With temps in the low to mid 70s for highs this week I would think most loss will be due to seepage and not evaporation. At this point unless the yardstick is showing a lot of loss my plan is to work on stabilizing the hillsides and soil and getting cover to take hold to prevent erosion into the pond. After that hopefully verify enough increased watershed. If that goes well I will probably drain the pond and muck it out before letting it fill. Now would actually be a good time to muck it out I just worry about how much soil erosion is going to go into the pond before I can get some good cover growing. Also looking at my high waterline back toward the beginning of July before we hit this drought it looks like I have lost about 24 to 30" over the last 3 months so between a 1/4 to 1/3" per day.

Screenshot_20241014_164802_Gallery
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,162  
I can't even count how many times I've been to Home Depot in the last month, and I have never seen a yard stick there!!!!!
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,163  
I can't even count how many times I've been to Home Depot in the last month, and I have never seen a yard stick there!!!!!
A couple of employees had no clue either. I wondered around and found them in the paint department by the longer stir sticks.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,164  
A couple of employees had no clue either. I wondered around and found them in the paint department by the longer stir sticks.
Yeah, it took me years to find them. When I have asized employees lately, mostly they pull out their inventory gizmo and check on the web for the aisle and bin number. I've quit asking. Paraphrasing Johnson; Two kinds of knowledge, that which you know, and that which you know where to look up.

I hope that the pond fills better now; I do wonder about the extent to which tree roots will be water stealers.

Way back when, I remember reading that the local practice was to put straw down on the earth surface of new ponds to help stop leaks. It always stuck in memory because it wasn't obvious why it might work, and then again wasn't obvious why it might not help.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,165  
The temps are cooler but if your area is similar to western Illinois the humidity is low which will increase the evaporation.
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,166  
The temps are cooler but if your area is similar to western Illinois the humidity is low which will increase the evaporation.
I'll check this weekend and update where the water level is at. Problem is I really don't have a clue what an acceptable loss rate would be.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,167  
I'll check this weekend and update where the water level is at. Problem is I really don't have a clue what an acceptable loss rate would be.
County agent?

I think a bunch of factors can go into it, including how new the pond is, soil permeability, sun & wind exposure, local water table, drainage distance to trees, etc. Somebody who has experience with ponds in your local conditions probably has a much better idea.

Armchair quarterbacking from a long way away, I suspect you have a leakage to the trees or into the subsoil, but some of it may just be a new pond. Here, where the relative humidity is much lower, we don't see the same sort of losses that you are seeing. Local ranching methods are to make livestock ponds in small draws to carry cattle over through the dry season.

Have you thought of spreading some bentonite as a sealant?

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,168  
Checked the water level this evening. In 4 days I have lost exactly 7/8 of an inch so a little less than a quarter inch per day. Temps in the'70s and 2 days with lots of wind. Humidity in the low 20s so I know some of that is evaporation. Doesn't mean it's not leaking at higher water levels but that rate is consistant with what I've lost since July.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,169  
Probably too early to tell, but it's good to know what's happening. You'll figure out a pattern that's either natural, or not. Hope it's just evaporation.

I'm not monitoring my ponds right now, but we haven't had any rain in over a month and my ponds are both slowly going down. I'd be surprised if it was an inch a week, but temps have been in the 80's with a few days in the mid 90's
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,171  
I Googled pond evaporation rates and found 1 to 3 inches per week. There are lots variables involved but your loss rate seems within reason for evaporation rates.
If I have a leak I think it's minor or only showing when water levels are higher. Regardless I've been looking into some bentonite suppliers. The water is so low at the moment I'm considering emptying and mucking out, then going ahead and tilling in bentonite while the it's low and the weather pattern looks to be dry as far as the forecast can predict. No would be the perfect time to do it. If I do I'll probably put in a couple of retention areas and drainage where the highest watershed is going to be to catch some of the silt for future watershed. Also going to need to add another 20ft stick of 10" pvc if I do so I can take the muck off the backside of the dam and not cover my outlet.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,173  
...then going ahead and tilling in bentonite while the it's low and the weather pattern looks to be dry as far as the forecast can predict.
I was under the impression that bentonite is to be spread over the bottom and left to swell and fill the cracks as it filled with water. That's how my uncle did his pond. "We" (I helped him dig it and finish it) spread the bentonite to a thickness of about 1/4-1/2" and then light-sprayed it with fine mist water to keep the wind from blowing it away. He never did anything else that I know of.

Edit: The bentonite we get down here is like talcum powder fine.
 
Last edited:
   / Building Lake Corona #1,174  
My understanding of Bentonite is that it swells when it's wet, and when that happens, it seals up the looser soil that doesn't seal out water.

In order to get it to work, it needs to be mixed with the soil, over the entire pond.

The question is in how much do you apply, and how deep do you mix it?
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,175  
My understanding of Bentonite is that it swells when it's wet, and when that happens, it seals up the looser soil that doesn't seal out water.

In order to get it to work, it needs to be mixed with the soil, over the entire pond.

The question is in how much do you apply, and how deep do you mix it?
Everything I've read from some of the suppliers sites is that on a dry pond it should be tilled into the soil at a 4 to 6" depth.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,176  
I'm sure that working the bentonite in is a better way. I have read of a usage that spreads bentonite in the pond and allows the bentonite to be settle down and be sucked into the pores, sealing the pond. I have zero experience doing that.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,177  
The question is in how much do you apply, and how deep do you mix it?
Online calculator from lonestar minerals shows I would need 39,000 lbs so I would just order a full flatbed of their 3,000lb supersacks which would be 45,000 lbs. Supersacks are opened at the bottom then drive with the trackloader to spread. Could be tricky on the slopes.
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,178  
I'm sure that working the bentonite in is a better way. I have read of a usage that spreads bentonite in the pond and allows the bentonite to be settle down and be sucked into the pores, sealing the pond. I have zero experience doing that.

All the best,

Peter
I talked to a pond builder that warned me that bentonite rarely works. He was assuming I was using the above method on an already filled pond. He did not have much insite on the tilling method on a dry pond as he said he did not take any pond jobs where he felt soil was suspect.
 
   / Building Lake Corona #1,179  
Online calculator from lonestar minerals shows I would need 39,000 lbs so I would just order a full flatbed of their 3,000lb supersacks which would be 45,000 lbs. Supersacks are opened at the bottom then drive with the trackloader to spread. Could be tricky on the slopes.
I agree that a super sack on a slope would definitely be "tricky". Can you rent/make a super sack stand that would let you fill your bucket from the sack? I wouldn't want to be using a super sack on a slope for the tip over risks.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Building Lake Corona
  • Thread Starter
#1,180  
I agree that a super sack on a slope would definitely be "tricky". Can you rent/make a super sack stand that would let you fill your bucket from the sack? I wouldn't want to be using a super sack on a slope for the tip over risks.

All the best,

Peter
Friend of mine has a huge 96" bucket he uses for mulch. Holds 1.25 cubic yards. I would probably borrow it for spreading on the slopes.
 

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