Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[mjncad]

On the contrary, there are various manufacturers that make a flexible conduit such as Dr Dave describes. See http://www.carlonsales.com/pdfs/HDPE/HDPE_Brochure.pdf for Carlon's offerings.

Aaron Z

Carlon definitely makes a lot of neat products. I like the idea of the flexible conduit to minimize joints.

Any ideas on what to put on that 3/4" treated plywood going down the stairs?

In post #781, page 79, it looks like there is a concrete wall behind the PT plywood in the stairway. I would remove the plywood, clean up the concrete face and skim coat it.

The cheapest and easiest method would be to prime and paint the plywood. If you want a more finished look, then Sheetrock would blend in better with the rest of the garage; but it's not as durable. There are HDPE sheets used in barns and wash-down facilities that would be durable and easy to clean; but not cheap. You could always tile it with a generic white wall tile; but that may be over the top work and expense wise. Removing the plywood may be more hassle than it's worth, or it might come off pretty easy. Somehow I doubt it will be easy to remove as it wasn't removed with the rest of the forming for the wall and stairs.

 

[timster2]

Easier to see with the first coat of mud on the walls. I understand the ceiling, however, the walls don't seem to have enough screws in them.

 

[ljnelson109]

Easier to see with the first coat of mud on the walls. I understand the ceiling, however, the walls don't seem to have enough screws in them.
View attachment 313256

That fastener interval is very common these days with the use of glue. I believe the product is actually called DSA (drywall stud adhesive). Essentially liquid nails for drywall. Less nails on the surface mean less nail pops. My house has 54" wide sheets and only 3 nails per stud.

As someone previously mentioned, I suspect that there a bunch of tubes in the dumpster.

Lee

 

[pacerron]

Easier to see with the first coat of mud on the walls. I understand the ceiling, however, the walls don't seem to have enough screws in them.

You are right on the 4 ft wide sheets. One at the edge and then 16 and 32 and other edge. The row of sheets you illustrate have the top sheet cut down by a foot in width for the short upper cabinet boxing above them. That threw Peter off a bit the other day. He thought you were referring to every 16" along the length, which they would be with studs 16" on center.
In the other rooms they did only use 3 nails/screws in the 48" width where there should have been 4. Sometimes the quick and dirty guys only use 1 or 2 nails in an entire 4 x 12 sheet but put mastic/builder cement from a large caulk gun on some of the studs ( should be all studs ) A couple guys cutting and carrying plus a couple guys hanging can do an average rectangular room in minutes that way. I sure wouldn't trust it or do it but I'm not trying to make any money.
I see a lot of places where they missed their guess at where the studs were and there are 2-3 nail/screw clusters. That means a lot of the fasteners probably just caught the edge of a stud and split it since they didn't actually measure or use a level to get in the center of the studs. Let's hope they pulled the missed fasteners and didn't just mud over them!

 

[timster2]

Did you find the evidence, empty mastic cartridges, in the dumpster? Even on the cut down sheets I would have use more screws, however, I am not in a hurry or trying to make a living hanging drywall. Way back when I could shoot screws in the middle of a sheet without measuring but those days are long over. Now I measure and grab a level before I start shooting screws and still manage to miss a few.

 

[pclausen]

Why not just put sheetrock over it?

I suggested that to the builder, but he said it would mold from all the moisture there. It needs to be something moisture resistant. Green board sounds like a good solution. The treated plywood is very uneven, so just painting over it would not look very good.

timster, I see what you're saying now about the fastener spacing on the kitchen walls. Let me go look in the dumpster to see if I can spot a punch of those mastic cartridges.

 

[pclausen]

Never heard of a concrete vibrator referred to with that term. Yes, Peter and I are all too familiar with that tool. We used one fairly extensively when building a massive (and I do mean massive) concrete support for his telescope. I am sure Peter has some pictures of it somewhere, but to say it is big is an understatement. I am pretty sure it is larger and more sound than most bridge supports you see out there.
-Stu

Yes, that was quite the project!

The rebar in place: (yes, I started with a much thinner column that I had to knock back out as I did NOT use a vibrator)

Ready to pour

Here I am running the vibrator.

All done

 

[BuilderML]

In post #781, page 79, it looks like there is a concrete wall behind the PT plywood in the stairway. I would remove the plywood, clean up the concrete face and skim coat it.

I agree with Dave, I hate wood touching concrete on an interior application, I know I know its P.T. but if any moisture in the concrete the wood will wick it out. To bad a thin foam board wasn't install as a separation . I would not do drywall.

 

[pclausen]

I think there might be just dirt/stone behind that plywood at the bottom. Best case is that there will be concrete with a lot of voids. I think the best bet at this point is to plane down the high spots on the plywood to get is even, and then stick something moisture resistant over it and coat it with something.

 

[Scooter78]

If you are worried about Sheetrock wicking water and then causing mold I would use FRP or something like it. However since moister is a concern I would just wait a little while and let it wick as much water out of the concrete as it can. Then allow ply wood to air dry before I put anything over it. This might help cut down on mold concerns.