Building a road down to the river

[kevin37b]

Anytime you are in doubt , it is time to go to the house and think about it . Trees are different than dirt . Good luck .

 

[airbiscuit]

Got in some tractor time today and all went well. Goal of today was to pull/push trees along the route. I did reassess and change the route a but based on suggestions here for water control. I cleared a bunch of small trees. Got almost to the bottom. I pushed a 4 or so tree over instead of uprooting it snapped at the base. Its layed all the way over but still attached. Couldnt pull it nor push the stump out and its on the steep section so I stopped there for the day. I plan on going back Saturday and finish getting that tree up, get to the bottom then start with the box blade.

Take an ax to the roots!

 

[gersus]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Not much fun its probably what I'll have to do.

 

[MossRoad]

Pictures or it didn't happen.... :laughing:

 

[gersus]

Pictures or it didn't happen.... :laughing:

The pic taken from the tractor shows the reroute. Instead of going straight down the hill I went to the right and followed the slope around for a bit.

 

[airbiscuit]

Looks pretty good. You sure you want to tear that up with a box blade?

 

[tcreeley]

In Maine through boggy sections, people often build up the low section with trees on their sides going across the road. Then fill (gravel) is dumped on and smoothed over, They call these roads corduroy roads. Instead of digging down looking for a solid base, the idea is to build up to create a base. (No digging out a marsh! Cheaper than digging out and adding crushed rock, gravel. and sand. Many of the state highways started like this - and as they continue to sink- they add a foot of gravel on the old pavement and new pavement on top of that.)

When you get a tree that won't come out, I'd cut it flush with the ground. I'd use the box blade you mentioned and your fel to rough out your road. Figure out how you want the drainage to work - where the run off is going. Lower the ground by a foot on the sides of the road or ditch the sides. Then I'd put in any culverts you need. I figure a 20' wide road will give you the most access for the least cost. 10' will get your tractor across but you will hate driving your pickup on it with so little to spare on either side. Keep your turns/corners gradual and big.

After roughing out the road- I'd just add gravel - FEL work. Start at the top and work down.

In your slopes and drains - water likes to move. Give it a downhill slope to travel. Standing water soaks in. You don't want that. Give it a low spot to head to! (Using a transom comes in handy to check slope over a distance.)

Sounds fun. Remember - you are pleasing yourself, and no one else!

 

[MossRoad]

Looks pretty good. You sure you want to tear that up with a box blade?

Yeah, that's a good question. Why not just get the trees out of there and drive up and down a while and see how it packs down? The more you disturb the soil, the more likely it is to erode. Unless you have to cut down the slope, leave it go. The roots in the soil will help prevent any erosion.

 

[gersus]

Well, idk. I’m the new guy. Lol
Some of it definitely to get the right grade/slope etc but a fair amount of it I could probably not run the box blade over. The ground is not real soft. A little loose on top with scattered 6-12” rocks but pretty solid under that.
If its useful at all we had a dozer come in last winter and clear a road and clear a small cabin area and that ground is very hard. I havent graveled it yet and I can drive on it when the ground is wet without leaving ruts. He did a great job and only cost me $400! He also did the clearing that you see in the pic taken from the tractor. His dozer blew up though and hes now driving a truck. :/

 

[MossRoad]

I'd say try it with as little soil disturbing as possible first. Why do work that's not needed, especially if its just a trail for ocassional use?