Building a Pull-Type Road Grader

[Soundguy]

Think of an 'A' frame , laying flat... grader blad in the middle, and a tire at the end of the legs on the 'A'. the point of hte 'A' can attatch to your 11 hole drawbar using a clevis mount.. it will let it swivel up, down, right and left.. Mount the moldboard on a swivel cage, ( right to left) then design the whole cage to pivot on a kingpin, using a toplink ( or two ) to controll tilt. Perhaps instead of a toplink.. use a side link with gearbox and handle.

You couls save money and dismantly your 3pt rear bladed to provide half the parts.. .. all you would need is the 'A' frame and the pingpin pivot, and the handcrank/toplink.

good luck

Soundguy

 

[Taylortractornut]

If you have trouble with the back end wanting to slide away from your cut when the blade is angled you can use a steering axle out of an older combines and narrow it down. or just make one. I made one a few years ago for a 75 hp tractor that a customer had. I made a trailed grader, but when he made a big cut with the blade angeld it wanted to move the grader out of the cut. I took off the back wheels and went out to one of my trusty junked combines and took the steering axle out. I used a spare top link to adjust it at first then he got his hydraulic lines run to the back and we used the combines steering cylinder to run it. It also made it handy about turning into his smaller gates by counter steering the axle. And it also helped a great aboun in backing it.

 

[roadbuster35]

Bob in MN
A Kubota B2710 a six foot back blade and a good operator
(the good operator being the key ingredient) is all a person would need to maintain a half mile driveway.

 

[Darren]

I know Bushhog and probably others make a trailing wheel attachment that fits the heavier back blades to do exactly what you want. I'd look at the Bushhog site and maybe the Woods site for a picture.

Here's a link. http://www.bushhog.com/agtoc.html Look at the back blades, specifically the series 121 & 176.