Building a fence for the dog

[wvpolekat]

I will be building a fence for the dog once we finalize things at the new place.

The primary purpose of the fence will be to contain the dog (norwegian elkhound/german shepard) and to keep bears away from the dog (and vice versa), as well as contain the kidlets. The dog is not a real digger that I know of, but she has been kept on a run until this.

I have searched the forums here and read many threads on fencing, so I have a pretty good idea what I need to do there. I will be going with 60" welded wire fencing with wood corners and t posts inbetween.

I would like to bury the bottom 12" or so of the fence to prevent digging.

A trencher MAY be an option, but it would be a rental and I would rather buy something for the 2N that will do the job. I will probably be renting something to drive the t posts (skid steer?, excavator?).

What would be best for trenching to bury the fence? Middlebuster? Subsoiler?

What should I be looking at to drive the t posts? I am leaning towards a skid steer because I can get an auger for it to do the corners and use the bucket to sink the t posts. Is that reasonable? Or should I just pay some high school kids to drive them with one of the post drivers?

How do I deal with rocks when burying the fence? Just trim the bottom to fit over them and keep the top edge straight?

 

[kenstrac]

I used landscape timbers for post $2.98 each at Lowe's and put them 10ft apart c/l ,I then took the fencing and sandwiched it to the post with strapping with galv screws I cut the post to 5ft and attached a PT 2x4 and screwed that to the top I had about 100 pcs of 1/4 in steel rods that I bent a U on one end and drove them into the ground capturing the fence with the U to stop them from digging under this was a cost efficient way to do a fence since everything is screwed I can remove it for access to my septic system and the top rail prevents the dog from getting tangled up in fence.

 

[MMagis]

T-posts can be driven with a sledge hammer, or at most, a T-post driver. $30 at TSC.

 

[davey4000]

In lieu of burying the fence 12" you could save some money by attaching 24" wide chicken wire to the bottom of the welded wire fence with hog rings, lay it on the ground and cover it up slightly with dirt. You could pin it to the ground as well.

 

[wvpolekat]

T-posts can be driven with a sledge hammer, or at most, a T-post driver. $30 at TSC.

That sounds ALOT like manual labor. My shoulders are trashed enough.

 

[wvpolekat]

In lieu of burying the fence 12" you could save some money by attaching 24" wide chicken wire to the bottom of the welded wire fence with hog rings, lay it on the ground and cover it up slightly with dirt. You could pin it to the ground as well.

Good idea. I assume that grass will eventually grow over it.

 

[CurlyDave]

That sounds ALOT like manual labor. My shoulders are trashed enough.

Just get it started a few inches and "lean" on it with your FEL.

 

[wvpolekat]

Just get it started a few inches and "lean" on it with your FEL.

Except that I am lacking in FEL. I see a skid steer rental in my future to bore the holes and push the posts in. Although, last time I looked, the auger rental for the skid steer was as much as a 3pt PHD.

 

[kenstrac]

That's why I said to use landscape timbers I did all the work with a PHD and use the phd for planting and breaking the ground for larger holes when planting fruit trees.

 

[wvpolekat]

That's why I said to use landscape timbers I did all the work with a PHD and use the phd for planting and breaking the ground for larger holes when planting fruit trees.

Ah! I gotcha now. Excuse to buy a PHD!

 

[pat32rf]

You didn't mention how much fence was involved...20x20 or 200x10. We ran our fence wire then tied an extra 24" to the bottom, extending inwards and covered.
When the dog started to jump it (climb it actually) we added an electric fence "hot" wire to the top. Only took a couple of times to "train" the dog. Another wire on the outside (left turned on) should train any bears...I said "should" not "will"...
T bars aren't that bad to drive with a post pounder if you only have a dozen or so, and you can reposition should you hit a large rock. If the boss insists on a "perfect" fence (straight and symetrical) then you need a PHD and concrete

 

[wvpolekat]

Probably closer to 100x200. With it being 100 feet on two sides and 200 feet on one side with two 50 foot ones and the house to close the other 200 foot side.

Perfection isn't as important as functional. I am 99% sure we will hit rock and will have to deal with it. If they spacing varies a bit, that's ok.

I like the idea of attaching fencing inside instead of burying. That will save mucho work.

I will probably get a PHD for the N. May be slow going with it, but better than a shovel.

Although, today I did spot an older bobcat on the way home. I may stop and see what they want for it. Not sure if it would just be a money pit, but would sure be handy.

 

[radman1]

You didn't mention how much fence was involved...20x20 or 200x10. We ran our fence wire then tied an extra 24" to the bottom, extending inwards and covered.
When the dog started to jump it (climb it actually) we added an electric fence "hot" wire to the top. Only took a couple of times to "train" the dog. Another wire on the outside (left turned on) should train any bears...I said "should" not "will"...

This is what I have done with some dog runs in the past. The woven wire laid on the ground will stop them from digging next to the fence. The electric wire is only needed if they decide to climb. I prefer the battery operated fence chargers over the 120V electric fence chargers. The 120V can have a lot of bite!

Good idea about putting the electric wire on the outside - if needed.

 

[2manyrocks]

The T posts will be more solid in the ground if they are pounded or driven in rather than being put in a larger hole augered out with a PHD.

The corner posts are usually wood that would be augered with a PHD (manual or tractor driven).

I wasn't sure if you meant to use the less expensive welded wire or standard horse fencing. Welded wire isn't that sturdy for a larger dog, especially one prone to want out of the fence. A determined dog can rip welded wire fencing apart.

TSC sells a 120 v fence charger made for pet confinement.

 

[wvpolekat]

I am honestly torn on what fencing to use. She is not an overly agressive dog, and I don't think she will make any real effort to escape.

What I think I will do is go with welded and see what she does. If worse comes to worse, we can put her back on her run until we rethink the fence.

TSC is probably not the best place to buy fencing, but in looking at their prices, woven is significantly more expensive than welded. On the order of 2-3x as much. I don't think I can justify the cost. I will check with Southern States and see what they have.

I have pretty much abandoned t-posts in favor of PT wood posts. I think it will look better and I would rather auger holes than drive them.

I am REALLY reluctant to electrify the inside to start with. I will more than likely go ahead and do the outside to deter anything from coming in.

I do appreciate the suggestions, so please keep them coming. I don't want to make any huge mistakes here.

 

[MarkV]

May be different in different areas but here the landscape timber do not make good fence posts. They are not treated to the same level as other PT wood.

MarkV

 

[MMagis]

I would rather auger holes than drive them.

I suspect you may rethink that once you set a couple of posts. Driving a T post takes no more than 15-20 seconds and it's not all that hard. Setting a post in a hole is back breaking work if you want it tight, unless you go the concrete route. I don't know how much you plan to spend, but you you'd be looking at a lot of concrete.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I found a ton of dog fencing on Craigslist (prebuilt squares or rectangles). Might be worth a look in your hood... Stuffs really expensive...

 

[radman1]

I
I am REALLY reluctant to electrify the inside to start with. I will more than likely go ahead and do the outside to deter anything from coming in.

I do appreciate the suggestions, so please keep them coming. I don't want to make any huge mistakes here.

The electric wire was suggested as an option for keeping the dogs in. The electric wire would not go on the inside of the woven fence but instead at the top, above the woven wire. It would only have an effect if the dog was already climbing the fence. I train my dogs so they don't put their paws up or jump on anything - person, car, fence. I think my lab and german short hair would stay in a 2 foot high fence. If a dog learns to climb a fence, it is very difficult to stop them and retrain without constant observation. The electric wire could be easily at the top added later if needed.

 

[Carykong]

Before the massive effort to contain your dog from digging. fence your dog and see if the digging occurs based on my experience with fenced dogs,I have two females mix of hound/bulldog/lab that only dig if I do not give them their daily run. Free your dogs twice a day for a run and you may see minimal digging by your pets. good luck.